Home > In Car Electronics > ELI5 - Central Locking & Heated Seats |
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steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 567 |
Looking at the wiring diagram for the window lifters 2.0mm2 cable is what's used.
You can buy it by the meter in many colours. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/25-amp-sing...cable.html On the heated seats the circuit is simple battery, switch, heater. Check that there is a voltage at the heater element. If so, the element is dead, this is the most common failure point. Replacement heater elements are available from the usual suspects. |
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23rd Feb 2022 9:57am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 |
Re. the CDL, be aware that on the whole whatever you use to repair the broken wires will eventually break again since the overall design is deficient. You can get longer life by using a high-flex test lead cable (for example https://www.technobotsonline.com/flexible-...mm-m.html, noting that this is a random link to the type of cable and not an endorsement of this particular cable), but eventually the same thing will happen.
The root cause is the way that the rubber trunk for the second row doors has both the door and B-post locating points at the same height, so that every time the door is opened the wires contained within flex through nearly 180 degrees. If you compare this with the first row doors where the trunk locating points are at different heights, and you will see that these (which were evidently not designed by a halfwit) are vertically separated wit the result that the wires inside flex far less. I have modified my second row wiring as shown in the photo below, and since doing so have not had any further trouble (not yet, anyway), prior to this I was rewiring these wretched things about once a year. Click image to enlarge You might also want to take a look at this thread, central locking problems have been discussed fairly thoroughly over the years. |
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23rd Feb 2022 10:00am |
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J1990 Member Since: 24 Aug 2021 Location: South West Posts: 39 |
Thanks Steve, as daft as it may be I've been through plenty of the threads on the central locking and it was purely the wire gauge I was baffled by and for whatever reason I couldn't bring myself to just cut a a stretch off and head to the hardware store to eyeball it. I'll head in at lunch and try grab some 2.0mm2. With regards to the heated seats, I'll give that a go and see how I get on. I guess I can at least start by testing on the passenger side since I know the seat works and ensure I'm getting a positive result there |
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23rd Feb 2022 10:05am |
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J1990 Member Since: 24 Aug 2021 Location: South West Posts: 39 |
Thanks Blackwolf, that's one of the threads I'd seen when initially searching and it just seems so typically LR for the design to be different between the front and rear routing for the cabling, with one of them working fine and the other being notorious for repeated breaking. Anyway, your modification seems like the most pain-free solution here so that I'm not removing the membranes continuously and driving myself mad. |
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23rd Feb 2022 10:08am |
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