 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2.4 - No Power! |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20368  
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Thermostat as it’s temperature related.
Is the water pump working too? A couple of ideas, it’s likely running in limp mode. If it’s original maybe worth changing the VCV too. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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20th Dec 2020 11:54am |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28 
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Thanks Steve,
So you think that rather than a fault with the Turbo or whatever, that actually it is running in limp mode? Hadn't thought of that.... I guess I need to buy a scanner - this is the first Landy I have had that has such electronics! |
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20th Dec 2020 12:23pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782  
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There was an early fault of the loom breaking to the turbo across the top of the engine - IIRC it affected aircon equipped models more.
Also the vanes in the turbo can stick, although this doesn't log a fault code (|normally) Keith |
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20th Dec 2020 2:16pm |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28
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Thanks Keith
Funny enough, I just drove it with the MAF disconnected to ensure it wasn't that - it wasn't -exactly the same symptoms. I read on the website of the company that sent me the actuator that the vanes can stick when hot. So I disconnected the actuator (pinging the C Clip to be lost forever) and felt the movement - I have to say it didn't feel that smooth to me, so maybe with it hot and the engine running, it would be quite a bit worse? The chappie at the garage who scanned for the fault was candid enough to say that he thought the engine fault was as a result of a separate fault. |
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20th Dec 2020 2:20pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782
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Mine did the no power thing a few years ago - initially after a long constant speed / revs motorway run, then progressively more often.
I did all the usual VCV, loom etc but no avail. when it happened if I switched it off and re started it would always clear, got to the point when we were on our way down here, I could dip the clutch, switch off, restart and carry on without actually stopping the car, lots of fun with the big Ifor box on the back! Fitted a brand new turbo complete, good as new. An aerosol of turbo cleaner might be worth a try. HTH Keith |
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20th Dec 2020 2:33pm |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28
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Thanks Keith
You know when your car overheats your always hope it is the Thermostat - it never is... And when the Turbo is not working you always hope it is something causing it - but it is always the turbo 
I hadn't thought of some cleaner - as our American cousins say, Its like chicken soup, it can do no harm but it might do some good - I'll have a go at that and report back Cheers |
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20th Dec 2020 2:37pm |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28
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Rolling update, in case anyone references this in the future.
Tried Wynns in fuel Turbo Cleaner - put a double dose in and went for a slow, but very long drive - got through about 50% of a tank - no change at all. Tired Wynns aerosol cleaner - full can - no change at all. Took it to local independent Landy Engineer who was pretty sure that it is vanes that stilck when they get hot. He thinks that it should be cleanable rather than a replacement - but cannot have a look until the New Year. I will update this thread with next news! |
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21st Dec 2020 6:53pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782
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From memory a brand new oe Garret? turbo c/w gaskets from Germany was £600 ish and took a couple of hours to fit, wasn't worth the messing about as I needed it to be 100% reliable running back and forth uk to France.
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21st Dec 2020 8:00pm |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28
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I hear you.... I will think on it, this is a second car to me, but even so, a bit of reliability does no harm...
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21st Dec 2020 8:19pm |
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| robrennie Member Since: 20 Mar 2018 Location: Somerset Posts: 28
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Hi All,
i thought I would post the final part of this thread. The fault was a misplaced / not fitting correctly ECU connector- when taken off and replaced the fault went away. By then, I had replaced the air flow meter - it had a fault, but was not causing this problem, or not thought to Inlet manifold gaskets - there was a leak, so worth doing - but didn't solve it Injector seals - one was faulty, but had them all replaced EGR Valve. So a bit of a pain, but apart from the EGR all the other bits had faults so were worth doing. So if you have this problem, it feels the same as a sticky vane problem - take off the connector and put it back on. One thing that was different with this fault than with the sticky vane problem was that sometimes switching off the car and running it up again cleared it for a couple of minutes - apparently that does not happen with the vane problem. Hope posting the conclusion helps someone. |
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22nd Jan 2021 3:31pm |
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| astroarcadia Member Since: 12 Jun 2020 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 49 |
Thanks for the update, where is this ECU connector located?
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22nd Jan 2021 6:23pm |
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| Jock_Scotland Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: The Borders Posts: 12  
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Just read your post and it sounds very much like what I have with my 2010 110 Double Cab.
Currently its sat with no ECU fitted as the garage suggest that the ECU is not operating the Turbo Actuator - there is no voltage at the unit and nothing coming out of the ECU. Can you tell me more about how you sorted it? Did reseating the connector solve this for good (done that) or was there another fix? Currently I'm stuck with having to but a brand new ECU.....don't even know where to start with that. The Defender starts and runs, it just has zero boost. |
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7th Jul 2023 4:09pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382
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It is extremely common for the engine harness to chafe at multiple points where it is secured to or rubs against the engine on the TDCi Defender, the harness is poorly designed and very shoddily attached. If any of the sensing wires for the actuator stepper motor either become severed or short to ground, you will get error with the boost. This may be intermittent depending upon the nature of the damage.
If you do have a turbo actuator problems, I strongly recommend that before you start spending mega-sums on random component replacement in the hope that by pure chance you replace something faulty, you visually check the engine harness for its entire length (cut the cable ties holding to the engine to check for damage where tied). You may be lucky, like I was, and find that the main lead between the alternator and starter is showing bare copper just before the vehicle turns into a fireball as well. My turbo actuator has packed up twice. Once I had zero boost as a result (and the vehicle would not have pulled the proverbial skin off a rice pudding), the other time was much more spectacular since the actuator parked itself in the full boost position. Full boost all the time creates spectacular induction noise, especially if you have a large bore Nak snorkel and Nuggetstuff airbox, the vehicle sounds like a Vulcan bomber on full afterburn! Children would scream, pensioners would fall over, dogs would flee at the thunderous sound of my Defender accelerating gently away from a junction! 
On both occasions this was due to harness damage, the first time where the harness is secured to the engine near the vac pump, the second time (the noisy one) where the ferrite ring is fitted to the actuator harness near the actuator. Both times an easy and cheap repair. |
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7th Jul 2023 4:55pm |
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| Jock_Scotland Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: The Borders Posts: 12
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So, I had heard of this and I had a quick look at the loom without taking it apart and the outside looked okay.
You’re telling me that I need to cut it off, strip it back and check it end to end? I’ll try that but I thought the garage had stuck on breakout box on the ECU and checked voltages / wiring. Oddly, I’d also had an incident recently where I thought the turbo was making a hell of an induction noise too, but it was intermittent. Sounds like it may maybe stuck wide open too. If I find chafed wiring, what’s the best repair option other than insulting tape? |
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7th Jul 2023 8:47pm |
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