 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Changing air inlet connection elbow - How?! |
 
|
|
|
| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 334   
|
It’s hard to see it let alone change it.
I took mine to a garage & they needed to drain the coolant & disconnect a bunch of stuff to dig down to it. A couple of hours labour if I recall correctly. |
||
29th Dec 2021 9:51pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671 
|
Thanks. I’m hoping removing the inner wheel arch cover will reveal it, if not I suppose it’s the coolant hoses to come out.
|
||
|
29th Dec 2021 10:15pm |
|
| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 334
|
That didn’t even occur to me, sounds a plan. Good luck with it.
|
||
|
29th Dec 2021 11:15pm |
|
| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 208  
|
Hi Co1.
There are a number of ways of accessing it to replace but this is the way I did it a few years ago. No need to remove the inner guard, all can be accessed from topside within engine bay and can be done without removing coolant hoses although you will need to move / hold some out of the way at various times. It is still very, very tight, you will cut your hands and you will probably swear. Small hands are a winner, employ children if available. 1. Remove plastic fan shroud (6 x quarter turn screws). This will make access to one of the jubilee clips in item 2 below easier.  Click image to enlarge 2. Remove flexible air intake hose between intercooler and metal air intake hose. (2 x jubilee clips) Click image to enlarge 3. Remove metal air intake hose. First remove 1 x electrical connector (air charge sensor) on top of the hose, 2 x clips holding electrical cables and 1 x clip holding a flexible coolant hose. There is a nut / stud holding it in place onto the water pump and a bolt lower down (on the same side), slide your hand down the hose until you feel the bracket if you can’t see the lower bolt at first. Remove the jubilee clip holding it on to the flexible elbow that you're wanting to replace (may be easier to use a small socket rather than a screwdriver). Now rotate and pull the metal intake hose from the elbow to remove from engine bay. If the two won’t come apart you can cut the flexible elbow as you're going to renew it anyway. Click image to enlarge 4. Remove the flexible elbow from throttle body (1 x jubilee clip). Again, a small socket may be easier than a screwdriver. Twist and pull down (cut it off if it won’t budge, as is likely). There is very little space as it is directly above one of the engine mounts. Click image to enlarge 5. Installation is reverse of removal sequence. Make sure there is a gap between the base of the new elbow and the engine mount when fitted to the throttle body. Good idea to use lubricant (water based and evaporative) on the elbow to throttle body and elbow to metal hose joints for install, makes life a lot easier (personal lube from a chemist is great for this). Also don't tighten the jubilee clip between the elbow and the throttle body until you've connected the metal intake hose to the elbow. This will make installation of the metal hose to the elbow easier as it allows the elbow to rotate on the throttle body as you connect it to the metal hose. It is one of those nasty jobs and again a higher quality original part would have saved a lot of grief for a lot of people. I replaced mine with a BAS silicone (5ply) which was incredibly stiff to put back on but should last. Allisport silicone ones are 4 ply and so may be more flexible. Original rubber ones are probably the most flexible but will fail again in time. Good luck. Andy Last edited by piechipsandpeas on 4th Jan 2022 8:23am. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
30th Dec 2021 6:39am |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
Andy, you are a hero!! This detail is very much appreciated and you’re a credit to the forum. I shall drink a beer in your honour this evening!!
|
||
|
30th Dec 2021 6:52am |
|
| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 208
|
That's ok mate, just hope it all works for you. Its one of those jobs that second time round will take a fraction of the time if it ever needs doing again.
Note: When you reconnect the coolant hose clip to the metal air intake hose make sure it is fitted correctly and holds in place or add a cable tie (the clip can be easily damaged when removing). If it comes loose the coolant hose can then vibrate and foul on one of the hose clips (depending on the orientation of the hose clip) at the base of the power steering reservoir resulting in the coolant hose splitting. This will likely happen in the most inconvenient location. When removing the flexible air intake hose between the intercooler and the metal air intake hose make a note of its orientation. Also when reinstalling make sure there is a gap between this hose and the vertical coolant hose from the thermostat (and aircon pipe if aircon is fitted) as there isn't much room between the two. |
||
|
30th Dec 2021 7:30am |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1993
|
This should be a sticky Andy. A great write up with pics.
|
||
|
30th Dec 2021 10:13pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
I managed to get hold a genuine for collection today. Couldn’t get silicon from anywhere until middle of next week and I need to use the car sooner. Is there any sense in wrapping the elbow with strong narrow duct tape to prevent it expanding so much, which I’m pretty sure is the original cause of failure?
|
||
|
31st Dec 2021 7:47am |
|
| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 208
|
Not sure about that. It may make the elbow much less flexible which will make installing it harder. Also by the time the rubber is going to give up the ghost in a few years the tape may not be in great condition either. How long did the existing one last for?
|
||
|
31st Dec 2021 2:38pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
Getting out was right, but only 2 cuts. To me, not the hose. Not quite sure how I’ll get it back in!
