 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > sound proofing TDCI |
 
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| Snowy90 Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 482   
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Always a good place to start
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22nd Mar 2022 3:17pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5829  
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Very much liking the sound of that (pardon the pun). Looked it up, a reduction of 25db apparently. I’ve silent coated mine, certainly stopped rattling, and in certain areas added acoustic foam. Will be adding new Exmoor Trim premium carpet as well. Might see how that goes and whether this stuff is worth adding to the footwells. Also, as pointed out, trying to get rid of ingress through door seals etc is worth a bit of time and thought. I’d suggest the majority of my sound, in order, comes from gearbox, engine, tyres, air gaps. Be interested to know how much the carpet will address gearbox and engine. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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22nd Mar 2022 3:45pm |
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| MikeSel Member Since: 21 Mar 2022 Location: UK Posts: 10 
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Ive done the back of my 90 with Kilmat 2mm and dodo super liner 6mm. Will be doing the front once I’ve resolved some water ingress issue.
Definitely feels like it’s made a difference. An I’ve not yet done the roof!  Click image to enlarge |
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25th Mar 2022 2:00pm |
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| Macleaa Member Since: 29 Oct 2017 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13  
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I used noisekiller.
I just did the rear tub floor and sides and seat boxes (internally) and front footwells on a 2015 90 HT XS. Everything was pre cut to size and was a good fit. Found that this alone made a significant difference and haven’t proceeded any further eg underbonnet. https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/noisekiller/ |
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25th Mar 2022 2:54pm |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47  
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i did the underbonnet, but I didn't really detect any difference in this case
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25th Mar 2022 3:21pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3757
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I used Silent coat after doing the research and watching this....
The only bit I Have not done is the roof. I would say the doors are the biggest difference. Up to 40mph it does seem to make a difference after that, wind, diff, wheels, everything else adds to the noise so its not as obvious... I used silent cost 2mm and them a soft cell foam 8mm on top, then the carpets.. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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25th Mar 2022 3:41pm |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47
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I am surprised that you have seen a good difference with the doors, it is good news since I have not done that work yet, so I see that I can continue to improve
On the other hand, it amuses me that I have also seen those videos where they show that only a small soundproffing panel is needed to improve sound and vibrations, but then we cover the panels completely, I have already done that too... |
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25th Mar 2022 4:25pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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it's worth noting that on these demonstrations they have large flat panels which 'ring' very well, and also where a small amount of deadening in them makes a huge difference. it's the 'perfect' scenario.
Yes, the principle transfers reasonably well to our defenders, but increased coverage (even double layers) does continue to give reductions in noise. It's just diminishing returns on your investment. I've always understood the general sweet spot to be around 50% coverage for the best benefit for minimum cost. That said, I go for something much closer to 100% coverage, and at times may even double layer if I have offcuts to use up. The deadening is comparatively cheap, and if I've gone to the trouble to strip out the interior, then I want to make it the best I can. It's also pretty quick to install once you're in there, so no harm adding a bit more. What it does show is that if you have a section that's very difficult to get to, or you can't fit something in, then don't worry about it. A small gap in the deadening won't matter. As others have said above, the matting primarily removes resonance in the panel, you need another layer in order to stop the transmitted sounds. Closed cell foam, (various brands available) will help hugely when combined with the matting. I did have a car that was fully lined with something similar to the TECSOUND product, and it was very quiet, but it was done before I had it, and so couldn't give a direct comparison. I'd certainly give it a go in the future though. The main point here is that in something as noisy as a defender, every little helps. When I first deadened my front doors I could tell the difference. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. the same with the roof. there's no golden bullet, but it all helps. wind noise from the drivers door seal is my main bugbear now. I'm going to try new rubbers and see if I can improve it ! |
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25th Mar 2022 6:45pm |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47
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That's how you say it, if we take the trouble to disassemble, then we put all the insulation we can!
I was able to discover the wind noises in the doors with the technique of turning on a powerful reflector inside the passenger compartment, and thus discover the small open spaces |
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25th Mar 2022 7:15pm |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47
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by the way, here in our argentinian Land Rover forum, some people reasonably laugh at me, saying, " but after all you have bought a defender , they come with noises, its their dna"
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25th Mar 2022 7:19pm |
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| DSB Member Since: 02 Mar 2014 Location: Rutland Posts: 55 
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Just had mine sound proofed, and it makes a big difference. I'm sure there are price/performance differences between brands but its worth doing. Its the road noise mainly that is vastly improved, but you still get the distinctive diesel sound to remind you its a defender. The tell tale for me is the volume on the radio, I used to raise and lower it constantly with the speed, now it just stays at the same setting.
So, if anyone is searching for a non technical opinion if its worth the cost/effort, the answer in my opinion is yes. |
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21st Jan 2023 9:18am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3643 
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Just realised I didnt update this
well I did the whole car in stages with Dymamat (expensive) and another brand of thermal barrier it was basically quite easy, although I did buy a pre cut kit for the bonnet, I cut the rest myself from sheets with a scalpel (several scapels) and 1m long rule, it worked really well, I avoided covering screws and fixings and panel joints for future maintenance reasons. I did not do the bulkhead behind the dash or the other side as I didn't fancy removing the dash. The hardest bit of the job was actually refitting the rear head lining on my own especially as I was over enthusiastic with the thermal barrier that stopped a good fit and trimming that to get the head lining back up once stuck down was a mare. Total job time was about 8 hours spread over several weekends and there were a few points when I wished I hadnt started like when trying to fit the head lining and shorting the interior light (mental note remove fuse before starting next time) After multiple trips in the car since I did it I can confirm it was well worth the approx £400 in materials, and time spent, I can now chat with the MRS at motorway speeds without raised voices, the radio is on a lower setting and loads of rattles and bangs have gone. I would definitely recommend doing it as the 90 is just so much nicer to drive and the doors shut with a thud rather than a rattle, you can feel the weight in them. Back to the bonnet and it was the last thing I did, it did actually surprisingly make a small but noticeable difference, however if I knew then what I know now I wouldn't have bothered, it is just so heavy and probably 50% of the dynamat on the bonnet would have worked and been much cheaper than the bonnet kit, I could have done it perhaps not so neatly cutting left overs to fit the various bits you can get to. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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21st Jan 2023 11:19am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
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Adding my contribution to this thread...
I decided to take the plunge and get the bulkhead soundproofed. My truck is a TD5 but I have installed a full Puma interior, so with the dash removed I had the bulkhead vents permanently sealed and Silent Coat applied everywhere with a real focus on filling any small gaps Click image to enlarge Then I had Dodo Thermo Liner applied to the bulkhead, floor and seatboxes. I went for Thermo Liner to give some heat insulation against the excessive heat that comes through the floor on very long trips. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Not many people talk about soundproofing the tunnel...when I swapped my TD5 tunnel for the Puma tunnel the noise levels went up considerably. It's going into the workshop on Wednesday to have the tunnel removed, thick closed cell foam applied inside the tunnel and then we're going to look from underneath to see if there's anything else that can be done to limit sound ingress theough the tunnel and turret area. Once this is done I'm going to fit the Wright Offroad matting and I hope at that point I am 'done', at least in the front! Would be interesting if a few of us took sound readings from the cab at tickover and different RPM to see the different results. I'll post mine once I get the mats fitted.. TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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21st Jan 2023 1:48pm |
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