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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3750

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Any of the site sponsors can do a removable remap California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #257464 9th Aug 2013 10:32am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2774

United Kingdom 
TJ101 wrote:
Any of the site sponsors can do a removable remap


Any that are particularly good value/well received? BAS seem to be mentioned a lot.. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #257466 9th Aug 2013 10:39am
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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3750

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Bell Auto Services (Bas) http://bellautoservices.co.uk/

Alive Tuning http://www.alivetuning.com/

Rica http://www.rica-engineering.com/choosecar.aspx California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #257469 9th Aug 2013 10:48am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
I've had dealings with both BAS and Alive and both Pete and Gary have always offered top notch products and first rate customer service.

I've had no dealings with 'rica' at all so can't comment.


Last edited by Go Beyond on 9th Aug 2013 3:21pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #257470 9th Aug 2013 11:08am
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 810

 
The problem with plug in boxes is actually the same issue as you get with poor tuning...

All modern (i.e Puma, TDV6, TDV8) LR diesels use a torque based strategy...

In simple terms:

There is a base line fuel PW map, but fuelling is actually based around a torque demand map. Where by the ECU knows exactly what fuel, boost, injection timing, fuel rail pressure is needed to give the torque/power demanded by the driver (within the capability of the engine/standard calibration) - taking into account altitude, air intake temps etc etc.
There is a lot more to it than this – but this is the short version.

Gone are the days where to get more power from a diesel you simply increase PW (fuel) to get more fuel to get more power... and the resultant clouds of smoke.


A plug in box is a dumb device that doesn't look at what the vehicle is doing, what altitude, temperature etc etc - but simply adds additional fuel to give the sensation of power.

Typically this is done in three ways - increasing PW (which has problems), confusing the fuel rail sensor (making the ECU think it's lower than it actually is) or by changing the response of the coolant temperature sensor (as you get more fuel at lower temps)... or the tuning box will do a combination of the above.

Why's this so bad....

Well, increasing pulse width is very dangerous - it puts fuel in too late (as it adds additional fuel at the end of what the ECU is demanding) which will lead to un-burnt fuel and bore wash. It drives the injector drive too hard (which can damage the ECU) and a few other factors. (People remapping modern diesels that don’t know what they are doing also adjust PW wrongly!).

Playing with Fuel Rail pressure can kill fuel the pump (high pressure), can lead to a damaged fuel rail and takes components outside of their working range (and we are talking of high pressure – over 1200bar)

Frigging the coolant sensor leads to over fuelling and thus bore was as above.


All of the above are bad - and will be detrimental to the engine and engine life (especially with regards to bore wash – where the excess diesel injected at the wrong time washes the cylinder wall – removing all of the lubricating oil).

But my biggest concern is as mentioned above - it's a dumb box.

A modern engine has numerous conditions where the ECU will force de-rate (i.e limp home) to save damage to the engines and conditions. This could be over or under boost faults (I.e. a spit hose), overheating, injector faults etc.

The problem is that the plug in box will not see any of these conditions – and will keep adding fuel. So the engine is trying to de-rate – and the box is going Power, Power – we need more power. Result – one dead engine.

There are also safety considerations….

Have you ever tried left foot breaking a modern car? Or left foot braking an Auto to launch it off the mark?

The ECU calibration will typically allow you to do this for 30 seconds –and then will de-rate the engine. Why – because it thinks there is something wrong.

It thinks that there is a fault and the engine is running away (i.e. not being controlled by the throttle – so for example the throttle is stuck on). With a plug in box, again, if the engine starts to de-rate, the box its thinking – more, we need more – and still adds additional fuel – so will not allow the engine to go to its base fuelling level. This could be very dangerous in certain conditions – going downhill fully loaded for example.

In my opinion, back in the day you could get away with a plug in box – but diesel technology has advanced so quickly they are miles behind!!

And if you think they are bad now – lets consider the new 2.2 (or any modern diesel with a DPF).

When doing a ReGen you use the post fuelling to control the burn (modern diesels don’t inject fuel once per stroke as per antiquated diesels)…

So you have something that is operating at 800 degrees C in the engine bar – and it is being precisely controlled by the engine ECU. But the plug in box doesn’t know this…
And again – it will ramp the PW up further – suddenly you have a DPF that is not being controlled by the engine ECU and is getting very hot! This will lead to a thermal event.

I would love to see the plug in box companies taking responsibility for this!!

And LR isn’t stupid – plug in boxes will leave traces – these will not be picked up by a dealer – but for example if a new engine is needed under warranty, LR themselves will investigate further.


