 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Landreiziger loom install questions |
 
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629  |
Hi folks.
I'm fitting a Landreiziger loom next weekend (the ceramic one as it seems higher spec and cheaper than the plastic, weirdly. Just have a couple of queries if I may. 1) What is the best route across the engine bay in a Puma (the connection from headlamp to headlamp)? I had a play with a Boomslang loom and ended up with it sitting on top of the plastic strip above the radiator, running parallel but in front of the overflow pipe from the radiator. Just seeing if there's a better way of doing it as it was a bit of a fight getting it into a position that didn't clash with the big removable fan cover. 2) where do you earth to? In the Landreiziger video, (here: https://vimeo.com/239135972) it shows the loom earthed to the steel wing support bracket - but that's bolted onto the aluminium wing, which is in turn bolted to the chassis. I didn't think that the aluminium bodywork was a good earth route.  Click image to enlarge 3) in the video, its obviously a LHD TD5. They start the install through the right hand (UK drivers side, Dutch passenger side) headlamp aperture and have the relays mounted in a hole near the PAS reservoir which is on the opposite side in a RHD puma. What is the correct route on a RHD car? 4) is it obvious where on the alternator you connect the loom to - they show a random bolt, but not sure of where to connect to on a puma - daft question, but is the whole alternator casing 'live'? Thanks very much. |
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7th Aug 2022 12:12am |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Thanks buddy.
It arrives tomorrow so I'll have a look and will report back. Interestingly I'd also read in a number of places that the loom can't be connected to an alternator on a Puma and should be taken back to the battery. But it seems some clever forumers have figured it out: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post504117.html https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic51755-15.html I think I'm OK with the earth, though I might extend it to the engine block or the chassis. One more query though that keeps confusing me is that a lot of people comment on the dip/dim function saying you need to remove a relay to make this work... I have absolutely no idea what this means/what the dip/dim refers to and if it would apply to my 2010 90 SW. If I've understood it correctly then, as standard with the headlamp switch on one click then you get sidelights only. But somehow the Landzreiger loom makes this turn the headlamp on too? I'm really confused. I just want the lighting to continue to work as factory and don't fancy removing a relay and fitting a bridging piece. Can anyone elaborate for my simple brain? |
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10th Aug 2022 3:52pm |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2539  
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Dim/dip was a child of the late 1980's, early 1990's so not aware that any Pumas had this fitted from the factory unless someone was foolish enough to retrofit. Easy way to tell, with engine running switch on position lights - if the headlights light up on reduced power then you've got dim/dip fitted, if not you're in the clear. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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10th Aug 2022 4:06pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1885 
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Dim/Dip - I can't say if it lasted into the Puma vehicles, though I'm tempted to say not. My understanding is that it was some sort of poorly-thought out "safety" lighting regulation introduced in the UK in the 80's or so, so that headlights would come on dimly when sidelights were switched on. This was achieved by fitting a resistor under the driver's wing, and a relay on the bulkhead behind the dash.
To remove it, you needed to pull the relay and put a 'jumper' cable in across two of the terminals, and disconnect the relay under the wing. I know I did it on mine (1994 Tdi) many moons ago, hence why I've forgotten the details. I have a Landreiziger loom too, but again fitted many moons ago. I routed to second headlight across the top of the radiator cowl. I mounted the relays on the inside edge of the passenger wing. I've only ever had two small issues with mine - 1) the cover on the relays loosened, and because the fixing is on the cover, the relays themselves dropped out of the bottom; and 2) a poor crimp on the ring terminal to the alternator separated at a poor moment. No 2 was easily fixed, once I'd figured out what had happened, as I always carry some basic electrical tools/terminals and no 1.... the relays are still held together by gaffer tape and tie wraps..! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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10th Aug 2022 4:07pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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The dim/dip function is a consequence of an aborted 'safety' feature that was introduced in the 90's and later abandoned but Land Rover, in their infinite wisdom left it in place for many years afterwards. Essentially, when you put the side lights on with the engine running, it also allows a low voltage supply to the dipped beam bulbs so that they glow. It's a bloomin' nuisance and reduces the life of the bulbs. It's very easy to tell whether your vehicle has it or not - just start it up and turn the side lights on. If the headlights glow then you do.
Fortunately, it's also very easy to disable. The effect is created by a large resistor mounted in the RH wing. Just unplug it and the problem goes away. You can also choose to fit (or make) a dummy relay for the circuit that will achieve the same thing. A search on here for 'dim/dip relay' will give the details. It's nothing to do with an overlay loom such as you're fitting but does interfere with how that loom works, which is why it's best to disconnect it. If your headlights don't glow then don't worry about it  Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 16th Aug 2022 9:31am. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Aug 2022 4:13pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Well you learn something new every day! I'd never heard about that before - thank you for clearing it up.
Brilliant. As soon as it gets dark I'll go and check. And thank you very much for the installation tips. |
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10th Aug 2022 4:30pm |
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| Thug Member Since: 02 Aug 2022 Location: Johannesburg Posts: 20  
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I installed my Landreiziger loom over the weekend.
