 | Home > Technical > damaged transmission housing? |
 
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035   
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The hole is normal - on earlier models you had 2 plugs (One bell housing and One on the Timing case) that you would put in when off roading to prevent water/mud etc entering the void that is above (its where the clutch is and is actually - adapting/attaching the engine to the transmission).
As for the oil - sorry if you know this - the engine gets hot...very hot, which is why it has a cooling system; however, the engine is still "warm" when in use, in fact the oil works and relies on being warm to thin it and make it work better and adds a cooling value to the engine There is a difference between hot air or warmth and actual pressure, again a small amount of pressure can also be normal - i have seen many cars will a little pressure but its difficult to define that on a forum Your oil leak could be engine or gearbox, on an earlier LR i had the leak was that black but wasnt engine it was gearbox, so its difficult to tell...a comment is that what sometimes looks like a lot of oil isnt actually a massive quantity - gearbox level on a puma is more difficult to check than previous models where you would check relative to the filling hole - now its quantity based. There is also oil in the transfer box (back of the gear box) and this can be checked in the conventional way relative to the filler plug Check the oil level ideally when warm after 10-15 minutes minimum of the car standing Mike |
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9th Nov 2011 7:56am |
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| TheTechnobear Member Since: 28 Jan 2011 Location: Guadix, Spain Posts: 54  
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ok, did the oil check with the correct procedure
it still shows as overfilled, its almost at the top of the piece of metal that has the measuring guide... my understanding is max is at the top of the crosshatching (min at the bottom of the crosshatching) - correct? i guess, as you say mse, i need to also check the gearbox oil, just in case its leaking from there. sounds like something to watch rather than a pressing concern... certainly both engine and gearbox seem to be operating fine - no funny noises from either. |
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9th Nov 2011 7:47pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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DId you wipe the dip stick first? Mike
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9th Nov 2011 8:58pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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(sorry) Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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9th Nov 2011 9:05pm |
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| TheTechnobear Member Since: 28 Jan 2011 Location: Guadix, Spain Posts: 54
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Yes, I pulled it out, cleaned it, stuck it back in... Then took it out, then checked it I did this a few times, until I was satisfied I done it right  |
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9th Nov 2011 9:17pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2626  
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Sounds like my first time
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9th Nov 2011 9:40pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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Had to check - its possible if the ground is level its overfilled - in which case STOP do not drive your car, if the oil is really over filled you can damage your engine driving Mike |
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9th Nov 2011 10:05pm |
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| Scallops Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: Brisbane Australia Posts: 89 
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If engine oil is coming out of that hole on your bellhousing it's the rear main. Odd to be doing so on such a new vehicle.
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7th Dec 2011 3:15am |
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| Scallops Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: Brisbane Australia Posts: 89
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After reading this thread, I thought I'd check out my vehicle!
Maybe I can offer the OP this.....
I took a look at the underside of my bellhousing last night after a 25km drive home, and low and behold, there was a single tear drip of what looks like engine oil in the same vicinity! But it had not come from the breather hole - it was at the junction of the cast main bellhousing and the iron front assembly directly in front of that hole. I am quite sure the substance is not engine oil, transmission oil nor clutch fluid. What you might need to do is this. Get a metric 13 socket, a socket extender, and tighten up the bellhousing bolts that go from the rear of the cast housing towards the front of the housing and into the iron section at the front. The bolts I'm referring to are clearly shown on your first picture to the left and right of the "stain" area. These bolts hold the cast and iron parts together, and some of mine were loose! After tightening them up, I drove 50km and rechecked - it's all clear. I reckon my "oil" (and maybe what you saw) is the gasket goo or grease (or crud!) between the cast and iron assemblies that has become somewhat liquid and ran due to the housing bolts being slightly loose and the high heat of these parts. Check yours - if you get a quarter turn as I did on some of the bolts, nip them up, wipe it all up and take a test drive drive and recheck. Hopefully your situation is as I describe. Just can't see a rear main going on a Puma yet.  |
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8th Dec 2011 1:54am |
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| TheTechnobear Member Since: 28 Jan 2011 Location: Guadix, Spain Posts: 54
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Thanks for that, I will have a check.
(after sorting out the overfill I'd been just keeping an eye on it until I can find a mechanic who can give the truck a good look over , including this... also want to see if there are ecu faults registered) |
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8th Dec 2011 5:28pm |
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| Scallops Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: Brisbane Australia Posts: 89
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So - what did you find? Checking the bolts is trivial! |
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11th Dec 2011 10:06pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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LR90XS2011 is exactly right. That is the bell-housing which attaches the gearbox housing to the engine. It also protects the flywheel and clutch. Clutch fluid- All clutch items (which contain oil) are on the outside of the bell housing therefore there shouldn't be any clutch fluid inside there. Engine oil- This ie exactly what it will be. The hole is there so that oil from the crank seal doesn't accumulate in the bell housing and get all over your clutch. It also gives you a visual warning that the seal is letting oil past. Older models used to have a threaded hole which you would put a 'wading plug' in when going through water- but people were known to leave them in and the bell-housing over time would fill up with engine oil. If you are in warranty book her in straight away and get it sorted. Otherwise, start saving the pennies to get the work done when it gets bad.... might be a good idea to change the clutch whilst you are in there if the car is over 3 years old (you have to remove the housing and plate when getting to the seal). Hope this helps, Glyn   |
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12th Dec 2011 8:24am |
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| TheTechnobear Member Since: 28 Jan 2011 Location: Guadix, Spain Posts: 54
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@scallops, nuts were tight
Glyn, its out of warrant, its a late 2007. So, I'll watch the oil level, once I'm loosing more oil it needs crank seal needs fixing. You say start saving the pennies, sounds expensive ... Any idea rough cost of parts, and man hours ? Thanks guys |
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12th Dec 2011 3:13pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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Crank seal will set you back about £10-30 depending on who manufactured it. The main cost will be labour as this will involve the removal of the T/box, G/box, clutch and flywheel...... in UK I would estimate anything from £400-1000 depending on the place.
Then of course you might as well change your 4 year old clutch (unless it was changed under warranty at some point). Which will set you back about £150-200. Do you have any mechanical skills/ equipment? The job is an easy one which is just a case of taking things off and then re-assembling it... probably one good days work. Glyn |
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12th Dec 2011 3:44pm |
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