One thing I don’t understand is that people are happy to spend £20,000 plus on a vehicle and then think they are getting a bargain when they see a tuning box for £100 (or in fact a remap for £150).

Land Rover spend millions developing engine calibrations, but done properly there are improvements that can be done safely. But these improvements need to be tested thoroughly, and not just guessed at. Take 2.4 tuning, I have spent over 350 hours on a vehicle dyno alone, excluding all of the other road based testing including driveability. This is the reason why I charge £495 + vat for a new calibration – because I need to get my investment back and because without this level of testing I will not put my name to my work.

Also - as as side note:

As a side note - I would take actual figures from plug in boxes with a pinch of salt.

If we consider that a calibration is torque based - that also means the max torque (and power) the engine is able to make is limited by the ECU/Calbration. If the engine ECU calculates that the the engine is making more power than it should do, it will actually start to back off fuelling and boost etc to reduce power.

So any gain from a plug in box will be short lived, as the ECU will detect it as a 'fault' and power will be reduced. This means you will get a very 'spikey' power delivery if you actually looked at the trace on a vehicle dyno. This isn't just plug in boxes though - a lot of 'tuners' fall into the same trap.

They quote some impressive figures - but that actually only very short lived over a few BHP - before the ECU calibration kicks in and back everything off.

[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]

The red is a 'tuned' Defender - the green is my base IRB410 sport calibration.
As you can see the red spikes - and then the ECU see it as outside it's 'limits' and trys to control... resulting in surging and poor driveabilty.


All of the above is just my opinion…


Also, I'm not a fan or swapping calibrations (i.e standard and tuned) without redoing pump and pilot injection learn - and making sure everything is set up correctly - but sometimes this is unavoidable due to location.



Ian

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

www.IRBdevelopments.com

www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments

www.integrated316.com

www.facebook.com/integrated316


Last edited by Porny on 9th Aug 2013 2:08pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #257524 9th Aug 2013 1:34pm
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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3750

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
TJ101 wrote:
Bell Auto Services (Bas) http://bellautoservices.co.uk/

Alive Tuning http://www.alivetuning.com/

Rica http://www.rica-engineering.com/choosecar.aspx


Opps I forgot another good guy

IRB (Porney) http://www.irbdevelopments.com/home.html



Says it how it is Bow down California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #257527 9th Aug 2013 1:48pm
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pjb



Member Since: 08 Apr 2009
Location: Sunny Oxford
Posts: 1244

Porny wrote:
The problem with plug in boxes is actually the same issue as you get with poor tuning...

All modern (i.e Puma, TDV6, TDV8) LR diesels use a torque based strategy...

In simple terms:

There is a base line fuel PW map, but fuelling is actually based around a torque demand map. Where by the ECU knows exactly what fuel, boost, injection timing, fuel rail pressure is needed to give the torque/power demanded by the driver (within the capability of the engine/standard calibration) - taking into account altitude, air intake temps etc etc.
There is a lot more to it than this – but this is the short version.

Gone are the days where to get more power from a diesel you simply increase PW (fuel) to get more fuel to get more power... and the resultant clouds of smoke.


A plug in box is a dumb device that doesn't look at what the vehicle is doing, what altitude, temperature etc etc - but simply adds additional fuel to give the sensation of power.

Typically this is done in three ways - increasing PW (which has problems), confusing the fuel rail sensor (making the ECU think it's lower than it actually is) or by changing the response of the coolant temperature sensor (as you get more fuel at lower temps)... or the tuning box will do a combination of the above.

Why's this so bad....

Well, increasing pulse width is very dangerous - it puts fuel in too late (as it adds additional fuel at the end of what the ECU is demanding) which will lead to un-burnt fuel and bore wash. It drives the injector drive too hard (which can damage the ECU) and a few other factors. (People remapping modern diesels that don’t know what they are doing also adjust PW wrongly!).

Playing with Fuel Rail pressure can kill fuel the pump (high pressure), can lead to a damaged fuel rail and takes components outside of their working range (and we are talking of high pressure – over 1200bar)

Frigging the coolant sensor leads to over fuelling and thus bore was as above.


All of the above are bad - and will be detrimental to the engine and engine life (especially with regards to bore wash – where the excess diesel injected at the wrong time washes the cylinder wall – removing all of the lubricating oil).

But my biggest concern is as mentioned above - it's a dumb box.

A modern engine has numerous conditions where the ECU will force de-rate (i.e limp home) to save damage to the engines and conditions. This could be over or under boost faults (I.e. a spit hose), overheating, injector faults etc.

