 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Turns over but wont fire up |
 
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| Doodlefish Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 54  |
I have noticed other threads with a solution simply reading "...solved due to loose connector to the LH side of gearbox.."
Can anyone shed any light? |
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4th Jan 2022 7:09am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
see your p0113 post
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4th Jan 2022 4:02pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565  
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Similar symptoms to mine (which turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor) but I think that will throw up different error codes?
I had a fuel pump (and turbo actuator) replaced just prior to that due to intermittent failure to start too. Replacing the sensor's cured it for now but it felt very 'fuel-related' until that was found. Hope you find it. |
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4th Jan 2022 5:14pm |
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| Doodlefish Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 54 |
Thanks Doc P, I will look into that. Not the first time I have read up on the crankshaft sensor as an issue and it is now one of the few things not changed.
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5th Jan 2022 8:52am |
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| wee-man Member Since: 27 Jan 2019 Location: IP14 Posts: 37 
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Identical to mine and started to happen immediately after a clutch replacement, replaced crankshaft sensor (correct procedure followed) and has been without issue ever since. |
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5th Jan 2022 12:18pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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^^^^^^^^^
If the crankshaft position sensor was faulty I would have expected a P1336 DTC. Ps wee-man . Is there a special procedure for fitting the sensor, it looks like it’s a rivet removal to get the small heat shield off, electrical connector removal, one bolt removal, then pull the sensor out, push new sensor in , bolt in and torqued, connector on, re rivet small heat shield. |
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5th Jan 2022 12:34pm |
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| Doodlefish Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 54 |
I am not convinced the crankshaft sensor would effect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Input fault the P0113 code suggests.
As I have replaced the MAF sensor and the MAF connector it seems it can only be the Wiring Harness surely. If all else fails I will change the crankshaft sensor but would prefer to target the fault via the fault code for the time being. |
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5th Jan 2022 12:36pm |
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| wee-man Member Since: 27 Jan 2019 Location: IP14 Posts: 37
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I know not why but there were no fault codes when mine started to fail much to my annoyance. I am "blessed" with not having the heatshield fitted, the last owner removed it and left it off. The procedure, from memory, involved turning the crank until one of the raised peaks was in the opening then fitting the nose of the sensor against it and therefore setting the height correctly before clamping up tight. The whole experience was a real headscratcher but made sense in the end, it felt like a fuel issue relating to a relay, immobiliser or even the ignition switch. I replaced the crankshaft sensor in desperation and low and behold the fault has gone. |
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5th Jan 2022 2:05pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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Thanks wee-man, I had a look at the ford workshop manual, and as you state you must ensure a flywheel tooth is visible in the centre of the aperture so when you fit the sensor it’s tip is resting on the tooth. If not visible then rotate crankshaft CLOCKWISE until a tooth is in correct position. Tighten bolt to 7nm. Fit shield, job done .
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5th Jan 2022 5:01pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17361 
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The CPS heat shield has a tendency to commit suicide all by itself and just disappear off the vehicle. Mine was missing when I bought my Defender and is still missing 12 years and quarter of a million miles later.
Its absence doesn't seem to cause any particular problem, although it might be more significant on a 2.2 with a DPF. |
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5th Jan 2022 5:32pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565
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Oh the irony.........it won't start today.
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7th Jan 2022 2:13pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565
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Not starting and I’m at my wits end with it now. No warning lights on the dash this time. New fuel pump and crankshaft position sensor. Starter motor sounds good. Battery fully charged. New key fob battery etc.etc.
But no ignition. I don’t have a code reader and I’ve run out of knowledge. Any easy checks? I was thinking of electrical issues again. Likely fuses or relays to check? Is it likely to be an earthing issue? Is it something worse, like lack of compression that’s the problem? She was starting and running very well until yesterday. I don’t know where to turn to this time. Thanks folks. |
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8th Jan 2022 7:10am |
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| Doodlefish Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 54 |
Firstly, thanks to all that fired in ideas. I definitely picked up some new things even if they weren't all part of my issues.
Anyway, after changing the obvious split intercooler and with faults still showing I started again on the tests. My original MAF Sensor had a P0101 fault (air mass) and the new MAF sensor had a fault P0113 (air temp). I didnt realise my new MAF was faulty so assumed wiring. I have now purchased another MAF sensor and we are all good. Lesson is, dont assume a new part is fit to go. I had used an OEM part so never occured to me it was this that had a fault. Lesson learnt |
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1st Feb 2022 9:47am |
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