 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Joining 3 electrical cables - properly? |
 
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731   
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Hi chaps
Just looking for some electrical advice please - I need to re-wire a lighting harness with 2 cables joining onto 1. Normally I would just solder them side by side but the cables are 6mm2 (2.25mm diameter) and all three together are just too much for my biggest iron to do a tidy job. Are there any clever mechanical methods out there or is crimping my only other option. Bear in mind this connection will probably have to stand up to the elements... Any suggestions much appreciated 
Cheers Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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7th Jan 2014 8:14pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Cheers
Hmmm - I've used a blowtorch on go-kart battery cables (50mm2) before but they were huge (also lots of burning rubber). I've played with the mini-blowtorches in the past but all the ones I've had were crap - can you suggest a make? Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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7th Jan 2014 8:21pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092  
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A tinning iron will do it... one of those huge copper lumps that you heat up with a blowtorth, then use it to solder... they "hold" far more heat than a regular electrical iron can, and will do that size cable easily.
If it were me, i'd stagger the join. so, strip back say 2" of sheathing of the main cable, then "tin" it (load it with solder) Get the other two cables, strip the ends (half inch or so), tin them both Then join one side-by-side on the 2" of stripped cable, apply heat and a little more solder and the two will flow together. Then the second piece, side-by-side but an inch or so further up Cover well in insulating tape, then heat shrink on top of that. if it's going to be outside, maybe some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before you cover in tape. |
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7th Jan 2014 8:32pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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2.25 mm is not that much... A have a Weller 100 W soldering gun with different tips, that will do easily this diameter. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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7th Jan 2014 8:38pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Brilliant - thanks guys.
Jim - never heard of a tinning iron before (I just tin my wires before soldering) - clever solution to get lots of heat in the right place without torching everything - thanks for the detailed instructions 
VeeTee - my iron is also 100W but it just isn't up to the task - I know how it feels 
Should be able to do a neat job now and, once I've got it right, info to pass onto my sons (whether they like it or not) 
All hail Def2 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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7th Jan 2014 8:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Solder and heathshrink.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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7th Jan 2014 9:32pm |
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| deep down Member Since: 02 May 2012 Location: France Posts: 204  
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If you're using heatshrink use the glue lined type and rough the cable insulation up first with emery cloth.
This will allow the glue to bond better to the cable and make it more water proof. The other option is self amalgamating tape, again rough the cable insulation up first. Ideally a coating of Scothkote first but as it won't be submersed that often you'll be ok. If you can twist the cables together rather than just putting them next to each other, you'll have a better connection with less chance of a dry joint. |
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8th Jan 2014 12:26pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Brilliant - thanks.
I'll buy some new "gluey" heat-shrink and strip them a bit more than usual, twist them and try a tinning iron. Hopefully I'll get a good joint. to all Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jan 2014 12:46pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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a mechanical method? these things are fantastic |
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8th Jan 2014 1:49pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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I saw these on fleabay but thought there might be problems with water/dirt ingress and corrosion - they look really cool though
Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jan 2014 2:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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For good measure tightly wrap it with electrical tape too.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Jan 2014 3:34pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5707 
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I've used similar on house electrics, but would not use for this purpose personally. Can't compete with a good solder joint. Andy |
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8th Jan 2014 6:49pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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Buy one of these....
I gave up smoking years ago but I wouldn't be without mine. http://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-bla...ighter.htm  |
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8th Jan 2014 7:17pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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hmm,....
I was teached that soldered connections are a no-go in anything that moves and vibrates as the solder creates a lump and a pivot point for the individual wires in a flexible cable. This results in the wires breaking at the edge of the solder after exposure to vibrations. Confusing exists with tinned cable, where each individual wire is tinned. Tinned wire is more corrosion resistant (no black CU inside exposed wires after time) and also in the tin compressing and making a better contact area when clamped (screw connectors, crimping tools, etc) Yes I know real life etc etc i did see a lot of soldered connections although mostly repairs and not OEM connections. Secondly i started using the wago connectors some years ago and can't fail them. there is absolutely not one of them that gave me troubles. (have about 40pcs all over the car) For me, I'm not going back again to crimping or soldering and am using tinned wire where available. my 2 cents only |
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8th Jan 2014 8:20pm |
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