 | Home > Td5 > Discovery 'short stick' R380 into Defender TD5? |
 
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2227   
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I think you'll find that rather than moving back toward the cubby, it'll come out through the cubby ! Perfectly doable but not ideal.
HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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18th Aug 2022 6:18pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2769
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How do the vent flaps work with the Puma dash. Do you have to fix them
in the closed position or have you found a way to make them useable? Loss of the vent flaps was the worst thing about Defender tdci. |
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18th Aug 2022 7:37pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
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I have the vent flaps connected to electric actuators so you push a button to open and close them. It looks quite cool when you see it, but it just directs the air behind the dash, which is OK but not ideal.
I will likely seal them up permanently as part of an aircon upgrade in a couple of months time. |
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19th Aug 2022 7:57am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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Deleted
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19th Aug 2022 11:45am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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Thought I'd update on this in case anyone else is as foolish as me in attempting this....
I bought an R380 to Puma gear stick adapter kit from Synchro Gearboxes (the chaps who make the excellent Slick Shift) https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product...rsion-kit/ I then bought various additional bits from eBay as you can see from the picture  Click image to enlarge Only then did I realise that this kit is designed for someone doing the full monty where the front bulkhead is also updated to Puma spec. Ahh... my bulkhead is TD5 still, so I think this means some custom work to get the transmission tunnel and gaiter to match together nicely e.g I'll need to keep as much of the R380 tunnel cover as possible and then fix the Puma gaiter in place over the gear levers. When I say "I"... what I mean is my new landy mechanic! Having just moved house to a new area, this is the first job for my new go-to man. He spent almost 20 years working at LR so I am hoping that by now nothing phases him! I'll update as things progress (or not). We're due to start first week in November.... PS - Apologes for the blue carpet in the pic... like I said, I just moved house!  |
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10th Oct 2022 4:41pm |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 712 
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I’ve fitted the same kit, I ditched the r380 tunnel and bought the puma tunnel, part number LR057161.
Initially I bought the tunnel with the part number that preceded that at around £60 but was soon told by a couple of suppliers that in true LR fashion the part was superseded and would now be £100 more 
I was going to make my own tunnel but thought I had gotten that far with the job, might as well do it with the right parts. Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures but basically to fit it to the bulkhead, I kept the flange that the old tunnel screws to that’s fitted to the bulkhead, and screwed the new tunnel to that. Some of the holes line up but I had to drill a couple of new holes for it to be secured nicely. Finally I used some thick closed cell foam to form a seal between the tunnel and flange as the contours of both don’t always line up in places. I also stuck some closed cell and silent coat on the top and underneath the tunnel for a bit of soundproofing whilst it was out. It’s also worth noting that the floor pans will either need cutting to accommodate the new tunnels or purchase a couple of puma floor pans like I did. Finally, the instructions say nothing about how to fit the remotes when the gearbox is in the vehicle, and seem like they assume the box is out. I had to remove the rear gearbox mounts and gently drop the rear of the box down to have enough room to fit the new remotes, obviously supporting it with a jack of some sort. Hope this helps  |
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11th Oct 2022 9:13am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227 
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Ah ignore me, thought you had a discovery box already....
 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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11th Oct 2022 12:50pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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Hi BuckBlu110 - so glad to find someone who has done this already!!
The million dollar question first... how do you find the gearshift now you have done the conversion? Is the main gearchanage and H/L range selection as you'd expect? Any niggles or isues? I get the impression that the end result will totally depend on the time and care taken to assemble the kit, especially with the filing and welding! I had no idea about the floor pans  What's the obstruction that needs cutting as I'd rather not replace them if I can avoid it?
And (dumb question) what do you mean by the "remotes" - hopefully not an issue as I need a recon gearbox anyway so expect this to be assembled outside the vehicle first. Thanks for your help! |
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11th Oct 2022 4:58pm |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 712
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The gear change is much more precise and solid, but slightly heavier, it feels more like a newer vehicle. The operation of the hi-lo is way better, I took the opportunity to lube up the diff lock mechanism on the box and I would go as far to say it’s easier to get into low/high/diff lock than standard.
I should mention that the instructions for lining up the new bracket that needs welding for the diff lock aren’t as clear cut as just following along as with standard LR build tolerances, there was a slightly different adjustment for my box compared to the instructions. It’s just a case of moving the diff lock lever on top of the box, back and forth until you get a good idea of where the bracket should be before welding up. Don’t be surprised if the welds have to be ground off and adjusted. The end result is totally dependent on adjustments, like the bias springs on the turret, and the aforementioned diff lock bracket. The floor pan only needs an edge cutting off, very straight forward, it might be a case of placing the new tunnels over the top of the floor panels and drawing an outline and then cutting the excess off, definitely the driver’s side pan but can’t remember if the passenger side is the same. The remotes are the alloy block assembly that the turret sits on on top of the box If your box is coming out, then the job will be much easier! |
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12th Oct 2022 8:45am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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That's really helpful - thanks for all the info.
Need to find myself LR057161 as it's the only part I dont have. |
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12th Oct 2022 2:21pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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So £170 later I now have the Puma tunnel - couldn't find a used one for sale so had to buy new
Sticking the parts together there are a couple of holes on top of the tunnel which I'm sure are relevant for the Puma gearbox, but what did you do with an R380 sitting underneath it? I'm guessing that the holes need sealing up to prevent heat/noise/water ingress, or have I missed something and the adapter kit uses them? Click image to enlarge |
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17th Oct 2022 5:45pm |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 712
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I just sealed the holes up, 3mm silent coat, and 12mm self adhesive closed cell foam on top and on the inside of the tunnel, I very much doubt there will be any water ingress.
On the plus side, there’s a couple of handy holes for passing wiring through if the need was ever there |
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17th Oct 2022 7:05pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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Just had my gearshift adapter fitted and it works well after a brief test drive. I had it fitted to a new (recon) gearbox so everything feels a bit stiffer at the moment and hopefully it'll free up a bit soon - but a massive improvement already.
Probably going to have to re-do the soundproofing on the tunnel though because it is WAY more noisy then before and I can only think its because the new tunnel and those holes have not been sealed properly. Can you remove and refit the tunnel easily enough, or do you have to remove the gearsticks and turret too? It's the difference between me being able to do it myself or taking it back to the garage! TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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13th Dec 2022 1:57pm |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 712
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I’ve not removed mine since fitting, not yet anyway, I’ll find out after Xmas as I too am having a new/recon box fitted!
I’m guessing by the way it’s fitted that the gater, carpet/tunnel mat and sticks should come off and then undo the screws on the plastic tunnel and pop it off. There should be enough room to slide something of your preference underneath. You may not even have to remove the sticks if you can wriggle the tunnel over them. If your wanting to put more soundproofing over the top of the metal tunnel however, the dash may have to come off so you can comfortably fit something over the tunnel and the dash not be in the way. I’m not sure what sort of access you have under your dash but in my case I would definitely have to do the above as heater pipes get in the way with the dash on. I actually found it much quieter after fitted my tunnel with the soundproofing I applied as above so maybe you Have got a hole somewhere? Can you feel a breeze around that area when you drive? |
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13th Dec 2022 7:38pm |
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