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| Jock_Scotland Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: The Borders Posts: 12   
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Update on this.
We stripped back the loom yesterday and found nothing wrong at all. Continuity is good to the turbo actuator plug and there is no shorts to the other pins or 0V line. That will get loomed back up today. The garage who looked at this told me the ECU was not sending a signal to the actuator and that if the loom is okay (which they though it was) then the next suspect is the ECU. They sent this off to be tested but it was returned unproven as the company could not work on this type of ECU. So, I phoned Pete at BAS to see if he could test it. Here's what he said: "It wont be the ECU, it will the harness or the actuator. If you have another 2.4, swap the actuator or buy a genuine one used or second hand. Don't buy a copycat one of eBay". Pete also asked if it had been tuned, which it has - 100,000 miles ago on a Superchips Bluefin device. This being the case, its possible that the increased boost pressure in the remap has pushed the actuator outside its limits and the ECU will see this and cut power to it to prevent burning something out. Not having a spare actuator, I instead prized the covers off the one I had (nothing to lose, its going nowhere anyway) and the motor was jammed up solid at the end of the actuators travel. Managed to turn it by hand to the mid position, slapped it back together and fitted it. As soon as the ignition when on, it started to move - and the turbo is back online again! The ECU clearly saw this in a normal position and powered it back up. Some things to note. Throughout all this, the ECU never logged a code - it just stopped moving the actuator Initially, the actuator mechanism on the turbo itself was sticky at both ends of the travel (open and shut). The garage cleaned this up with some cleaning compound and its free again. So in summary, at this stage it looks like a sticky turbo vane mechanism has caused the electronic actuator to lock up in a "outside normal parameters" position, which the ECU has then shut down power to. I'll update this post in a while, once its been out on the road for a bit. Very grateful to Pete Bell for 3 minutes of his time and knowledge. |
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14th Jul 2023 8:34am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386 
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Pete is indeed a legend, and a very helpful fellow!
It is much more fun when the actuator sticks in the full boost position, rather than the zero boost position! |
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14th Jul 2023 9:33am |
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| Jock_Scotland Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: The Borders Posts: 12
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Another update.
Used the Defender at the weekend and it was OK, mostly. On my way home up an long hill it lost power again, lots of whooshing induction noise but no power. Assuming that the turbo vanes were stuck wide open and the ECU cut the fuelling. No trouble codes stored. So, I’ve bought an Inotek Turbo Vane cleaning kit from the motor factor and removed the turbo, breaking a bolt on the turbo intake and having to chisel a nut off the manifold in the process. Anyway. Removing the actuator I confirm the vanes were sticky and jamming, no way the turbo actuator could overcome that. The Inotek kit comes with three bottles. The cleaner, the flush / neutraliser and a fuel system cleaner. Pretty easy to do, but you need to take care as this stuff is seriously aggressive. It’s a foaming solvent, but not caustic based like Mr Muscle oven cleaner that some people use. Whilst expensive, it’s for purpose and I’d be worried what caustic would do to the seals in turbo. Followed the process, and the vanes now seem to be free and smooth. Reassembled, replaced the broken bits and refitted. Only been down the road and back, checked for leaks but early indications are it’s been a success. Certainty feels more spritely but that may be placebo. Update soon. |
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25th Jul 2023 9:33pm |
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| thenorthdefender Member Since: 17 Dec 2022 Location: trabzon Posts: 7  
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Update on this. please |
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9th Oct 2023 10:51pm |
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| Jock_Scotland Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: The Borders Posts: 12
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Okay, it’s a couple of thousand miles since I posted last so here’s what’s happened:
The actuator continued to be sticky so I took off the turbo and used a cleaning kit in it from The local factor. Not the usual magic witchspit you pour in the tank, but a very aggressive solvent which you spray into the turbo and leave for a couple of hours then rinse. A bit like Oven Cleaner, which some people use. This made a big difference for a short time, reverting back to its old ways within 1000 miles or so. Mine was causing problems when the turbo was hot. So I phoned Turbo Technics and bought a new turbo (£100 more than recon). New everything including actuator included. It was bolted on last weekend along with a full service. Instantly better. Defender is far quieter, diesel rattle / knock is more or less gone and it’s no longer howling / whooshing on acceleration. Might be a little down on power compared to before, but I’m putting that down to it no longer overboosting constantly. It’s not shown any signs of total power loss under hard acceleration yet so feels like it’s sorted. Only done 200 miles or so since the new Turbo fitted. Got 500-800 miles to put in next week, some of them pretty hard. I’ll post an update afterwards. Old turbo bearings were not showing much sign of play BTW. It’s the VNT ring which seems to have the problems. Mileage is 116000. |
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10th Oct 2023 5:08am |
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| thenorthdefender Member Since: 17 Dec 2022 Location: trabzon Posts: 7
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Thank you .
I have the same problem. p2562-34 unfortunately we couldn't find a solution |
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14th Oct 2023 8:35pm |
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