The -ve feed was attached to the Power Steering mount bracket. The +ve feed was extended and now runs into the battery compartment. The two relays were taped together and mounted onto the inner wing behind the passenger headlight. Everything is working smoothly. |
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15th Aug 2022 11:10am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4262 
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I have a 2.4 Puma with a landreiziger loom.
The positive comes straight off the back of the alternator, as does my driving light loom too. The negative goes to the A/C compressor mounting bolt. I modified mine after a few years and put the relays in a separate fuse/relay box under the dummy wing vent. The landreiziger way of just having exposed relays, is not wise and they eventually get water in them and start malfunctioning. I had night club disco headlights as a result 
The loom itself is routed over the top of the radiator, under the plastic cover, so is not visible for the most part. I seem to recall there was not much spare length in the loom. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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15th Aug 2022 11:30am |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Brilliant - thanks both, that's really helpful.
I'm late on fitting it but its sitting here on my desk. Bluest - I had the same concern about the relays and fitting it under the vent is a really nice location. Is it just a generic waterproof box or is there such a thing as a waterproof relay box? Finally - can I just confirm that on a RHD car that you have the loom primarily mounted on the Right hand (driver's) side? |
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15th Aug 2022 1:34pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4262
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Yes, on my RHD car everything is on the RHS except the leg running over the radiator to the nearside light. You also need to seal up and or secure the old headlight connection for the nearside as that becomes redundant.
The relay box I got is not sold as waterproof, just a generic ebay job (like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402303045657?ha...0MLBmNRg), but it does have a lid and I packed where the terminals are underneath with battery terminal grease. I've had the lid off a few times and there is no water in there. Also, mounting it up off the inner wing makes sure it can't sit in any water. I managed to mount using the holes already in the wing vent opening, so didn't need to drill anything. If you can find a fully waterproof one, that would be ideal. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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15th Aug 2022 1:46pm |
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| Thug Member Since: 02 Aug 2022 Location: Johannesburg Posts: 20
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My 90 is RHD but everything is mounted and runs on the Passenger side. As I didn't use the Alternator to run the power cable, it was far easier to run a +ve cable next to my spotlight wiring loom on the Passenger side and from there under the vehicle into the battery compartment. The H4 lead to the drivers headlight run across the radiator shroud and is cabled tied to the radiator overflow pipe (in a flexible conduit pipe) back to the header tank. I'll have to see whether that's the ideal routing but I'll monitor and see. |
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16th Aug 2022 9:06am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749
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Mine had the dim / dip as LRA mentioned above, and I also had to disable it.
Not a hard job, but if you didn’t know you’d be left scratching your head and it’s a bit of a pain to get into that area where it is located. On the loom I fitted, it was power stright from the alternator stud, and the same for my LED light bars. I replaced the relays for Durite ones with diodes as that helps suppress EMI from relay coils going back up into the loom (voltage fly back), ferrite clips maybe useful too in particular if you have LED headlights. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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16th Aug 2022 3:48pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Thanks all.
I've been trying to find the right sized waterproof enclosure for the relays today, eg: a hammond or similar. Can't find the right size yet (don't want anything too big but have sent some sketches to a number of suppliers so should hear back this week). I could draw and print a plastic box here, but I don't trust PLA+ to hold up to the underbonnet temps as even 50-degrees is enough for it to go soft. Update: think I've found an enclosure that will fit the relays perfectly: a Hammond 1590Z062. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125432098246?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338703918&toolid=20006%26customid%3Ds%253AGS%253Bgc%253AEAIaIQobChMIyrbWv5HM-QIVk77tCh2uRQEGEAQYAiABEgKac_D_BwE%253Bpt%253A1%253Bchoc%253A2&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3AEAIaIQobChMIyrbWv5HM-QIVk77tCh2uRQEGEAQYAiABEgKac_D_BwE%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1) Its cast aluminium, which is a bit overkill (I would have preferred PVC but don't want a giant 240v type one) but I (very, very roughly) modelled up the relays and grabbed the internal outline of the box (the incomplete/wobbly beige bit), showed where the wires could centralise to exit (the dodgy purple cone) and tried it all out and it looks like it'll fit like a glove. I'll need to drill the bottom for a cable gland where the hole is shown and I'll have a really solid box that I can bolt through its mounting holes to a bracket to install in the vehicle. I'll probably print a holder for the relays with captive studs for the relay tabs (completely overkill, but why not) ...just hope relays don't need ventilation/cooling. Click image to enlarge |
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16th Aug 2022 6:55pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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When I built my headlight loom, I used a generic electrical junction box from eBay for some of the components. It's waterproof, robust and is more than adequate under the bonnet. Here it is mounted on a home made bracket:
Click image to enlarge More details here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post897455.html#897455 and here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post898020.html#898020 Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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16th Aug 2022 9:12pm |
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