The problem is that the plug in box will not see any of these conditions – and will keep adding fuel. So the engine is trying to de-rate – and the box is going Power, Power – we need more power. Result – one dead engine.

There are also safety considerations….

Have you ever tried left foot breaking a modern car? Or left foot braking an Auto to launch it off the mark?

The ECU calibration will typically allow you to do this for 30 seconds –and then will de-rate the engine. Why – because it thinks there is something wrong.

It thinks that there is a fault and the engine is running away (i.e. not being controlled by the throttle – so for example the throttle is stuck on). With a plug in box, again, if the engine starts to de-rate, the box its thinking – more, we need more – and still adds additional fuel – so will not allow the engine to go to its base fuelling level. This could be very dangerous in certain conditions – going downhill fully loaded for example.

In my opinion, back in the day you could get away with a plug in box – but diesel technology has advanced so quickly they are miles behind!!

And if you think they are bad now – lets consider the new 2.2 (or any modern diesel with a DPF).

When doing a ReGen you use the post fuelling to control the burn (modern diesels don’t inject fuel once per stroke as per antiquated diesels)…

So you have something that is operating at 800 degrees C in the engine bar – and it is being precisely controlled by the engine ECU. But the plug in box doesn’t know this…
And again – it will ramp the PW up further – suddenly you have a DPF that is not being controlled by the engine ECU and is getting very hot! This will lead to a thermal event.

I would love to see the plug in box companies taking responsibility for this!!

And LR isn’t stupid – plug in boxes will leave traces – these will not be picked up by a dealer – but for example if a new engine is needed under warranty, LR themselves will investigate further.


One thing I don’t understand is that people are happy to spend £20,000 plus on a vehicle and then think they are getting a bargain when they see a tuning box for £100 (or in fact a remap for £150).

Land Rover spend millions developing engine calibrations, but done properly there are improvements that can be done safely. But these improvements need to be tested thoroughly, and not just guessed at. Take 2.4 tuning, I have spent over 350 hours on a vehicle dyno alone, excluding all of the other road based testing including driveability. This is the reason why I charge £495 + vat for a new calibration – because I need to get my investment back and because without this level of testing I will not put my name to my work.


This is just my opinion….

Also, I'm not a fan or swapping calibrations (i.e standard and tuned) without redoing pump and pilot injection learn - and making sure everything is set up correctly - but sometimes this is unavoidable due to location.



Ian


great write up the the mechanically inept - me Whistle 2020 P300 HSE
Post #257529 9th Aug 2013 2:08pm
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smb



Member Since: 15 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1232

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hi David,

I understand where you are coming from....in the sense that there are 1000's of these 'boxes' sold every year by 'reputable' companies with no "known" problems.

However, how many poor unsuspecting people have bought them and are not members of forums like Def2 that give you the truth behind them. The problem is that a lot of cars that have these boxes fitted don't do the mileage or have to take the stresses a Four Wheel Drive vehicle puts on the engine whether just carrying a person or 5-7 loaded up with a 3500kg trailer, etc, etc.....

Another point is that these vehicles are generally not kept by the same owner for the length of time a Defender is. At some point down the line it is almost guaranteed you will experience one of the following...Burnt Out Valves, Valve Seats, Piston Rings, Pistons, cracked liners, etc..... it is just that if you change your car every 2-3 years it probably wont be you that experiences it.

As the tuners on here have mentioned, there is a lot more to re-mapping than just adding a box. Plus, they will tell you the trouble they have to go to to work out all the parameters and signals from various sensors. Things that a "off the shelf" box of tricks cannot do

10 yrs ago I made the same mistake with a Mercedes ML 270CDI. The box or chip was from a well known company which still sells today. Yes, the performance improved(from what I could feel), but that vehicle ended up costing me dearly and all the problems were engine related. In the end it was when a piston went through the side of the engine whilst accelerating on the M40 that made me realise what a mistake I had made. I had the engine analysed by a troubleshooting company for Mercedes and their findings were horrific to say the least. I had to scrap the vehicle in the end as the repair was more than the vehicle was worth.

The problem with these companies that make or sell these cheap boxes are usually they are high profile companies who have very good legal teams and will deny responsibility as to be found out would cripple them.

I know it's a bit long winded, but take note from someone who was stupid enough to go down this route. Plus, as Ian said why spend £ 20,000+ to then be economical on the tuning.
Post #257535 9th Aug 2013 2:42pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2774

United Kingdom 
Very good points everyone! I will strongly consider ditching the box in favour of a proper remap.

