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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Dinnu wrote:
Maybe is irrespective of brand (or perhaps the good ones have better internals), it is a good idea to release the pressure from the spring (set torque setting to 0) when it needs to be stored away.


I have always thought that regarding storage until i read IanH post..and link.

https://www.norbar.com/News-Events/Blog/Ar...que-wrench

What do most people on here do! do regarding storage is it zero?or a light tension just above zero?
Post #974335 12th Dec 2022 9:23am
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andyg0141



Member Since: 25 Feb 2022
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Rimini Red
I have 3 of the Halfords ones in various sizes and you cant beat them. I always put them back to the min torque marking (sure that's what the instructions said to do...)
Post #974338 12th Dec 2022 9:34am
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Leamreject



Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa
Posts: 969

Italy 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Fuji White
[quote="callumgodfrey"]I use a Halfords 1/2 inch and it's very good (I use it every day at work) and passes calibration every 6 months.


Where do you get them calibrated and what sort of cost?

Thanks Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do…
2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT
Post #974339 12th Dec 2022 9:37am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17339

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
nitram17 wrote:
Dinnu wrote:
... it is a good idea to release the pressure from the spring (set torque setting to 0) when it needs to be stored away.


I have always thought that regarding storage until i read IanH post..and link.

https://www.norbar.com/News-Events/Blog/Ar...que-wrench

What do most people on here do! do regarding storage is it zero?or a light tension just above zero?


I have always unwound my Britool fleet to the point where there is no tension on the internal springs but no so far that they rattle. I can't remember if that advice is written in the instructions for the tools or not but it was certainly conditioned into me when I started spannering (along with many other old-school good practices ).
Post #974342 12th Dec 2022 9:42am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2637

Scotland 
I have two Teng ones - one small and one large - and an ancient Britool one from my fathers apprentice days at RAE Farnborough. They all work well.

I do the same as Blackwolf in terms of storage.
Post #974408 12th Dec 2022 3:02pm
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Jabberwocky



Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Luxembourg
Posts: 222

Luxembourg 
I have the Halfords 1/2 inch, comes in a foam lined case to protect it, all good so far.
Post #974463 12th Dec 2022 7:13pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
I have an old Norbar 1/2 unit that I was given. I did a self calibration with weights positioned at the correct distance and it checked OK. Not very high torque though, not much above alloy wheel nut torque. This is OK for most things.

When I swapped my axle cases I needed a higher setting and I actually managed to get a 220nm one for £15 from Aldi! (They were on offer). It comes with certification and seems to work OK. I suppose unless you get them calibrated regularly you won't know how accurate they are, but better than me guessing.

I also recently got a Bluespot 1/4" 2-22nm which I got for £18 delivered - again came with calibration certificate.

Probably a bit more budget than you folks, but for how often I will use them they will be better than my "best guess " approach! Also unless you get them calibrated I am not sure how you would assume accuracy.

The Aldi one stays in my car for fitting wheels in case of puncture etc. Comes in a box with three sockets and a small extension so in actual fact worked out cheaper than an extended wheel brace.
Post #974528 13th Dec 2022 10:51am
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callumgodfrey



Member Since: 21 Feb 2016
Location: warwickshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 
[quote="Leamreject"]
callumgodfrey wrote:
I use a Halfords 1/2 inch and it's very good (I use it every day at work) and passes calibration every 6 months.


Where do you get them calibrated and what sort of cost?

Thanks


I'm a Landrover mechanic by trade so work pays for Caltec to come and calibrate every 6 months
Post #974964 17th Dec 2022 11:31am
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

As a business i understand the need to demonstrate that your tools are keep it up to spec.but as a DIYer who only works on my own cars i am quite happy to believe the validity of my torque wrench settings and leave it at that!My OCD is kept at bay that way and as of yet nothing has snapped or dropped off yet!
Post #974969 17th Dec 2022 12:46pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1981

United Kingdom 
Accuracy is more important at the lower torque settings, I.e if you are 1Nm out on a 20Nm setting it’s 10 times more inaccurate than being 1Nm out on a 200Nm setting.

In general most DIY mechanics go for one torque wrench that covers the widest range of torque settings they can get. The trouble is for the cheap wide range torque wrenches it’s the lower end torque settings that are most inaccurate.

Therefore it’s better to go for two torque wrenches , one for low, one for high with an overlap of settings. Especially if you are on a budget and not looking to purchase a quality Britool, Norbar or Halfords advanced (Norbar) wrench.
Post #974974 17th Dec 2022 1:14pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
nitram17 wrote:
As a business i understand the need to demonstrate that your tools are keep it up to spec.but as a DIYer who only works on my own cars i am quite happy to believe the validity of my torque wrench settings and leave it at that!My OCD is kept at bay that way and as of yet nothing has snapped or dropped off yet!


You can do a crude calibration using a weight at a set distance. If you do an Internet or YouTube search it should explain how to do it.
Post #975028 17th Dec 2022 10:22pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Ianh wrote:
Accuracy is more important at the lower torque settings, I.e if you are 1Nm out on a 20Nm setting it’s 10 times more inaccurate than being 1Nm out on a 200Nm setting.

In general most DIY mechanics go for one torque wrench that covers the widest range of torque settings they can get. The trouble is for the cheap wide range torque wrenches it’s the lower end torque settings that are most inaccurate.

Therefore it’s better to go for two torque wrenches , one for low, one for high with an overlap of settings. Especially if you are on a budget and not looking to purchase a quality Britool, Norbar or Halfords advanced (Norbar) wrench.


Are you an engineer Ianh?I have only really started to used a torque wrench recently( except for cylinder heads bolts) (im not sure why)and previously i would guestimate the torque level from experience. I know my ocd is much happier knowing i have torqued a bolt to 30 nm but i really doubt it would destroy the fabric of the universe if said bolt was torqued to 25 or 35 nm. I have three torque wrenches to cover 0-250nm and i will continue to use them but i will keep in mind that the readings may not be as accurate as they could be but will assume the tolerant defender can cope !
Post #975031 17th Dec 2022 11:51pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1981

United Kingdom 
Most mechanics over the years have built up a “feel” for the right level of torque to apply to a given fixing for a given application with a spanner or socket with ratchet or bar.
Even more so when endeavouring to remove a bolt , nut or stud. We have all gauged that point where we “feel” we are about to shear a fixing or strip a thread, stopped and looked at using penetrating fluid, heat, cold , an impact wrench or a combination of those methods.

I’ve tested my “feel” by tightening by feel and checking with a torque wrench , measuring both tightening and loosening with the torque wrench. In my case the “feel” I have gained when tightening a fixing results in a little higher torque applied in low torque applications and a greater level of under torque on high torque applications. With the exception of very low torque settings where I’m under by about 15%, I guess I’m worried about thread stripping. I expect it’s same for most others.
NB perhaps we could poll of people to see if it’s the same for them.

Many other variables are at play as well. Temperatures, how clean the threads are, how accurate the fixing has been manufactured against its speciation, if any lubricant is present etc. So even with a torque wrench you can’t be completely accurate.

So in essence in a lot of cases if you have your “feel” right you are ok, however if you have a torque wrench and room to use it then use it as there is no real downside in doing so.
Post #975059 18th Dec 2022 1:57pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Thumbs Up what i was trying to say is that im not to concerned that my torque wrenches have not been calibrated since the day i bought them!
Post #975066 18th Dec 2022 4:31pm
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