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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
in case anyone is till interested i got this working - all i needed was the fuse in the right place in the steering wheel box. its the very bottom one on the left hand side (image has a stereo, below heated seats) Ed.
Post #978517 17th Jan 2023 1:12pm
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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
its p21. 10 amp

Ed
Post #978518 17th Jan 2023 1:15pm
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Ashbyandy



Member Since: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 222

England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Adventure Phoenix Orange
Martin wrote:
I do a loom for the LR version of the sub Whistle


Click image to enlarge


Hi Martin,

Can you still supply this lead, and let me know how much it is,

Thanks

Ashbyandy
Post #1032132 19th Apr 2024 11:28am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6601

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Yes, on site shop: https://defender2.net/shop/defender-alpine...-p120.html  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #1032135 19th Apr 2024 12:10pm
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xrodney



Member Since: 09 Jun 2024
Location: Malta
Posts: 8

 
Re: OEM Alpine Subwoofer Wiring
Ihod wrote:
I’ve taken the plunge and bought a take-off Alpine SWE-1200 sub. It’s the LR model with integrated amp and a single connector (below):


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I was hoping when I took out the cubby I would find the appropriate connector - some on the forum have been lucky - but there’s nothing there (and nothing under the cover).

So my question is, is there a loom/harness I can buy (I’ve searched the diagrams and nothing appears and no obvious part number)?

Paul, can you make a full harness?

Or do I cut the connector off and pull the L, R and remote to the dash and the power through to the battery box? This would need to be fused?

I’m no auto electrician so has anyone done this or managed to source the harness?

Many thanks
Post #1036981 9th Jun 2024 8:33pm
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xrodney



Member Since: 09 Jun 2024
Location: Malta
Posts: 8

 
Ashbyandy wrote:
Martin wrote:
I do a loom for the LR version of the sub Whistle


Click image to enlarge


Hi Martin,

Can you still supply this lead, and let me know how much it is,

Thanks

Ashbyandy


Can you supply only the top part?
Post #1036983 9th Jun 2024 8:38pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6601

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Drop me a PM Smile  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #1036984 9th Jun 2024 9:02pm
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xrodney



Member Since: 09 Jun 2024
Location: Malta
Posts: 8

 
Done
Post #1036986 9th Jun 2024 9:13pm
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Crash7



Member Since: 21 Feb 2024
Location: South
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 
Farmerben wrote:
Mine had the wiring all there but when I hooked it all up it still wasn’t working. Couldn’t figure it out so took it to local autoelectrics place figured out it needed separate power to the sub.


Farmerben, are you able to provide more information on the fix you mention above?


As opposed to start a new thread I have revived this as there is a heap of good info.

I have an MY14 90 Hardtop that had the factory wiring under the cubby, I installed the factory LR Alpine amp and connected, I also connected the cable behind the headunit, 2 x RCA and a grey plug into the existing harness.

The 10amp fuse is present but the sub does not operate.

However, I am running a non-stardard headunit, Stinger Heigh 10, which may be part of the problem? - The RCA are connected to the sub-out RCA's and the Sub is switched on in the Stinger menu, but the sub does not operate.

Any input appreciated Thumbs Up
Post #1041786 3rd Aug 2024 8:24pm
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Crash7



Member Since: 21 Feb 2024
Location: South
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 
leonvh wrote:
My 2013 Defender came with the factory subwoofer. From almost new I switched to an Alpine flip-out head-unit. All worked fine on that. From what I remember I just connected the 2 RCA's behind the head-unit for audio and nothing else. Used the Mudstuff ISO adapter for all other wiring.

Recently I changed to a new head-unit, but I cannot get the subwoofer to work. The only difference is that the head-unit has only a single subwoofer RCA output, so I bought and fitted a Y-adapter. But still no sound from the subwoofer.

From the plug at the subwoofer I do measure 12v. Does anyone have an idea what I'm missing here? Does the subwoofer need a 'wake-up' signal just like amplifiers? Does it maybe have a fuse inside the unit that I might have broken with my tinkering?

Would appreciate any help here. Next step would be to get Martin's loom to bypass all existing wiring, but his shop is still closed.



leonvh, did you solve this issue in regards to the sub not working with a new headunit? Are you able to share any information? - Thanks
Post #1041787 3rd Aug 2024 8:26pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20270

United Kingdom 
I’m not sure what the LR system is, but normally you’ll have a left and right rca for stereo, then fused live and ground and a 12v rmt.

The 12v rmt is fused or should be fused 300mA fast blow fuse is ideal just behind the head unit in-line on blue white, it turns on the amp where the head unit has an audio output.

Some Amps don’t need it as they signal since the RCA input but the most reliable is the Rmt12v method.
I’d imagine LR used the 12v remote method within their loom, if it’s not connected then you’ll have no audio and the Amp won’t come of.
Unless there is a blown fuse, which can be blown accidentally but if it’s in-tact then it’s not that.

If you do find you need to connect the blue white stripe rmt12v, then do fuse it near the head unit because if you don’t you could fry your HU or worse.

If there is any connectors ensure they are clean, and fully connected home and not loose or partially connected.
Thumbs Up
Post #1041793 3rd Aug 2024 8:59pm
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Andyslandytd5



Member Since: 06 Nov 2021
Location: Southampton
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Montalcino Red
Crash7 wrote:
Farmerben wrote:
Mine had the wiring all there but when I hooked it all up it still wasn’t working. Couldn’t figure it out so took it to local autoelectrics place figured out it needed separate power to the sub.


Farmerben, are you able to provide more information on the fix you mention above?


As opposed to start a new thread I have revived this as there is a heap of good info.

I have an MY14 90 Hardtop that had the factory wiring under the cubby, I installed the factory LR Alpine amp and connected, I also connected the cable behind the headunit, 2 x RCA and a grey plug into the existing harness.

The 10amp fuse is present but the sub does not operate.

However, I am running a non-stardard headunit, Stinger Heigh 10, which may be part of the problem? - The RCA are connected to the sub-out RCA's and the Sub is switched on in the Stinger menu, but the sub does not operate.

Any input appreciated Thumbs Up


Hi Crash, I have the factory Sub woofer and am thinking of going for the Stinger head unit. Did you get yours working in the end? Previous LR
2004 TD5 90 XS Station Wagon
2003 TD5 90 G4 LE
1990 Ninety 6.2 V8 Station Wagon
Post #1044317 30th Aug 2024 1:38pm
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Crash7



Member Since: 21 Feb 2024
Location: South
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 
Give me a little longer, I have been talking to Mud, whom I bought my Heigh10 from, they have been fantastic, I have what I am told is a solution..,

You need to provide an ignition feed from the Heigh10 to power the amp. Connect the P-Control wire on the Heigh10 to the BLUE wire on the factory sub wiring under the cubby box.

I have not tried this yet, but am planning to at some point!
Post #1044515 1st Sep 2024 8:43pm
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Andyslandytd5



Member Since: 06 Nov 2021
Location: Southampton
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Montalcino Red
Okay great will wait to see how you get on Thumbs Up Previous LR
2004 TD5 90 XS Station Wagon
2003 TD5 90 G4 LE
1990 Ninety 6.2 V8 Station Wagon
Post #1044565 2nd Sep 2024 1:09pm
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xrodney



Member Since: 09 Jun 2024
Location: Malta
Posts: 8

 
How do you go from under the cubby to the battery compartment without drilling any holes in the seatbox? Thanks
Post #1044788 4th Sep 2024 3:05pm
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