What's the point in asking for advice if you ignore it, eh?!

Has anyone had any 'removable' remaps be spotted by dealers? I assume they wouldn't be but really can't afford to have my warranty voided! Although I don't think they're too picky (they don't even check service history etc at my garage) Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #257646 9th Aug 2013 11:14pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3792

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Porny...Brilliant post. Thank You.
Could you give a brief run down on what you do to a 2.2 Puma with respect to tuning.
Do you change intercoolers etc? What power & torque do you achieve?
I suppose the other thing about "tunes" that I've always thought about is the extra "strain" put upon items like crank, rods & pistons etc?
Cheers, Pickles.
Post #257648 9th Aug 2013 11:18pm
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 810

 
davidwhittaker wrote:
Very good points everyone! I will strongly consider ditching the box in favour of a proper remap.

What's the point in asking for advice if you ignore it, eh?!

Has anyone had any 'removable' remaps be spotted by dealers? I assume they wouldn't be but really can't afford to have my warranty voided! Although I don't think they're too picky (they don't even check service history etc at my garage)


A proper remap/calibration change done properly can do lots of things a plug in box cannot. For example I reblend the throttle pedal maps to improve drivability, adjust torque limits to give better progression and a host of other factors... there is no way a box can do that... so in theory you will see a massive difference!

In all honesty, a dealer can not spot a remap with the tools they have... file identification stays the same. The only way they can tell is by the way it drives... and from my experience most dealer 'fitters' wouldn't even notice.

I'm not a fan of switching maps as there are certain things that should be set up when ever change the calibration and you can not do this with box.... others will probably diagree with this.

Ian IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

www.IRBdevelopments.com

www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments

www.integrated316.com

www.facebook.com/integrated316
Post #257728 10th Aug 2013 2:16pm
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 810

 
Pickles wrote:
Porny...Brilliant post. Thank You.
Could you give a brief run down on what you do to a 2.2 Puma with respect to tuning.
Do you change intercoolers etc? What power & torque do you achieve?
I suppose the other thing about "tunes" that I've always thought about is the extra "strain" put upon items like crank, rods & pistons etc?
Cheers, Pickles.


The honest answer is that I havent had much time lately to do more development work on the 2.2, and I'm still trying to get my interface finished to allow reliable reflashing of the ECU without opening it. I do have new exhaust that will be available soon.

We have had one of our development 2.2's running at 150bhp and 460Nm without any effort (my second level of tune). in fact we did push a bit further, but at the moment all of my time is taken up with other engine conversions (including old school 300tdi builds - bored and stroked to 2.8L, all balanced bottom end, mildly ported head, my variable geometry turbo etc) - and I have a special 2.2 engine to build Whistle

For an entry level conversion the intercooler stays standard (except in high temperature locations), but the next level up needs the more efficent cooler for all markets.

It is true that cylinder pressures increase - which in turn will increase loading on the crank etc, but even with a standard engine there is a safe window you can push into without causing increased wear and thus be detrimental to the engine. This is why you should only trust a reputable company with a good understanding of base engines as well as calibration.... not just someone with a laptop that promises big power lol.

You need a good understanding of the mechanics before any tuning.

Ian IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

www.IRBdevelopments.com

www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments

www.integrated316.com

www.facebook.com/integrated316
Post #257732 10th Aug 2013 2:41pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3792

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Thanks.
So, with 150BHP & 460NM, which would surely be adequate for most of us, are you needing a different intercooler, and at what RPM are those figures generated.
What power increases are evident at 2000rpm.
Sorry for all the questions, but you did put up a ripper informative post, so as you obviously deal in FACTS, I know I'll get an honest answer.
Thanks, Pickles.
Post #257824 10th Aug 2013 10:46pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2774

United Kingdom 
Some more tuning box experience (Bin, breakdown & m6)
So after reading the last posts here, I decided to take the tuning box out when I next got chance. (I didn't get chance immediately as I had to drive to the northern lakes (2h on m6) first.

Sat at 70-75mph as usual, and suddenly realise that I'm at 70 then 65 then 60, and there's nothing I could do. Pulled over (increasingly slowly) and removed the box.

Set off again, been perfect ever since.

BOX BINNED.

Proper remap when I next get chance... I have 100% been converted.. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #258690 14th Aug 2013 9:07pm
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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3750

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Strange coincidence ???

But a wise move Thumbs Up California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #258701 14th Aug 2013 9:27pm
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