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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2286

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Hmmmm I think this job might be beyond my ability/tooling! > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #913069 19th Jul 2021 1:35pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3383

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Yeah, I also like to see you tube videos of others fixing stuff, where I do not need to smell gear oil, wipe messes, or worse scrape my knuckles Rolling with laughter

But this one has been particularly satisfying. Actually it is not as difficult as you might think, and there are very few components. My case was a bit challenging because I could not find replacement sector shaft bearings. They seem to be really specific with imperial ID and metric OD. Were they standard needle roller bearings, then life would have been far easier. Biggest job was to get the tolerances for the bronze bushing right, which I could not, so erred on the tight side - hoping that soon they wear the high spots and become right.

2nd most difficult job of the steering box was pulling the drop arm off. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #913081 19th Jul 2021 2:30pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 615

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
If you are just replacing the sector shaft and seals / bearings, or the input/ worm shaft seal, you can get away with not disturbing the rack / plunger assembly as long as you make a note of alignment
Post #913136 19th Jul 2021 8:24pm
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Oldowner wrote:


Next most common failure is the worm drive with pitting to the ball races surfaces - These two are both scrap - bottom one has obvious pitting, top one is just starting - black dot on race. These are available new from Magal who were adwest for £75 still.


Click image to enlarge


Is that for the worm?
I have a dismantled box, I wanted to overhaul it but the worm was a £1000 if I convert our currency yo Pounds.
So I just bought a new one.

But at that price it might be worth it.
Post #913248 20th Jul 2021 5:38pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3383

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
RTC4405 is the worm for right hand boxes which should be the one you need for SA. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #913271 20th Jul 2021 7:06pm
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Hi.

Does the sector shaft take 2 bearings in the bottom part?

I stripped the box but only found one.
Post #942724 16th Feb 2022 5:26pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3383

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Yes, 2 bearings at the bottom. See below that oldowner kindly shared.


Oldowner wrote:
The Adwest 4 bolt box uses 1x B2012 bearing in the top cover, and 1x B2016 and 1x B2020 on the lower section. Koyo are OEM for these (it was Torrington, but I think Koyo purchased Torrington)

I have rebuilt a number of 4 bolt boxes. The worms are often pitted either on the centre of the worm or on the bearing seats on each end - these are often overlooked as people only concentrate on the sector shaft seal wear.
 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #942729 16th Feb 2022 5:39pm
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Thanks, I did read this post but just wanted to confirm.

This might explain why my sector shaft has damage.

The grind and hard chrome is luckily much cheaper than a new one.
Post #942733 16th Feb 2022 5:50pm
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Another question about the bearings.

The top bearing of the of the bottom 2, is it installed flush or recessed a bit?
Post #942777 17th Feb 2022 6:40am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3383

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Ignore that mine is a bronze bush and not a needle bearing, but that top bearing goes flush with the top of the casing. It might not be perfectly flush, as the top facing of the casing is not machined there. The sector shaft will not rub, as it should be blocked from going further down by the follower wheel resting on the worm.

Care when putting the top cover back in, as it is easy to make a flat spot on either the worm or the following wheel if the top cover is bolted down is the backlash adjustment screw is not fully out (lifting the sector away from the worm).

Dinnu wrote:



Click image to enlarge


 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #942779 17th Feb 2022 7:38am
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Thank you very much.
Post #942781 17th Feb 2022 8:01am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3383

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Would be interesting to find why one of the lower bearing was removed.
Could it be that the sector shaft is bent, and one of the lower bearings was removed to get the top cover to fit? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #942789 17th Feb 2022 9:02am
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 356

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
Not sure, I'm second owner.
Owned her for 10 of the 16 years.
Post #942790 17th Feb 2022 9:13am
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Buttons



Member Since: 24 Nov 2018
Location: Galway
Posts: 34

Ireland 
Brilliant info.
I've just finished, (well almost as the worm/valve assembly had been ground down so the seals in the kit do not fit, not a big deal but I'll have to order correct sized seals), the rebuild of my steering box including the teflon seals. The large diameter one on the piston was easy to fit, heat up and slip over, but the smaller ones on the worm/valve were very scary as I'd never done this type of thing before. After crafting an 'expander tool' from a plastic wine glass, fruit packaging and tape and attempting to fit - it was dumped, don't bother. I heated the seals in a bowl of water in the microwave to boiling and then fitted using a cocktail stick, (a decent diameter fishing line in a loop would probably do too). It was quite easy but a lot scary. I shrunk them with a 'collar' from fruit packaging to even out the compression and a standard worm clip. Turned out perfect. Its a bit worrying when the seals are loose on the shaft after fitting but they do shrink back when compressed. I tapped out the original needle bearings but reused them as they are in good condition. All seals/bearings on my box are imperial.
Post #946315 20th Mar 2022 2:50am
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