DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - LOF Powermaster Install tips

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > LOF Powermaster Install tips

Page 3 of 3

Print this entire topic ·

sgreenham

Member Since: 27 Apr 2019
Location: Southampton
Posts: 145

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green

Nice job!

It sounds like a very worthwhile upgrade so may have to give it a bash sometime

25th Apr 2020 5:26pm

fatnold

Member Since: 04 Mar 2018
Location: Sydney
Posts: 8

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Fuji White

thanks for the post. Today's project.

15th Mar 2021 10:50pm

JimC

Member Since: 22 Jan 2011
Location: NOVA
Posts: 164

2007 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Arles Blue

Is anyone else having the problem where the operating rod bottoms out against the wall of the pedal tower?

18th Mar 2021 11:14am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8027

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

And? Is it any lighter? Worth the agro? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

18th Mar 2021 1:54pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001

Co1 wrote:
With the master cylinder out, I lined it up with the new one to set the 2 locking nuts in place to get the biting point in more or less the same place as the other. These are 14mm.

Click image to enlarge

Given how difficult it was to thread the 13mm spanner onto the nut on the bottom fixing to the pedal box, there was no way I would get my hand in there to put the nut back on. So, with some 5 minute epoxy, I glued it on instead.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

While it sets. I’m off for a sandwich.

I’m about to do a master cylinder change on my friends 2.4... any reason I can’t fit the bottom bolt through the master cylinder and the nut on in the footwell, I.e reversing how it was fitted at the factory and avoiding the need to glue the nut to the master cylinder ?

17th Jun 2023 9:57pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

Not sure. Possible clearance issues getting the bolt through? Can’t see why it wouldn’t be worth a try though.

18th Jun 2023 6:59am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001

Thx Co1, was there any issues removing the unbolted master cylinder from the pedal box as there does not seem much room between the back of the master cylinder and the bulkhead, looks about 30-50mm gap.

22nd Jun 2023 10:42pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

From memory it was fine. The brake lines make access a bit difficult if your run across the top off the box, but it don’t recall any issues.

23rd Jun 2023 5:00am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001

Thanks to Co1’s posts here I changed the master cylinder, for a LOF power master one, on my friends 2.4 today.

Took about 2 hours in all. Getting that lower bolt out is a two person job.
I used an S shaped/type 13mm ring spanner to hold the lower nut ( in engine bay) and my friend a 10mm ratchet spanner to loosen the bolt from inside the footwell. You can’t do it without the ratchet ring spanner as there is not enough room.

The S shaped 13mm spanner I got on the nut from the left side ( viewed while facing the bulkhead) and used my fingers from the right side to guide it onto the nut by feel. Once bolt was loosened I could just spin nut off with fingers while friend held bolt with ratchet ring spanner inside footwel. Keeping hold of the nut to withdraw it is hard and it dropped to the back of the pedal box, but easy to retrieve once master cylinder is out.

On reassembly my friend pushed the bolt back in from footwell and held there with ratchet spanner and fingers and I managed to spin the nut on with my fingers from right hand side. Ps my hands are not small but managed to do it first time. Have a magnet on a stick ready to retrieve it if you drop it . Else use Co1’s method of gluing nut to MC.

I then fitted the S shaped 13 mm ring spanner on the nut as per above, spanner from left hand side using fingers from right hand side to guide onto nut. Then from inside footwell my friend tightened bolt with 10mm ratchet spanner while I held nut in place with S shaped ring spanner.

Top bolt is easy with 13mm open end spanner on nut and 10mm 1/4 inch socket on 2 inch wobble bar extension and 1/4 inch ratchet on bolt in pedal box.

So it’s all doable on a 2.4 or 2.2 TDCI without removing the clutch pedal box. just really tight and benefits from two people doing it.

Note: On the original Girling MC the push rod is a finer thread with 13mm nuts, on the LOF MC the thread looks metric and first two nuts are wider and 14mm and the 3rd nylock nut is metric 13mm !

PS. Reminds me of a joke, Did you hear about that gynaecologist, he wallpapered his hall via the letter box. I think I could do that now

Once bolted everything together and after bleeding the clutch the problem still exists, pedal goes to floor and stays there, clutch does not disengage. So it was worth a punt as there was no leak at the weephole at bottom of gearbox where it mates wiith the engine, but seems we probably have a slave cylinder issue. Well unless someone thinks it could be me not bleeding correctly.
Views appreciated.

25th Jun 2023 4:24pm

Page 3 of 3

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum