 | Home > Td5 > leaking rear axle seal |
 
|
|
|
| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729   
|
Saw a puddle starting to form on my right rear wheel... obviously this is NOT good. It's been a tough couple months for my truck (and for me).
Being that I moved to a rural area, it's a 4 hour trip with a 2 hour ferry to get to the local LR repair shop. My 110 was there for WAY too long to diagnose a running issue, which they couldn't figure out. Turns out I had them check the CPS and it was the culprit. * weeks later I get the truck back, first day, starter solenoid pacs it in... 2 weeks to get the parts... so now I'm up and running again... 2 days later... now I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to get over this hurdle. So, if I am going to try to tackle this, I'm assuming it's the seal, and if I'm in there I should probably replace the bearing. Does anyone have a list of parts required? I'll need to order everything in, or should I just trailer it back to town at about a £250 expense to get it done? Looking for opinions and options.  Click image to enlarge it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
||
22nd Jul 2022 6:19pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17321  
|
It certainly looks as though it is leaking from the drive flange to hub joint. There is usually a paper gasket on this joint, and it is quite a popular leak. There is actually no reason why you shouldn't use a good jointing compound (such as blue Hylomar) and dispense with the gasket, but be very careful not to get sealant down the bolt holes, since this can cause all manner of problems (they are blind holes and it is fairly common for the bolts to shear).
There is absolutely no reason to suppose that you need new wheel bearings if it is the drive flange leaking, and there is no point replacing them if they are sound. All the parts info you could ever need is available here: https://new.lrcat.com/ |
||
|
22nd Jul 2022 7:03pm |
|
| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3403  
|
It does look like leaking from the drive member. If it was a hub seal leak, I would expect the oil stain to be further inside the rim.
Already got the advise above. What was missed out is that it is a simple job, and you do not even need to remove the wheel. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
|
22nd Jul 2022 7:15pm |
|
| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 921 
|
Those flanges look beefy, but the issues will be same as OEM. You can seal it up with a good quality sealant like Permatex “right stuff” or most any good sealant (not silicone). Remove the flange and apply to the surface (after you clean it). Canadian Tire has what you’ll need.
Good luck 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
||
|
23rd Jul 2022 2:00am |
|
| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5653 
|
Check your axle breather is not blocked.
|
||
|
23rd Jul 2022 12:47pm |
|
| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
|
Excellent feedback, exactly as I had hoped. They are KAM flanges I had installed about 5 years ago. (I hear their current product offerings are not the same quality).
I'll clean up the oil, check the breather and see if there's any more leakage. Next step will be the flange gasket replacement. it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
||
|
23rd Jul 2022 5:53pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
