 | Home > My Defender > 20 year wait over |
 
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87   
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Phase one of swapping from truck cab back to its original SW form started today.
No better time to go topless than in a heatwave. I’m gonna take some convincing to put a roof back on! Took it round the block and it’s so much fun like this.  Click image to enlarge |
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11th Aug 2022 9:29pm |
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87
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Just for my own records and far less interesting, there is now zero surface rust under the car. There was only really any on the back axle but I went around and dabbed hydrate 80 on anything that was even thinking about beginning to rust, couple of hidden bits on the tub straps for example, and did a full coat on the axle/diff below:
Little before and after: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Now I’m happy that there’s nothing left to creep I’m going to fully lanoguard it. With the LG I appreciate it’s not necessary to go around with Bilt Hamber first but I feel more comfortable with a two pronged approach. I’m determined to keep it as rust free as I can (within reason of course). |
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11th Aug 2022 9:55pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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Looks good, enjoy the experience, from a fellow Northwestener.
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12th Aug 2022 8:50am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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Time for some new rear bump stops
The underside looks as good as the bodywork  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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12th Aug 2022 9:49am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843 
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Did you spray on the rust converter or apply with a brush? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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12th Aug 2022 10:00am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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Hydrate-80 should be applied sparingly by brush, 2 coats , 30 mins between first and second coat, and second coat brushed 90 degrees to the first. whenever applied to pitted surfaces you stipple with end of brush to ensure it gets into the pitted area.
I’ve used this on several vehicles and it does a great lasting job that does not show brush marks as It has a very low viscosity. For chassis or anything under the body I then topcoat with corroless chassis paint in one which can be spray ( available in spray cans) or brush applied. |
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12th Aug 2022 1:06pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843
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Cheers. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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12th Aug 2022 1:11pm |
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87
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Thanks all! Yes applied by brush as above. Great stuff, very easy to use (if you don’t knock over half the bottle and then roll into the puddle).
What have you seen regarding bump stops? Is that the bottom of the shocks? I’m tempted by fox shocks so don’t give me any excuses. Today I took off the mangled mud console that came fitted to it. Good news and bad… The good is that there is some wiring there, which I’m hoping is for a radio. (Although there’s no aerial, nor is the single remaining speaker connected to anything) Click image to enlarge I also refitted the wiring to the cig lighter to power a stick-in USB. Proud of working that one out. The bad news is that someone has absolutely butchered the lower dash 😭 Click image to enlarge I had actually wanted to totally remove the console, back to original and go for an invisible audio installation but that’s out the window now unless I replace the bottom dash - I’m assuming this could be tricky. Option B is to hide it with a new non-broken mud console, embrace it, and fit a double din. Hmm. |
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12th Aug 2022 8:10pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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The first photo in your third post shows the rear offside bump stop to be missing altogether. It should be attached to the plate on the bottom of the chassis rail where the axle would hit if the suspension bottoms out.
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12th Aug 2022 8:44pm |
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87
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Edit for getting mixed up.
Would that be this bit here? Click image to enlarge Thanks for letting me know. |
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12th Aug 2022 9:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
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Aha, you edited that whilst I was marking up your photo! That's the thing.
The thing you highlighted initially is the mount for the rear anti-roll bar, if fitted. The bump stop mount is highlighted in the picture below. Click image to enlarge |
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12th Aug 2022 9:47pm |
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87
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Perfect thank you - I’ll add that to the list!
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12th Aug 2022 10:49pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Aug 2022 4:36am |
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| Dave12345 Member Since: 04 Jun 2022 Location: North West Posts: 87
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Hardtop successfully on - back to its original SW form.
I’m normally found in the wild but treated ourselves to a proper campsite this weekend with some mates. Nothing fell off on the twisty welsh roads which I’ll take as a positive. The roof needs some paint but I’m in no rush. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by Dave12345 on 23rd Aug 2022 6:12pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd Aug 2022 11:10am |
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