 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Charging problems |
 
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069  
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the alternator voltage should read about 14.4v (when engine running)
the battery should be at least 12.2v (when engine stopped) check your earth lead from the battery to the chassis under the car check the relays under the seat and ensure they are all firmly in place if there are no other signs, you'll need to get it on the diagnostics and have a look for any codes good luck! |
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7th Jun 2015 3:30pm |
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| Thomjam Member Since: 07 Jun 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 6  
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Thank you.
Done that. Din not fix it. I guess there might be a problem with the ECU,but it does not indicate any problems. Strange problem... |
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7th Jun 2015 3:46pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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Having a quick glance at the diagram I believe the starter motor appears to be 'in series' with the alternator. I would perhaps have a look there if there were any issues perhaps? The two red cables attached to the starter motor should be linked internally within the starter motor itself. If this link is open it may cause the symptoms you describe. You mention the lamp is lit when it is supposed to be lit, does it also extinguish when it is supposed to extinguish? There is also ECU involvement but I am unsure what this is sorry.
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jun 2015 4:40pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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main charging lead from alternator goes from back of alternator to starter main terminal , charge current is then taken back to battery via starter main live feed
test lead at back of alternator is live ( permament live ) if not check connection on starter check alternator is charging by testing voltage on rear main terminal ( roughly 14.4v ) never known a ecu cause a charging problem , ( only time anything like that was with a cheap recon alternator that the ecu wouldn't control to switch on ) there a smart charge alternator controlled by ecu , but like said never seen a ecu cause charging problem |
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7th Jun 2015 5:45pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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Maybe you battery is expired ?
Will it hold a charge if you use a battery charger ? Why do you think it's the ecu? |
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7th Jun 2015 5:51pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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This may help both Munch's and my explanations.....excuse the quality.
Steve the ECU involvement is the white cable purple stripe second shot to the alternator itself 'Altmon?!' (Alternator monitor perhaps?) Maybe just a theory but could it keep the alternator off line whilst cranking to prevent overload?
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jun 2015 6:15pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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The ecu switches the alternator on after about 3-4 secs after starting
they call it a smart charge alternator |
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7th Jun 2015 6:29pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Thanks Munch, pretty much as theorised! Could be ECU related as the OP suggested then! Would need to get a voltmeter on that cable and the output of the alternator to see what the relationship is and expected outputs. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jun 2015 6:39pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Doubt it would be ecu related , like said never seen it on any car ( but we are talking a defender here
 )and most stuff have smart charge now
my money would be on connections or cheap recon alternator |
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7th Jun 2015 6:46pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Agree (I think). Definitely about the 'Defender' bit! Think the starter motor where the two cables are linked would be a good starting point (no pun intended).
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jun 2015 6:56pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Yep agree about starter connection
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7th Jun 2015 7:03pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Another slight possibility would be alternator pulley slipping as there a freewheel / clutch / over run pulley and when knackered can slip and not drive alternator , even though it looks like its turning ok
some new/recon alternator come with pulleys some without , so maybe a problem if the old pulley fitted on new alternator |
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7th Jun 2015 7:14pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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At least he now has a few more pointers that will nail the issue down hopefully, either way it'll need a voltmeter at the very least! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jun 2015 7:24pm |
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| Thomjam Member Since: 07 Jun 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 6
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Thank you a lot guys! This is great! I will take the advice with me to the garage to morrow - they specialize on Land Rover, so I'm surprised they haven't worked it out. In the meantime I drive my 90 soft top, more reliable the 300 Tdi.
Will post when (?) problem is solved. Thanks again Thom |
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7th Jun 2015 9:09pm |
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