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Sk1ppy



Member Since: 19 Dec 2022
Location: Newbury
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 
Intermittent electric window fault
Hi - drivers window on my 2010 Puma 90 intermittently doesn’t work. I’ve swapped the switch with the passenger side so I know both switches work. I’m guessing it’s wiring related, any tips on where to start trouble shooting?
Post #982189 12th Feb 2023 5:52pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1210

United Kingdom 
Hi
I had the same and then it stopped all together.

I did the following -

Remove the door trim and vapour barrier
Unplug the wire connection to the motor (fiddly but possible
Pull the rubber ducting out of the door post
Carefully pull out the wires until you see both connectors, one is for the central locking the other the window.
Check the continuity on both wires.

On mine the red wire had failed somewhere in the middle of the runner ducting so I pulled a replacement wire to bypass the original.

Job done.

Fiddly but hope this helps. 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #982193 12th Feb 2023 6:07pm
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Sk1ppy



Member Since: 19 Dec 2022
Location: Newbury
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 
Thanks
Post #982194 12th Feb 2023 6:12pm
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HTB



Member Since: 24 Mar 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 71

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Buckingham Blue
It a feature.

I think it’s normally the central locking that goes first due to the flexing of the cable, and normally on the drivers side as that’s the door that gets used most…. So, whilst you’re in there, double double check for cracked insulation on all of the wiring.
Post #982201 12th Feb 2023 6:47pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2081

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
seriesonenut wrote:
Hi
I had the same and then it stopped all together.

I did the following -

Remove the door trim and vapour barrier
Unplug the wire connection to the motor (fiddly but possible
Pull the rubber ducting out of the door post
Carefully pull out the wires until you see both connectors, one is for the central locking the other the window.
Check the continuity on both wires.

On mine the red wire had failed somewhere in the middle of the runner ducting so I pulled a replacement wire to bypass the original.

Job done.

Fiddly but hope this helps.


That’s exactly where mine failed many years back. Soldered the break and covered in heat shrink. Been fine ever since Thumbs Up
Post #982204 12th Feb 2023 7:21pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1210

United Kingdom 
still not sure where the break was (other than somewhere in the middle) but as I had some wire to hand I did not bother to look.

I also added some sound deadening to the door skin and gave the bottom of the door a good spray of ACF-50 as well.

I only broke one clip in getting the door card off. Just waiting for some tiger seal to re seal the vapour barrier before I can pop the card on.

I am using it without at the moment, an even more basic look Whistle 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #982208 12th Feb 2023 8:09pm
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