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TheTechnobear



Member Since: 28 Jan 2011
Location: Guadix, Spain
Posts: 54

Spain 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Ok, so will get it warm, then turn off (and wait 5-10mins) , then check.

Any thoughts on the hot air from the filler cap?

Also I checked the workshop manual, but couldn't determine how to "check that all the breathers are clear"
... any hints on what I'm looking for Smile

Btw, can you buy a printed workshop manual for the puma? I've a downloaded copy but it's not that convienent to browse Smile
Post #98829 8th Nov 2011 8:01pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
The hole is normal - on earlier models you had 2 plugs (One bell housing and One on the Timing case) that you would put in when off roading to prevent water/mud etc entering the void that is above (its where the clutch is and is actually - adapting/attaching the engine to the transmission).

As for the oil - sorry if you know this - the engine gets hot...very hot, which is why it has a cooling system; however, the engine is still "warm" when in use, in fact the oil works and relies on being warm to thin it and make it work better and adds a cooling value to the engine

There is a difference between hot air or warmth and actual pressure, again a small amount of pressure can also be normal - i have seen many cars will a little pressure but its difficult to define that on a forum

Your oil leak could be engine or gearbox, on an earlier LR i had the leak was that black but wasnt engine it was gearbox, so its difficult to tell...a comment is that what sometimes looks like a lot of oil isnt actually a massive quantity - gearbox level on a puma is more difficult to check than previous models where you would check relative to the filling hole - now its quantity based. There is also oil in the transfer box (back of the gear box) and this can be checked in the conventional way relative to the filler plug

Check the oil level ideally when warm after 10-15 minutes minimum of the car standing Mike
Post #98887 9th Nov 2011 7:56am
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TheTechnobear



Member Since: 28 Jan 2011
Location: Guadix, Spain
Posts: 54

Spain 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
ok, did the oil check with the correct procedure Smile

it still shows as overfilled, its almost at the top of the piece of metal that has the measuring guide... my understanding is max is at the top of the crosshatching (min at the bottom of the crosshatching) - correct?

i guess, as you say mse, i need to also check the gearbox oil, just in case its leaking from there.

sounds like something to watch rather than a pressing concern... certainly both engine and gearbox seem to be operating fine - no funny noises from either.
Post #99023 9th Nov 2011 7:47pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
DId you wipe the dip stick first? Mike
Post #99036 9th Nov 2011 8:58pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
mse wrote:
DId you wipe the dip stick first?

Rolling with laughter
(sorry) Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #99037 9th Nov 2011 9:05pm
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TheTechnobear



Member Since: 28 Jan 2011
Location: Guadix, Spain
Posts: 54

Spain 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Laughing

Yes, I pulled it out, cleaned it, stuck it back in... Then took it out, then checked it

I did this a few times, until I was satisfied I done it right Very Happy
Post #99041 9th Nov 2011 9:17pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2626

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Sounds like my first time Whistle
Post #99051 9th Nov 2011 9:40pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
ZeDefender wrote:
mse wrote:
DId you wipe the dip stick first?

Rolling with laughter
(sorry)


Rolling Eyes Snigger

Quote:


Yes, I pulled it out, cleaned it, stuck it back in... Then took it out, then checked it

I did this a few times, until I was satisfied I done it right


Had to check - its possible if the ground is level its overfilled - in which case STOP do not drive your car, if the oil is really over filled you can damage your engine driving Mike
Post #99055 9th Nov 2011 10:05pm
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Scallops



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 89

Australia 
If engine oil is coming out of that hole on your bellhousing it's the rear main. Odd to be doing so on such a new vehicle.
Post #105227 7th Dec 2011 3:15am
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Scallops



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 89

Australia 
After reading this thread, I thought I'd check out my vehicle! Whistle Maybe I can offer the OP this.....

I took a look at the underside of my bellhousing last night after a 25km drive home, and low and behold, there was a single tear drip of what looks like engine oil in the same vicinity! But it had not come from the breather hole - it was at the junction of the cast main bellhousing and the iron front assembly directly in front of that hole.