Click image to enlarge |
||
|
31st Dec 2021 3:20pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
Well, 90 mins to get it back assembles and hands that resemble chopped liver. I wish I could tell you there is a simple way to do this, but there isn’t! Thanks for the instructions Andy, followed them to the letter.
|
||
|
31st Dec 2021 5:01pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1993
|
I’m halfway through this job, rain stopped play.
So the two bolts that hold the metal air intake hose in place are the long ones that go through the water pump and mount it onto the engine. Given the water pump is under sideways tension from the serpentine belt , how did you remove both bolts to release the bracket without the water pump being pulled off by the belt tension. Edit- looking at the diagrams and pics of the pump I can see there are 3 bolts holding the pump on, so I expect that 3rd bolt will hold it in place sufficiently well to allow the other two bolts to be removed. I’m wondering if removing the serpentine belt and unbolting the water pump and moving to the side would provider better access. |
||
|
13th Feb 2022 2:29pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
I didn’t touch the belt, just whipped the bolts out and the pump stayed in place. The third bolt must be secure enough. How much swearing have you done?!
|
||
|
13th Feb 2022 6:15pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1993
|
A fair bit of swearing..but it’s part of a bigger job, my intercooler has split so I’ve purchased a BAS intercooler plus BAS silicon intercooler hoses. Then on inspection I noticed a very small leak on my radiator, so I purchased a gen LR radiator taken off a delivery mileage 2015 Puma when it had an v8 engine swap from new.
The fun stated yesterday, a cold Saturday morning on my drive. 1Soft A Bar off 2.Aircon grill off 3.Top fan shroud Off 4.Slam panel off, insufficient exposed threads to get right hand studs out using two nut method so needed mole grips to get them out. Good that BAS includes replacement bolts ( better for next time ) 
5.Viscous fan off, using BAS tool to hold fan pulley, glad I bought that tool as it was very tight, used long breaker bar to hold tool plus draper single ended open 36mm spanner and slipped 2 ft of jack handle over it to provide leverage. It’s normal counter clockwise to undo, but I did need to double check as I had to apply a fair bit of torque to loosen it. 6.Drained coolant. No fuel cooler on mine so no coolant pipes to drain from on near side chassis rail so had to drain by removing pipe from oil cooler thermostat. Due to location it means you can’t get all into a single bucket so lots of strategically placed containers to catch as much as possible. When drained I hosed all the chassis, in the chassis and all under the truck to wash away residue. 7. Intercooler hoses detached from intercooler 8. Top nearside radiator hose detached, plus small pipe from coolant tank. 9. Bottom fan shroud removed. 10. Left and right brackets removed, prop bonnet with long wood pole going to ground in engine bay where bottom shroud used to be. 11. Lift radiator off bottom mounts and move slightly more into engine bay. This gives room to remove intercooler. 12. Lift intercooler out, nearside first. 13. Detach lower offside radiator pipe then small one on the bottom front of radiator. 14 catch coolant in bucket. 15 remove radiator and wash down area to remove coolant residue. 16 remove nearside intercooler pipe from metal intercooler pipe. 17 remove turbo to intercooler pipe. Remove nut on bracket that holds pipe away from engine and steering parts then bend back bracket. 18 remove intercooler pipe from turbo and manipulate pipe out. 19. Fit new silicon hose. And reattach bracket, make sure pipe is not rubbed by steering parts. BAS states 15 -20mm needs cutting off at turbo end on RHD models, after several tries , cutting a bit more off each time, I found 20mm was correct to avoid steering column rubbing, leaving a 10mm gap, but I do have the bracket to keep it clear. 20. Remove top bolt on metal intercooler pipe bracket. 21. Loosen pipe clip on hose to inlet manifold. And that’s where I’m at now, so a fair bit of colourful language already, and more to come I expect. Last edited by Ianh on 17th Feb 2022 9:18pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
13th Feb 2022 9:01pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
