hornet wrote:

It is remarkable that the cleaning procedure for the injectors had a direct influence on the number of particles. For me, this would be the first starting point, namely a test of the proper functioning of the injectors.
All provided that the vehicle has been registered with guaranteed particulate emissions. As mentioned above.

It is off topic, but I am really happy to own a MY10

TomB8 wrote:

Unfortunately, it seems more and more common that garages just want to bolt new bits on instead of properly trying to diagnose a fault. I mean they could be right, but as you have said it is a lot of money for a hunch. Could you maybe get one form a breakers?

If this is the first time the emissions have been tested since you had the tune then I guess that is the best place to start.

I don't know much about dpf's but it does sound like you do long trips, which should mean from what I understand that it should be clean-ish, so perhaps you have some underlying issue that has resulted in excess build-up over time? Perhaps even just the tune and your right foot regularly testing how good it is.

I am sure someone will be able to advise how to test for a leaky injector, it may be as simple as popping them out with the fuel rail, running the pump and watching for any drips?

1 bar should have revealed any leaks in the intake as you say. Do the noises happen when the car is stationary and if so, have you tried going round with a mechanics stethoscope?

TomB8 wrote:

I would have thought the dpf would throw a code if not doing what it is supposed to - it did so on my tdv8. In fact, it did so very rarely, but I decided that as there were isolated cases of a failed egr's causing total engine loss both should be replaced. That took me 2 days, cost over £500 and the old ones seemed fine! No more codes though thankfully.

Found a dpf of eBay in the Netherlands, not cheap but much cheaper than a new one: https://www.ebay.nl/itm/144568663880?hash=...R-Se2uSAYg

I am very much hopeful reverting your tune will resolve your issues.

I just read an interesting article on Delphi technologies website: making sense of your sensors: dpf differential pressure sensor. Which would suggest that if the dpf wasn't working as it should (it was blocked or had a hole in it) the sensors would pick it up and throw a code, or that the sensors may not be performing as they should. There is a useful guide on how to check the sensors. If you want a link let me know and I'll send when back at my pc.

Regards your noise, might be a silly idea, but could you duct tape a mic in various places to identify where the noise is loudest? Obviously not on your exhaust, but you might at least be able to tell what kind of area the noise is coming from.

MatLandy wrote:

Dinnu wrote:

As to the EGR comments posted earlier, I see that my EGR position goes to about 45% when idle. But unsure if that is 45% open or 45% closed.

That means 45% open, and is OK when idling. Most important is that you have 0% when accelerating and working the engine. If not you have a failing EGR (not capable of closing fully anymore). This means exhaust gas leaking back into the inlet manifold when revving and not adequate fuel/air mix to the combustion chamber. This will contribute to sooth and smoke out of the exhaust. (and not achieving full power / max torque).

I am unsure if the Dutch MOT emission testing is performed when revving the engine, but if that is the case and the EGR is not closing properly when revving, this might very well contribute to failing the test. I would suggest to monitor the live values of commanded and actual EGR position using a Nanocom or other OBD reader while driving to establish if the EGR is working properly or not, before forking out big money on a new DPF.

/Mat

BaCoNMX6 wrote:

...
- after chatting with the mechanic my understanding is that while my car does have a dpf it does not have any form of self regen mechanisms. And if I physically look at the DPF there are no additional pipes or cables installed or coming off the DPF from factory so that seems to make some sense.
...

dotom wrote:

If possible try two or three tanks of Aral Ultimate Diesel or Shell V-Power Diesel. That also cleans everything... and also it runs smoother.
Best regards
Tom

blackwolf wrote:

BaCoNMX6 wrote:

...
- after chatting with the mechanic my understanding is that while my car does have a dpf it does not have any form of self regen mechanisms. And if I physically look at the DPF there are no additional pipes or cables installed or coming off the DPF from factory so that seems to make some sense.
...

I'm not quite sure what you're meaning with this. In the normal course of events your DPF will regenerate when required in what is now the usual manner for nearly all cars, namely extra fuel will be injected during the exhaust strokes of the engine. Some of this fuel will then pass with the exhaust gas to the DPF where it will be ignited to burn off the soot (the rest will helpfully dribble past the piston rings and dilute the oil in the sump, ultimately leading to premature engine failure, such is the price of green-ness).

I'm not sure what you are expecting to see on the DPF itself.

BaCoNMX6 wrote:

I got the impression that some systems actually have a direct feed to the filter itself instead of relying on the process you describe

Something like the attached I suppose