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Andy RV

Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 64

Help! Loss of power, boost leak? 2.2 TDCI

Hello all,

My 2014 90 lost power yesterday, I managed to limp it home but it’s pretty gutless.

The yellow engine light is on, it makes a whining sound from the passenger side when it comes onto boost, as if it’s leaking somewhere. No smoke, it fires up and idles fine. I’ve taken the hoses off today between the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to throttle body hoping to find a split but the hoses all appear ok. I’ve had a quick look at the intercooler and can’t see any bulges or bursts.

Would it be worth checking the throttle body to inlet manifold gasket? I’ve read a few threads where the gasket has failed between the exhaust manifold and turbo, while I’ve not taken the heat shield off I can’t detect and leak there and the turbo appears to be creating pressure so it’s perhaps not the issue?

Here’s a poor video of the whining sound;

Any ideas?

23rd Jan 2022 4:44pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

check charge air pipe work engine bay for splits or disconnected hoses good place to start and check DTC from ECU

NO throttle body but this a ford engine and junk to boot

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 23rd Jan 2022 7:39pm. Edited 1 time in total

23rd Jan 2022 5:02pm

Roy5695

Member Since: 15 Feb 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 1123

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Indus Silver

Do d you check all 3 hoses?

There’s a little 90degree elbow one. 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html

Instagram - @r22oyp

Roy

23rd Jan 2022 5:51pm

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6605

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

If it's passenger's side it's highly likely to be the elbow under the throttle body (yes, 2.2s have one!) on the inlet manifold side.

Get your hand underneath it and prod the hose to see if you can open up a split. Impossible to visually inspect it as it's buried behind coolant pipework.

You won't get any smoke due to the DPF.

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

23rd Jan 2022 5:55pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

Roy5695 wrote:
Do d you check all 3 hoses?

There’s a little 90degree elbow one.

See here for mine recently. Split couldn’t be seen, it was in the underside of the hose. Sounded just like yours though:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic81670.html

23rd Jan 2022 6:08pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

Here:

Click image to enlarge

When changing it, I decided not to remove the coolant hoses to save time, but it probably cost me more time by not doing so. Give me a shout if you want any hints and tips.

23rd Jan 2022 6:10pm

Andy RV

Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 64

Cheers guys, I’ve removed the three hoses, including the 90’ elbow which joins the throttle body and they all look fine. I’ve cleaned them up and done my best turbo impression by blowing through them in the kitchen sink while blocking the other end with my hand and I can’t detect any leaks or splits…! I’ll see if I can borrow or buy a code reader tomorrow😟.

23rd Jan 2022 6:41pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

“ done my best turbo impression by blowing through them in the kitchen sink”

23rd Jan 2022 6:51pm

JPE

Member Since: 19 Nov 2018
Location: South West England
Posts: 334

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red

I've had 3 separate boost leaks with limp mode in 3 years. Once the hose into the inlet manifold, once the hose out of the intercooler, but the other time it was a split in the intercooler itself. Might be worth checking if all 3 hoses are ok.

23rd Jan 2022 7:35pm

piechipsandpeas

Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 208

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver

Hey Andy RV

It is very hard to ascertain where the hole is as it only makes the sound when the engine is running under load (ie when the turbo is spinning).

You can find the leak with the engine off by using a piece of plastic pipe, blanked at one end with a cap (cap needs to be glued on). A scrap valve (from a bike inner tube) is first fitted through a hole in the blanking cap prior to gluing the cap onto the pipe. Leave a bit of a flange on the base of the valve (you wont need any glue to hold the valve as the air pressure will seal it as long as its a tight fit).

Click image to enlarge

Disconnect the boost hose from the turbo outlet and connect the plastic pipe to the boost hose. Then pump in air using a bike pump. When the system starts to pressurise you should clearly hear where the air is escaping (you shouldn’t need too much pressure).

Click image to enlarge

Andy

Last edited by piechipsandpeas on 25th Jan 2022 1:25am. Edited 2 times in total

24th Jan 2022 11:40am

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Love the test rig Andy

24th Jan 2022 11:43am

Andy RV

Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 64

Brilliant! I’ll knock one of those up!

I put the hoses back on last night, I’ll take it for a run later today and see if I can narrow down the symptoms.

24th Jan 2022 1:31pm

Andy RV

Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 64

Progress thanks to Andy’s pipe & pump pressure thingymajiggy! The intercooler has split;

Click image to enlarge

24th Jan 2022 6:48pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

Nice bit of problem solving there! Good excuse to buy yourself a fully welded uprated intercooler as well!

24th Jan 2022 7:33pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

What a great tool, simple , yet brilliant and cheap

What size pipe did you use ?

24th Jan 2022 8:28pm

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