 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Missfire/stutter on startup |
 
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69   
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8th Jun 2022 12:55pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665  
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I'll follow this, as I have a very similar situation, but only when engine is warm (cold starts are 100% perfect).
I've changed loads of parts already (see https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82418.html ) and still struggling. Cam shaft position sensor has arrived but not yet fitted. After that (if it does not fix it) I may try the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. If it's still not good, I will have to go to a specialist, because I have run out of options and replacing parts has got expensive!!! Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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10th Jun 2022 8:10am |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 818  
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To my amateur eyes that looks like electrical issue to me. Engine sounds fine and wants to start, it’s almost as if something electric is almost cutting in but then allowing it to start - possibly a voltage drop or something? 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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10th Jun 2022 9:01am |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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Must be electrical - it’s weird how your temp needle sometimes jumps way up Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
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10th Jun 2022 9:13am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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It looks like an intermittent connection, possibility an earth.
Things to check. In order. Battery negative terminal, loosen it, tap it down on the post and then re tighten. Check negative to chassis connections. Check positive battery terminal as well. Check relays are well seated. Check fuses are not loose Check IPAC (instrument cluster) connector is fitted tight. Check connections to ignition switch. |
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10th Jun 2022 12:29pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Hi folks, checked battery connections and earths, all appear good. Removed and reseated all relays under driver's seat, didn't really see any issues here. I have a plethora of faults logged for instrument pack, but they have been there since I got it. I will remove the clocks tomorrow and have a check. What is the IPAC bypass I keep reading about in here and does anyone know how it is done? Also, live data on Nanocom shows battery voltage dropping to 11.2 during heating cycle and slow to recover. Took the battery our anf put it in charge for thee hours but bo different. I wonder if the battery is an issue, it's the original one.
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14th Jun 2022 3:56pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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^^^^^^^^^
That was going to be my next suggestion after you did above checks. See post from Martin , half way down page 7 https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic47486...p;start=90 one way to check if it’s a starter battery issue is to put jump leads on from another battery so both batteries are connected , then start and see if the problem is still exhibiting. Original batteries do last well, especially if the vehicle is used on a regular basis / trickle charged with something like a ctek. However I just changed mine after nearly 9 years as it was not holding charge as well as it should. Having said that it did not exhibit the issues you are having, just chirped the BBUS alarm if not started for a few days in the cold winter months |
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14th Jun 2022 5:09pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Took out the instrument binnacle this morning, refreshingly easy to do for once. Two wires cut at the plug and joined in the loom with a blue connector that leaves the insulation in place and kind of nips through to make contact. I guess I have already been 'shunted'!.
 Click image to enlarge I stripped back and joined with solder to be sure and wrapped in insulation. Thought I was on to something but the situation is still the same unfortunately |
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15th Jun 2022 11:21am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jun 2022 11:32am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jun 2022 11:34am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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You should try a manual starter switch/link wire.
Remove the starter relay under the driver's seat (has Brown/Grey and Brown/Red wires). With a 2.5mm2 wire (or larger), create a bridge wire, or switch with flying leads, with the intention to bridge the Brown/Grey and Brown/Red terminals of the relay base. Turn the ignition switch on (so you get engine warning lights up, glow, etc). Then push in the link wire or flick the switch to run the starter. Remove/switch off when it has started. Do you get the stutter? 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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15th Jun 2022 11:57am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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You are suspecting my ignition switch Martin?
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15th Jun 2022 12:04pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605
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Yes. In the latter part of your video the coolant gauge shoots up and drops again. The shooting up suggests the ECU has stopped sending CAN data, and the pack defaults to coolant gauge at the top.
So I think it may be possible the ECU is turning off due to duff ignition switch contacts when you turn it to the start position. Doing the above removes the need to turn the key to run the starter. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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15th Jun 2022 12:07pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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I see changing can be a bit of a battle. I do have ti remove the key sometimes before I can turn it again from position zero. Changing the switch might be the next job. How do you retain your original key, does the lock section separate easily from the switch?
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15th Jun 2022 12:24pm |
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