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Ayahuasca



Member Since: 12 Dec 2013
Location: Panama
Posts: 4

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Bonatti Grey
Max engine revs - hill descent - how high is too high?
Obviously there is no red line on the rev-counter, but I keep it under 3k revs under normal conditions and this works fine.

EXCEPT - going down very steep hills -under engine braking - in low 1st - the sort of hills where you can't let it run away - the revs climb way above 4-5k (can';t remember exactly, but may be even higher). Is this a problem? What do you do - let the engine scream in pain, or feather the brakes to reduce revs, and risk inducing a slide? Changing to a higher gear is of course not an option!

??

Cheers!
Post #289991 12th Dec 2013 10:43pm
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RobKeay



Member Since: 19 Jul 2009
Location: Stafford
Posts: 1579

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Would not want to do it everyday but it will be fine. Land Rover test their engines off road and they push them pretty hard. Your engine won't blow up and will blow the cobwebs out.
Post #289992 12th Dec 2013 10:49pm
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RobKeay



Member Since: 19 Jul 2009
Location: Stafford
Posts: 1579

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Don't break going down hill off road. Best thing todo is remove foot away from brake pedal to stop temptation of trying to brake There's a video on you tube were a 90 applies the brakes on a steep decent and he tips over.
Post #289994 12th Dec 2013 10:51pm
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Phil VM2.5



Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Limelette
Posts: 196

Belgium 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
puma 2.2
Hello,
I can,t answer but on the same subject I have the feelingthat the engine brake is less powerfull as with older land rover.
Phil current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and
again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today.

One ten 1988 to 1992
1987 BMW GS80
One Ten from 1984 to 1987
One Ten from 1983 to 1984
Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983
from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6
Post #290005 13th Dec 2013 3:54am
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Just make sure your engine is at temperature before doing the rough stuff.
And have it run iddle or drive carefully after for a minute or two, so your turbo gets cooled bedore turning the engine off.
In fact, do that always, also after a long drive.
Post #290008 13th Dec 2013 6:07am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
@op On those very log, very steep descents, I feather the brakes very lightly every now and then just to keep the revs down a bit.

It is interesting to note that under compression, the engine is actually not burning any fuel. In fact, after these long descents, the EGT on my Puma has down to as low as 60C!

And yes, let the vehicle idle for a few minutes always! Thumbs Up --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #290009 13th Dec 2013 6:25am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
Yes the engine braking isn't great on the puma, I guess the compression is just too big/small (can't remember which haha!) I've found some light braking just to keep the revs down can help, but it usally would cope on it's own- I just chicken out

I got taken around a purpose built quarry at LRE peckforton castle in a 2.2 110 and the driver never once touched the brake, and we were going down slopes so steep that the tow bar bottomed out leaving it.. Coped fine Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #290026 13th Dec 2013 8:55am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Engine braking is quite good on a Puma 2.4. That engine's compression is 17.5 : 1
Thę Puma 2.2 has a lower compression rate of 15.5 : 1
I have tested a friend's new Puma 2.2, and there definitely is less engine braking than on my Puma 2.4
If you do a search, this discussion has come up in various threads already, not everybody agrees with what I say here, but I have experienced the difference.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #290069 13th Dec 2013 11:18am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Agree with engine braking on the 2.4, very good.

I suspect even the 2.2 is still better than the Jap stuff. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #290073 13th Dec 2013 11:32am
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