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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5707  
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Is it a metal pipe, or the flex hose that has failed?
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22nd May 2022 11:46am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 319  
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If it’s a metal pipe and the rest appears to be in serviceable condition would you consider buying a pipe flaring tool (£25 in Halfords) and attempt to join the two ends or graft a new piece on the the old piece in a position where you can get to it?
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22nd May 2022 1:33pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917  
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It’s the copper pipe (might not be copper actually), I changed all the flex pipes for stainless a little while back.
It’s such an awkward position, as it runs from the servo along the top of the chassis then drops down to run to the rear, it’s on the 90 bend as it drops down where the break is. I’m a gas engineer so the pipe work bit would be easy enough, I hadn’t thought about repairing, maybe worth a try? But I suppose because of where the leak is I would have to come back towards the servo a fair way so just as well replace it with out the extra joints? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) Last edited by bear100 on 22nd May 2022 2:19pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd May 2022 2:00pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 319
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If it’s really awkward to get to and you think routing the OEM replacement pipe along the top of the chassis would be difficult (I’ve been to look at mine, I’m with you on this) you might then consider making your own pipe from MC to calliper and route it the way you want. As long as you support it correctly and protect it from impact I can’t see why this isn’t a viable plan C
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22nd May 2022 2:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386 
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As noted above there is no reason why you can't cut it and just replace the damaged part. Some while ago I had to replace the two rear pipes on my Disco2, which are notoriously difficult since they have a complex route and were fitted when the chassis was on the line without a body. I made up my own two-part lines in order for them to be much, much easier to fit.
Just make sure that you use appropriate fittings and proper flares. In my opinion it is worth buying a good flaring tools, my current favorite is the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster2 since it can be taken to the vehicle to flare a pipe in situ, something that wasn't possible with the earlier turret-type tools. |
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22nd May 2022 5:23pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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ive looked into cutting it but its in such an awkward place and its made of steel? (corroded on the corner)
i looked at the good flaring tools as mentioned above and they are circa £120 ive had a price for a replacement pipe which is of course genuine only!  for £156 delivered
in the end after all head games deciding what course to take i placed an order for the Genuine part, it looks like a pig of a job with the route to take, fluid, and the sticky black Dinitrol all on the drive.
I will let you know how i get on  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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24th May 2022 6:22am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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Well I can honestly say that was a horrid job to do
Apart from the sticky Dinitrol covering every part you touch, copious amounts of mud and crap dropping all over face, the route taken was very easy when on the assembly line but now the body is on it was impossible to replicate. The new line in fairness was quite flexible and strong which helped when having to deform it slightly to manipulate in place. It was easier to remove the expansion tank to get at the top connection than trying to work around it. But it’s done and road test tomorrow  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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24th May 2022 6:18pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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Well done. Would you attempt to make your own in future?
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24th May 2022 8:58pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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Thanks, yes i would but would change both sides at the same time the original looks like a 4mm steel tube and would use 6mm copper in its place..... i think
 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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25th May 2022 6:20am |
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