I am quite sure the substance is not engine oil, transmission oil nor clutch fluid.

What you might need to do is this. Get a metric 13 socket, a socket extender, and tighten up the bellhousing bolts that go from the rear of the cast housing towards the front of the housing and into the iron section at the front. The bolts I'm referring to are clearly shown on your first picture to the left and right of the "stain" area. These bolts hold the cast and iron parts together, and some of mine were loose! After tightening them up, I drove 50km and rechecked - it's all clear.

I reckon my "oil" (and maybe what you saw) is the gasket goo or grease (or crud!) between the cast and iron assemblies that has become somewhat liquid and ran due to the housing bolts being slightly loose and the high heat of these parts. Check yours - if you get a quarter turn as I did on some of the bolts, nip them up, wipe it all up and take a test drive drive and recheck. Hopefully your situation is as I describe. Just can't see a rear main going on a Puma yet. Thumbs Up
Post #105476 8th Dec 2011 1:54am
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TheTechnobear



Member Since: 28 Jan 2011
Location: Guadix, Spain
Posts: 54

Spain 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Thanks for that, I will have a check.

(after sorting out the overfill I'd been just keeping an eye on it until I can find a mechanic who can give the truck a good look over , including this... also want to see if there are ecu faults registered)
Post #105581 8th Dec 2011 5:28pm
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Scallops



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 89

Australia 
TheTechnobear wrote:
Thanks for that, I will have a check.

(after sorting out the overfill I'd been just keeping an eye on it until I can find a mechanic who can give the truck a good look over , including this... also want to see if there are ecu faults registered)


So - what did you find? Checking the bolts is trivial!
Post #106261 11th Dec 2011 10:06pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
LR90XS2011 wrote:
if thats the clutch bell housing then I would suspect the engine crank shaft oil seal . like Feteke states I wouldnt worry but keep an eye on it and the oil levels, if it is engine oil check that all the breathers are clear and the crank case is not pressurising (noticable pressurised air flow out of the filler cap when removed with engine running)


LR90XS2011 is exactly right. That is the bell-housing which attaches the gearbox housing to the engine. It also protects the flywheel and clutch.

Clutch fluid- All clutch items (which contain oil) are on the outside of the bell housing therefore there shouldn't be any clutch fluid inside there.

Engine oil- This ie exactly what it will be. The hole is there so that oil from the crank seal doesn't accumulate in the bell housing and get all over your clutch. It also gives you a visual warning that the seal is letting oil past. Older models used to have a threaded hole which you would put a 'wading plug' in when going through water- but people were known to leave them in and the bell-housing over time would fill up with engine oil.

If you are in warranty book her in straight away and get it sorted. Otherwise, start saving the pennies to get the work done when it gets bad.... might be a good idea to change the clutch whilst you are in there if the car is over 3 years old (you have to remove the housing and plate when getting to the seal).

Hope this helps,
Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #106299 12th Dec 2011 8:24am
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TheTechnobear



Member Since: 28 Jan 2011
Location: Guadix, Spain
Posts: 54

Spain 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
@scallops, nuts were tight Sad

Glyn, its out of warrant, its a late 2007.
So, I'll watch the oil level, once I'm loosing more oil it needs crank seal needs fixing.

You say start saving the pennies, sounds expensive ... Any idea rough cost of parts, and man hours ?

Thanks guys
Post #106390 12th Dec 2011 3:13pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Crank seal will set you back about £10-30 depending on who manufactured it. The main cost will be labour as this will involve the removal of the T/box, G/box, clutch and flywheel...... in UK I would estimate anything from £400-1000 depending on the place.

Then of course you might as well change your 4 year old clutch (unless it was changed under warranty at some point). Which will set you back about £150-200.

Do you have any mechanical skills/ equipment? The job is an easy one which is just a case of taking things off and then re-assembling it... probably one good days work.

Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #106397 12th Dec 2011 3:44pm
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