![]() | Home > Td5 > Discovery 'short stick' R380 into Defender TD5? |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'll take it for a proper test run at the weekend, but just on tickover it is way more noisy than with the original tunnel.
Both old and new tunnels have 3mm Silent Coat and the new one has the spare holes covered and it's also sealed to the floor and bulkhead. Perhaps I should have put some closed cell soundproofing inside the metal tunnel like you did - I missed that ![]() I'm sure there's nothing that can't be sorted by taking everything off and starting again!! ![]() 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
What about one of these before you go taking everything apart? I’ve not personally fitted one yet but I’ve seen other members that have.
https://g-tec4x4.co.uk/product/land-rover-...deadening/ It’s a piece of soundproofing off a discovery 2 that also fits a r380 defender. I think it can be slid on from underneath. I believe Mk1collector from this forum fitted one and is documented in his build thread. |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ok, scratch that, it can’t be slid on from underneath but it can be poked down behind the engine with the air box out of the way, here’s the thread:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615-195.html |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes it can... I have one fitted already!
![]() I recently had the dash out, the vents sealed, aftermarket AC fitted and then the whole bulkhead soundproofed with Silent Coat and then acoustic/thermal insulation. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge The massive increase in noise since fitting the gearstick adapter has effectively negated all my previous gains through soundproofing. Given the only difference is the tunnel and how it is sealed/fitted I am hoping that it is easily fixable, even if it is a few more £££ of labour to take everything off and start again. Looks like the diesel heater upgrade will have to wait a while longer! TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Did you have soundproofing under your original plastic tunnel? Pretty sure mine was just plastic.
What I think I have now is the Puma black metal tunnnel below with Silentcoat on the top, but nothing underneath it There is also nothing underneath the sides of the plastic cover. Did you put soundproofing under both of these parts? ![]() Click image to enlarge I also think I must have an air gap somewhere which is why is it so noisy. I found this old post where a chap had lots of noise after a clutch replacement and he found some issues with how things has been refitted. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic68720-15.html I'm booked in for 9th Jan for some more 'investment' to get it sorted! TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, the underneath of the original plastic tunnel had a rubber/foam type layer attached to it.
My puma metal tunnel actually has 12mm closed cell foam underneath, then on the top a layer of 2 or 3mm silent coat and then another layer of 12mm closed cell foam, so essentially three layers of soundproofing. My plastic tunnel does indeed have a layer of soundproofing underneath but it came with it already attached like this: ![]() Click image to enlarge It also acts as a seal between the metal tunnel at the front and seat box at the rear. What I also did was held a torch up from under the vehicle along the seams around both tunnels and any holes that let light seep through we’re plugged up with strips of more closed cell foam. One other thing I thought about, have you got the insulation pad fitted over/around the gear sticks like this?: ![]() |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's good info - thank you.
Yes I have the foam pad around the gear sticks. So without any insultation under the metal tunnel it's bound to be much noisier than before - that one is on me ![]() I might also have gaps or badly aligned seals that are letting noise through. Shining a light from underneath is a great idea. I hope he can remove and refit the tunnels without too much trouble! Did you use 12mm Dodo super liner, or something else? TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Think it was just generic 12mm self adhesive stuff advertised on eBay. Cheap as chips
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Procta Member Since: 03 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5235 ![]() ![]() |
ah some ones doing the puma gear stick conversion to match the dash conversion! It would be nice if someone had got the full nosh together, so it was all plug and play! Not needing to buy more stuff for the conversion. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 492 ![]() ![]() |
The original R380 tunnel has a thick foam sound deadener glued to the underside the loss of this is causing your problem. The TDCI tunnel design doesnt allow enough space for underside sound deadening.
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is as close a you'll get to an all-in-one kit. https://ministryofdefender.co.uk/land-rover-interior.html The dashboard is a replica e.g. not a genuine LR part, it will reuse your current instrument cluster, it has an adapted centre console to take the heater controls and you'll have a dog-legged gearstick. AC is an optional extra. This is how I started before swapping everything out for genuine LP parts and converting the gear leavers. I'll update my build thread in the next few days to bring it up to date with how I tackled the centre console and gear shifters... TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yep, I screwed up and got it all fitted without sorting this out first. BuckBlu seems to have got some sound insulation foam under that tunnel, so I'm going to give that a go. Also, the brand new LR form pad that sits around the gear levers has broken into 3 pieces after just 50 miles driving, so it can't have been seated proprly. So far it's 10/10 for the gear lever adapter and 0/10 for soundproofing! Current assessment on the gear stick adapter is that its a much shorter shift and feels a bit stiff at the moment, but I fitted it to a brand new (recon) gearbox afrom Ashcroft's and I read that they ease up after a couple of thousand miles. Once this happens I think it'll be a big improvement on the original shift One thing.... I keep trying, but for the life of me I can't get it into 6th gear... ![]() 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Unsure about when fitted to the original mt82, but there’s plenty of room when fitted over the r380, I’ve managed it just fine. Procta, to be honest, if I knew back when I started the dash conversion, what I know now, I probably wouldn’t have bothered. I probably could/should have spent the money and effort on the mechanical side of things. Hindsight’s 20/20 as they say ![]() It’s much easier these days with the likes of ministry of defenders kit, synchro gears stick adapter and Martin’s gauge adapter. I would be half tempted to say buying a puma and swapping a td5 into it would have been cheaper for me ![]() Don’t get me wrong, I’m very happy with how it turned out, and I probably didn’t need to be as ocd which may have saved a bit of money. I suppose it’s how you value your money really. |
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andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 368 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I totally agree, buying a Puma would have been a much cheaper option!
![]() To do this properly, even with the various kits and adapters will cost thousands of pounds, unless you can save on labour by doing it yourself. The repica kits are approx £1.500, AC is another £2K and the gearstick adapter is £600 - all ex VAT I think.Then there's the labour. Then there's the cost of all the things you didn't think need fixing.... I did see in a recent Landy magazine of a company in (South?) Africa that had made a modern dashboard for non-Puma Defenders with 3 different configurations. I can't find the article on their website but unless you really want to spend £££ on a factory Puma look, perhaps something like that is worth exploring?! TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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