DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Rear propshaft to T/C box bolts

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Td5 > Rear propshaft to T/C box bolts

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Rear propshaft to T/C box bolts

Defender Xtreme 2004 TD5.

My problem involves one of the 4 bolts between the T/C flange via the handbrake drum attaching the front uni joint of the rear propshaft. The nut on one of these "studs" from the handbrake cannot be tightened or undone as the thread is stripped. I cannot tell whether the nut or the bolt is at fault until it is removed.

I can't easily remove the stripped nut so cannot remove the propshaft to replace the nut or bolt. Worst case scenario is that it will probably have to be ground off, or the bolt cut with a hacksaw to allow the propshaft to be removed.

I will be replacing the 4 bolts & nuts, but my question is: after removing the handbrake drum, is there enough clearance to allow the new bolts to be inserted through the flange, or does the flange have to be removed?

I have had this area dismantled to replace the handbrake cable about 3 years ago, but cannot remember about the flange. I did not replace the bolts then, but did use new nyloc nuts.

Any advice would be appreciated; also about how to remove the dameged nut!

Cheers,

Lionel

4th Jan 2022 6:08am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The flange has to come off, but this is relatively little extra hassle by the time you get there. It is possible that the wrong size bolts have been used in the past and the head of the bolt is not restrained as it should be, resulting in the bolt spinning.

To remove it, due to the difficulty with access, my likely approach would be to drill through at least one and probably two opposite flats of the nut then split the nut with a chisel. Grinding or sawing is likely to be difficult due to the propshaft.

Then correctly assembled the bolts (which as I recall are 3/8" UNF) have their heads constrained from rotation by a machined edge on the back of the flange, and are loosely held in place by a large circlip.

4th Jan 2022 8:29am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Thanks blackwolf for your advice.

It's not good news though, to have to remove the flange. I will need to get some sort of retaining/holding tool to remove the flange nut, which can be very tight, & of course, it would be silly not to replace the seal, & possible the flange as well.

I'm hoping I can get the nut off without grinding or drilling though - there is enough slack to get a large screw driver between the nut & the flange to apply leverage & maybe (?) wind it off.

I have a feeling that it is the nut that has failed, rather than the bolt. It would still be a miracle if the existing bolt (original) is not chewed during the process, even if all goes well.

Anyway, I'll give it a go, & see where we end up. At least a flange kit is not too expensive.

Cheers,

Lionel

4th Jan 2022 11:32am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

If you have enough slack, maybe you can put a hacksaw between the prop flange and the brake drum?
If the nut is spinning, most likely with a new lock nut, the bolt would spin again.

If you hack the old bolt out, probably you can remove the old sawn bolt without taking the flange off, but need to shift the circlip that retains the bolts. If you really do not fancy taking the flange out, you could use a ‘stud, and put a nut behind the flange, perhaps nut glued so that it will not spin. Not really a proper fix, as the bolts should have a solid stem, but could work until you take the flange out next time. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

4th Jan 2022 11:49am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

You might be lucky with this approach, but it is made much harder by the fact that you can't get the handbrake drum off with the propshaft in place.

Holding the flange whilst undoing (or doing up) the flange nut isn't difficult, if you don't have a holding tool (something like this) simply use a bar between two of the propshaft bolts. As long as you are careful you won't damage them.

4th Jan 2022 11:59am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Dinnu wrote:
If you have enough slack, maybe you can put a hacksaw between the prop flange and the brake drum?
If the nut is spinning, most likely with a new lock nut, the bolt would spin again.

If you hack the old bolt out, probably you can remove the old sawn bolt without taking the flange off, but need to shift the circlip that retains the bolts. If you really do not fancy taking the flange out, you could use a ‘stud, and put a nut behind the flange, perhaps nut glued so that it will not spin. Not really a proper fix, as the bolts should have a solid stem, but could work until you take the flange out next time.

Thanks for your input.

However I should clarify my problem, as the bolt is not spinning, it is just that the propshaft nut can be turned with a spanner, but not progress along the bolt thread in order to remove it. I have yet to try exerting pressure behind the nut & turning it with the ring spanner, & I am hopeful that it may be able to be wound off without having to drill or grind the nut.

I'll try that today, hopefully, & then update.

Cheers,

Lionel

4th Jan 2022 9:54pm

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

blackwolf wrote:
You might be lucky with this approach, but it is made much harder by the fact that you can't get the handbrake drum off with the propshaft in place.

Holding the flange whilst undoing (or doing up) the flange nut isn't difficult, if you don't have a holding tool (something like this) simply use a bar between two of the propshaft bolts. As long as you are careful you won't damage them.

Thanks blackwolf.

I'll do a bit more on it today & see how I get on.

Cheers,

Lionel

4th Jan 2022 9:58pm

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

I just thought I should complete this thread.

The job was a doddle really. I was able to use a hacksaw to cut through the damaged bolt, which i could not undo in the normal fashion. No problem then to remove the rear propshaft.

The rest of it was quite routine. I found that I coulld easily undo the flange (M20) bolt by pulling the handbrake fully on - this was more than enough to allow my Milwaukee impact driver to undo the nut, which was VERY tight. Then I could remove the handbrake drum after winding off the 17mm adjuster for the handbrake.

I had a puller handy to remove the flange, but this was not necessary as it came off easily by hand ( I nearly dropped the thing!).

Changing the seal was quite routine - I used a 52mm impact socket as a drift to drive in the new one. Then I just re-assembled everything else using new bolts & M20 nyloc nut for the flange, torquing everything to specs..

I even remembered to put new oil in the T/F box (!!).

All appears good, with no nasty vibes or oil leaks.

Thanks to all for the helpful input.

Cheers,

Lionel

23rd Jan 2022 6:08am

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Excellent and thanks for updating the thread.

23rd Jan 2022 11:31am

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum