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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301   
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When I first fired the engine after reassembly there was an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold to EGR connection. The bolts were not tight enough and that was with a gasket so I imagine it would be a pig to seal without the gasket
I also went for a gasket where LR do not specify one - between the turbo and the downpipe. Possibly not required as on the low pressure side but can't hurt being in there > 110 XS Double Cab |
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29th Sep 2022 12:53pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444 
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You're right about the oil drain pipe, it's a real pain to refit! Because I needed to Helicoil the four front-most manifold fasteners I also had to remove the ridiculous alternator mounting bracket for access, so that meant the fan, drive belt, and alternator had to come off.
I think it should be possible to slacken off the EGR cooler to slot a gasket in without disturbing the manifold. |
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29th Sep 2022 1:15pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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Yeah there is a flanged joint in the EGR on the inlet side of the engine which will give you enough wiggle room to slip the gasket in at the other end. In typical Puma fashion access is a swine but it is doable - I backed these bolts off to slip in an EGR blanking plate way back. > 110 XS Double Cab
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29th Sep 2022 1:53pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444
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I know what you mean about access, it beats me how on such a large vehicle with a relatively large engine bay the designers have managed to make almost every job horrible and painful by making access so awkward! It makes working on a Series One pleasant. I have an Entreq full width gearbox/fuel cooler guard which also makes access from underneath even harder, as well as providing an inaccessible place for anything you drop to lodge.
It makes me laugh that there will be fittings you cannot even see, but just about get to with half of one hand, and which no normal tool will fit, and the manual then says "torque to 22Nm".  It would be so much easier if you could easily take the front wings off, but even that is horrible and awkward.
And still we love our Defenders!  |
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29th Sep 2022 2:59pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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I have recently experienced an issue where intermittently the engine will have no power and no revs - resulting in me doing 10mph along the M4
and the engine conking out at idle once.
Frustratingly the ECU did not log any fault codes. I checked for anything obvious under the bonnet and fuel lines but couldn't see anything. Given that the turbo is brand new it had to be fuel related so I tried a high pressure pump reset via the BAS tool which completed fine. Followed by a pilot injector learn which kept failing. This is where the wild goose chase started - given that I recently replaced the VCV and the high pressure pump reset procedure completed fine I disregarded the VCV as being at fault... I did some data logging using my BAS tool which showed fuel pressure to be dropping right off and flatlining. As part of this wild goose chase replaced (with genuine parts) the MAP, MAF, cylinder heat temperature sensor, fuel filter (and hand bled the system) and clutch switch (and bled the system)  Click image to enlarge I did some research and given it was a fuel pressure issue replaced the fuel pressure relief valve with quick release tail as well as the fuel pressure sensor - both with genuine parts (no pic of the fuel pressure sensor) Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge This did not solve the issue and given that the pilot injector learn kept failing I wondered if an injector was faulty, causing the ECU to shut down fuel pressure. I was running out of ideas as the only fuel system component that I hadn't replaced was the engine loom. The injectors are less than a year old but I ordered a leak off kit to test them and rule them out as faulty. In the meantime I spoke with forum member MartinK who suggested I try another VCV. I ordered and fitted another genuine DENSO VCV (part 294009-0260) and low and behold the issue is resolved. I have read on Transit forums that a certain online supplier resells cheap knockoff VCV's badged up as genuine DENSO. This supplier is indeed the one that supplied my my recent VCV so I wonder whether I unknowingly bought a cheap knockoff given that it lasted just ten months. Lesson learned - always start with VCV when troubleshooting fuelling issues. At least the Defender now has pretty much all new sensors throughout
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab |
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7th Oct 2022 1:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444
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ALWAYS change the VCV if you have a problem which appear to be fuel related and there are no DTCs. Nine times out of ten it will be the culprit, and on the tenth time the worst that happens if you now have a spare.
It is legendary for causing weird and irritating pseudorandom faults. |
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7th Oct 2022 1:58pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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Indeed. I don’t know how many blackwolf posts I must have read advising “replace the VCV”
I thought given that mine was relatively new it would be fine. How wrong I was > 110 XS Double Cab |
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8th Oct 2022 8:01am |
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| Welshsurferdude Member Since: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Newport Posts: 2415
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Did u do the glow plugs on this?
I think I need to do mine as my truck is a  in the cold mornings, it splutters knocks on overrun and sometimes can cut out and restart until it warms up enough it stops after 7 miles and doesn't occur again until next cold start 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)
2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS 2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold) 2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold) |
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8th Oct 2022 8:49am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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Did the glow plugs on mine a year or two ago - inlet manifold needs to come off. I can give you a hand if you want?
On mine the glow plug fuse had popped under the drivers seat - see here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic81190.html > 110 XS Double Cab |
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8th Oct 2022 12:25pm |
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| Welshsurferdude Member Since: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Newport Posts: 2415
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Yeah that would be lovely if you can show me the way to replace em, I will order the new glow plugs this week. 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)
2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS 2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold) 2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold) |
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9th Oct 2022 6:24am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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Parking brake performance deteriorated beyond adjustment recently so I put in a pair of new brake shoes.
Ordered a pair of Delphi brake shoes online (part ICW500010) but was erroneously supplied part STC2990 for older defenders  typically I didn't realise until everything was stripped down
Luckily a local motor factors saved the day with a pair in stock. Another fiddly job getting the spring/cup arrangement fastened but only took around an hour from start to finish. The Defender prop shaft socket is a god send Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab |
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17th Oct 2022 10:19am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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The transfer box failed recently shearing some teeth internally somewhere.
I rebuilt it two and a half years / 15,000 miles ago so wonder whether I did something wrong reassembling? There was plenty of oil in it - filled a 2 litre pop bottle plus about quarter of a pint. This time I have left it to the professionals and ordered a build from Ashcroft with sleeved casing and HD cross pin. Three week lead time so gives me some time to the broken one off. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab |
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23rd Nov 2022 8:56am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Oooooo
.... 
I remember the moment all too well when I pulled the drain plug out of Miffs R380 to find bits of teeth and bearing. Ashcroft to the rescue... No ATB then?! |
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23rd Nov 2022 9:01am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301
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I did consider it, but given the £1200 cost for an ashcroft LT230 plus the £500 I spent rebuilding it two and a half years ago I couldn't stomach the further £400 odd for an ATB - particularly as 99.99% of my driving is on road.
On the rare occasions I find myself in wheelspin/planet gears friction welding to cross pin conditions (snow or off road) I am happy to shift into diff lock. ATB's in the axles perhaps in future, but open/locked diff in the transfer box is sufficient for my purposes > 110 XS Double Cab |
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23rd Nov 2022 10:34am |
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