 | Home > Wheels & Tyres > Locking wheel nut - Stuck! |
 
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328  
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@sock
Ditch them Thatcham ap rubbish same as current BMW fitment many master kits out there plus they shear |
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2nd Aug 2013 12:33pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5861 
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Came to use the new locking wheel nut tool for the first time and it split!
 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Aug 2013 6:04pm |
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| Johnnyb0 Member Since: 26 Jun 2013 Location: Ulster Posts: 45
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Hi all, only had my Puma for a couple of months now and decided to check the security /tightness of the wheel nuts. It has SVX alloys fitted. I have a Halfords extendable wheel brace with a 27mm deep drive socket. At least two nuts on each wheel would not budge. Tried a two ft. Breaker bar and same result. It took a 3/4" 1 meter breaker bar with reducer to shift the nuts. No doubt wound on by a monkey with a windy gun at the dealers. I hate to think what I would have done if I had got a puncture? Now all torqued up to the recommended figure. Move easily with the Halfrauds wheel brace.
 Just a wee note of caution if you don't do your own servicing. |
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17th Sep 2013 8:25pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Hope you checked the mating faces of the wheels very carefully. I had a similar issue with a dealer after servicing and found two wheels had actually cracked.
I got the wheels replaced. |
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17th Sep 2013 9:33pm |
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| Shep Member Since: 02 Sep 2013 Location: Pwhelli Posts: 88 
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Are the torque figures with dry threads or lubed?
Mine were all painfully dry when i took them off, i didnt want to lube them with copper slip for obvious reasons, but it would be nice to put something on them? I used a splash of acf50, i expect the wheels to fall off at any time now  A man with no boat is a prisoner |
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17th Sep 2013 10:01pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501 
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There has been a debate on here before regarding whether to copper slip wheel bolt threads or not, i have always applied copper slip or similar to my wheel bolts on all makes of car and never had an issue with them.
just my personal opinion. 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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17th Sep 2013 10:09pm |
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| Johnnyb0 Member Since: 26 Jun 2013 Location: Ulster Posts: 45
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Thanks for that Supscat. Actually, no I didn't. The old bulbs ain't what they used to be and I wasn't wearing my specs. I'll remove the wheel nuts again and inspect with a magnifying glass and bright light. Mines still under warranty so it's worth the effort. Love this site. As they say, "every day's a school day". Like to gain from the knowledge and experience of those who have tread the same path.
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17th Sep 2013 10:10pm |
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| Johnnyb0 Member Since: 26 Jun 2013 Location: Ulster Posts: 45
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First of all I'm not a mechanic. And a little knowledge and all that..... There was a post from someone who ran a garage who said they they would sack any employee who would use copper grease on the wheel nuts. I had difficulty in " cracking" the nuts. They all went with a bang using considerable force. Not sure whether I was right or not but I put a little grease on the face of the washer/ wheel but kept the threads free of grease. I'll leave that one for the professionals to say yea or nea. The washers were starting to rust tho ??? I checked the nuts after two weeks and the torque was as I tightened it to.
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17th Sep 2013 10:22pm |
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| smb Member Since: 15 Jan 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1232 
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I may have this wrong, but I was always told to never put anything on the threads. Just wire brush them and keep them clean so as not to get false torque effect.
The Copper slip was always applied to the face of the drum to stop the wheel 'fusing' to it withe heat and pressure. Like I say, I could have it wrong but I have followed this advice for over 30years/1,000,000 miles and have never had any problem with nuts coming loose, wheels coming off or seizure. |
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17th Sep 2013 10:29pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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"The Copper slip was always applied to the face of the drum to stop the wheel 'fusing' to it withe heat and pressure."
Or better still the rear face of the wheel to ensure you don't use too much that just sits between the spokes of the wheel and then spins off all over the place! |
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18th Sep 2013 12:02pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5861
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Finally got a ring to go around the locking wheel nut socket and being careful managed to undo three of the four nuts. The rear one is being a bitch. So have ordered some new ones from DefenderBits - cheers chaps
Will have another battle with the stubborn nut at the weekend, might have to weld a nut to the nut. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Oct 2013 1:17pm |
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