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robpenrose

Member Since: 15 Jan 2011
Location: Hampshire or Cornwall
Posts: 338

bpman wrote:
I agree, use genuine.

One thing you could try .. I used to get some water in on my td5, passenger side - it seemed to be in the curve of the door where the rubber bends, I put some grease on the rubber and that solved it ..

The area you mention is exactly where mine has deformed and looks very different to the drivers side. I think it needs replacing regardless if it's the source of the leak.

Looks like I will have to bite the bullet and go genuine.

Thanks for the update on the Discount from the Disco 3 guys, I will look into that.

Once I have replaced that, I will properly look for the water ingress. Current:D4 HSE
Gone: BMW Z4MC
Gone: Defender TD5 90 CSW
Previous: Discovery TD5 ES (Gone)

5th Jan 2012 7:42pm

szracer

Member Since: 10 Oct 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 356

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Hi Bob,

I have the Nakatanenga seals on my front doors, and whilst they definitely reduce dust ingress dramatically, and even reduce wind noise, they don't (in my experience, but I didn't have leaky doors before fitting them) have much effect on water ingress (nor, AFAIK, are they designed to).

To be fair, the only leaks I had in my 110 were coming from the screen seals (both from the windscreen rubber, foam strip below windscreen and gasket behind screen 'block'.

I cured all of these leaks with a good application of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure, which is superb stuff (originally designed for boats). It has very high viscosity, which helps it to 'seek out leaks/gaps;. Before you all snigger, do a Google search!

I now have a perfectly dry interior in my 110......for now anyway!

bob neville wrote:
Still trying to find somebody who has fitted the Nak seals. Expensive but if they stop the leaks and fit better than the OEM ones then I would fit them.

Bob

2010 110 XS USW (the slow one)
1960 Alfa Romeo Giulietta SZ (the fast one)
2005 Ducati ST3
1954 Sunbeam S8

5th Jan 2012 8:35pm

bob neville

Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Thanks James

Bob

5th Jan 2012 8:41pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

szracer wrote:
I cured all of these leaks with a good application of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

Did you remove the foam rubber strip under the windscreen first or just treat the foam rubber itself?

AND how much would I need for the windscreen surround and the foam? I have a choice between 60 ml and 250 ml and postage from the UK ain't cheap

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

5th Jan 2012 8:49pm

Snowbeast17

Member Since: 20 Nov 2011
Location: Highlands
Posts: 48

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Hi guys, I still have this water leak dripping on to the brake peddle and last week thought I had worked out where it was comming in. I thought it was through the rubber foam under the windscreen. You can see about 1cm of it at the side of the dash and it was soaking wet. So I neatly siliconed it ( black) thinking this was going to fix it.
Well it didn't! So now I'm sure it's coming through the windscreen seal and running down from there.
It going to the dealer to get the windscreen sealed so hopefully that will be it sorted. RRS tdv8 08
Disco 3 HSE 57
Defender 90 xs 06

All gone

5th Jan 2012 9:15pm

szracer

Member Since: 10 Oct 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 356

I merely squirted a small 'bead' of Captain Tolley's all along the foam strip, top and bottom, around the windscreen blocks, and also around the inner bottom corners of the windscreen rubber.

It's very runny stuff, and you only need a very small amount, as it 'finds its way' to the leaks by capillary action. If you put too much on, you end up having to wipe off the excess. It does dry clear, though. 60ml should do you. I've used only a fraction of the bottle I bought.

ZeDefender wrote:
szracer wrote:
I cured all of these leaks with a good application of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

Did you remove the foam rubber strip under the windscreen first or just treat the foam rubber itself?

AND how much would I need for the windscreen surround and the foam? I have a choice between 60 ml and 250 ml and postage from the UK ain't cheap

Cheers
Matt

2010 110 XS USW (the slow one)
1960 Alfa Romeo Giulietta SZ (the fast one)
2005 Ducati ST3
1954 Sunbeam S8

5th Jan 2012 9:24pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2645

szracer wrote:
I merely squirted a small 'bead' of Captain Tolley's all along the foam strip, top and bottom, around the windscreen blocks, and also around the inner bottom corners of the windscreen rubber.

It's very runny stuff, and you only need a very small amount, as it 'finds its way' to the leaks by capillary action. If you put too much on, you end up having to wipe off the excess. It does dry clear, though. 60ml should do you. I've used only a fraction of the bottle I bought.

ZeDefender wrote:
szracer wrote:
I cured all of these leaks with a good application of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

Did you remove the foam rubber strip under the windscreen first or just treat the foam rubber itself?

AND how much would I need for the windscreen surround and the foam? I have a choice between 60 ml and 250 ml and postage from the UK ain't cheap

Cheers
Matt

My concern with this is that the instructions for this stuff say it doesn't work in wet conditions. The inside of my windscreen seal is quite wet (god-damn new seal leaking, can't believe it!), so I doubt it would work in my case.

For what it's worth I have a new windscreen seal, new foam strip, new seals under the screen clamps, new door seals. Still ******* leaks!

5th Jan 2012 9:39pm

szracer

Member Since: 10 Oct 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 356

Actually, it doesn't say it doesn't work in wet conditions, but it does say that the area should be as dry as possible.

In my case, I did it in the height of Summer.

However, what about plugging a small fan heater to an extension cable and leave it sitting on the front seat, facing the windscreen. After an hour or so, the seal should have dried out?

Retroanaconda wrote:
szracer wrote:
I merely squirted a small 'bead' of Captain Tolley's all along the foam strip, top and bottom, around the windscreen blocks, and also around the inner bottom corners of the windscreen rubber.

It's very runny stuff, and you only need a very small amount, as it 'finds its way' to the leaks by capillary action. If you put too much on, you end up having to wipe off the excess. It does dry clear, though. 60ml should do you. I've used only a fraction of the bottle I bought.

ZeDefender wrote:
szracer wrote:
I cured all of these leaks with a good application of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

Did you remove the foam rubber strip under the windscreen first or just treat the foam rubber itself?

AND how much would I need for the windscreen surround and the foam? I have a choice between 60 ml and 250 ml and postage from the UK ain't cheap

Cheers
Matt

My concern with this is that the instructions for this stuff say it doesn't work in wet conditions. The inside of my windscreen seal is quite wet (god-damn new seal leaking, can't believe it!), so I doubt it would work in my case.

For what it's worth I have a new windscreen seal, new foam strip, new seals under the screen clamps, new door seals. Still ******* leaks!

2010 110 XS USW (the slow one)
1960 Alfa Romeo Giulietta SZ (the fast one)
2005 Ducati ST3
1954 Sunbeam S8

6th Jan 2012 5:05pm

bmc054

Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 32

Seal

I replaced the seal between screen and bulkhead but found one wasnt thick enough to stop the leak so I fitted two one on top of the other and pulled the roof down with a ratchet strap each side to compress the seals while I put the bolts back through
Hope this helps
Bob

6th Jan 2012 6:36pm

bob neville

Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Retroanaconda wrote:
bob neville wrote:
Still trying to find somebody who has fitted the Nak seals. Expensive but if they stop the leaks and fit better than the OEM ones then I would fit them.

Bob

NAK seals? Care to elaborate?

These

http://nakatanenga-tours.de/shop/article_T...DDLL-VR%26

Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !

6th Jan 2012 9:08pm

Tazz

Member Since: 24 Mar 2011
Location: Harrow
Posts: 90

Well I fitted aftermarket seals from Craddocks (TD5 110) and have no complaints.

14th Jan 2012 1:17pm

Grockle

Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

check the washer pipes for the rear window washer, water can track through the bulk head on the pipes,remove the speaker for access 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.

14th Jan 2012 4:25pm

dnorrishill

Member Since: 15 Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 615

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Well I just fitted a set of front door rubber seals from Paddocks (which are actually Britpart) and now I have to slam the doors so hard to shut them I feels like I am going to break something and the

doors leak.

Where can I get a genuine set from?

18th Mar 2013 1:02pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

I've paid for "OEM" and got "the other one" from Paddocks before

Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

18th Mar 2013 1:56pm

sewin elwy

Member Since: 08 Aug 2012
Location: Snowdonia
Posts: 39

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

footwell water leak

If the water is pooling in the foot well and or running down the pedel it will be getting in at the foam seal between the bulkhead and the pedel box.
Its the same as all the other foam seals and they have a very short effective life!
Silkaflex is great stuff and works really well. Use it on this seal and on the seals for the screen, roof at the front and the tub. You can get a really professional finish without much effort.
Leave the original seals in place as you are then only surface filling. If you need to dismantle in the future a simple shallow central cut is all that's required to release them.

On areas like the tub use masking tape either side of the joint, don't over-fill and use a plastic spatula to remove the excess. then the wet finger technique to finish. It will give you a factory finish I promise!

If anyone wants a look at mine and are local ( I'm just off the A55 in north wales) you're welcome!

Martin.

21st Mar 2014 10:51am

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