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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
Drop arm replacement
Right…. I absolutely mullered a couple of splines on the drop arm shaft. Big Cry

My engineering practices ran out of steam within the 2 hour attempt of removing it Rolling with laughter

The threads are fine I just got a “little” carried away with the grinder

So I’m assuming if I just let it cold weld on like they do we should be sound….

Or am I Censored - and have to get a replacement box

(I have driven the car quite hard since but no off-roading)

It’s all fun at the end of the day Thumbs Up 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #934308 19th Dec 2021 8:38pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3469

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Having grinder cuts on the shaft is introducing stress concentration in the shaft.
Luckily for you, probably the steering box is working harder at slower speeds.
Personally I would not risk it with a critical safety component like a steering box. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #934336 20th Dec 2021 6:33am
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
Fair say - I’ll keep a look out for some recon or 2nd hand box’s then Thumbs Up 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #934342 20th Dec 2021 7:31am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5789

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Can you put a pic of the damage?

If not deep cut, I wouldn’t be overly concerned, I also assume the cut isn’t across the shaft but along it.
Post #934344 20th Dec 2021 7:49am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2270

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
Yup, a pic will help assess the damage.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #934361 20th Dec 2021 11:34am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3469

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Re: Drop arm replacement
LJMARSDEN wrote:


(I have driven the car quite hard since but no off-roading)




I think it is all buttoned up... out of sight, out of mind Rolling with laughter 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #934517 21st Dec 2021 11:11am
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
Welp…. I’ve gone and replaced the steering box

And now I’m facing the joys of a couple of more issues

Bleeding it is a Censored

And I don’t know if this is caused by air in the system but I have a notching feeling going from RH down then passed centre…. It improved when I began bleeding but is still there so I’ll bleed it again after a few days worth of driving and then we shall see

If u guys want a laugh I’ll show u the state of the spline next time I’m at the unit Rolling with laughter

Merry Christmas 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #934964 24th Dec 2021 5:00pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2270

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
New adwest box ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #934981 24th Dec 2021 6:49pm
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
I don’t know what “adwest” is. But, it’s a standard reconditioned box from “the steering specialist” on eBay 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #934983 24th Dec 2021 7:01pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17541

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Adwest was the original manufacturer of all Defender steering boxes.

Time was when you had two choices for a replacement box: an Adwest box or a defective box. Times have however changed, and Adwest boxes are harder to get. Defective boxes sadly are not.
Post #934986 24th Dec 2021 7:06pm
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
Ooooooooo, fingers crossed I haven’t got a Censored then… Big Cry Rolling with laughter 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #934991 24th Dec 2021 7:30pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3469

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
And there was the Gemmer box, distinguishable by the 6 bolts.

On the bleeding issue, a full right lock should remove air and oil from the top side of the actuator(only way to bleed that part). A full left would pressurize the top side (would be front end if the box) of the actuator. Generally a few full locks left/right should expel most air, and then only need to bleed whats on top of the box through the bleeding nipple.

Just ensure that the oil is not foaming. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #934993 24th Dec 2021 7:39pm
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 822

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
I recommend doing the full left/right etc then switching off for maybe half an hour before removing reservoir cap and then opening box bleed nipple with engine still off and allowing any air out of the nipple just under the force of gravity.
When trying to bleed these boxes in a hurry with the engine running it all gets a bit frothy and you don't get anywhere fast. Better to take your time and let natural settlement do most of the work for you.
I don't remember ever really struggling to get it bled, but then I do do the initial fill and bleed by gravity with the engine off which seems to give good results. Maybe this leaves much less air in the pump and box to get whisked into the oil when the engine is started?
Post #935007 24th Dec 2021 11:04pm
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
You make a good point about the fluid frothing- I can certainly hear it when I’m turning the wheel as I’m attempting to bleed it.

I’ll give this a go today as I have a few smaller jobs I can do in the meantime on the car. Thumbs Up 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #935119 26th Dec 2021 10:31am
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LJMARSDEN



Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Other HT Java Black
I Like Old Skool wrote:
I recommend doing the full left/right etc then switching off for maybe half an hour before removing reservoir cap and then opening box bleed nipple with engine still off and allowing any air out of the nipple just under the force of gravity.
When trying to bleed these boxes in a hurry with the engine running it all gets a bit frothy and you don't get anywhere fast. Better to take your time and let natural settlement do most of the work for you.
I don't remember ever really struggling to get it bled, but then I do do the initial fill and bleed by gravity with the engine off which seems to give good results. Maybe this leaves much less air in the pump and box to get whisked into the oil when the engine is started?


After I let the engine rest for 30 do I open both the reservoir cap and undo the nipple? Or do I keep the red closed and just into the nipple 4.0 V8 Defender 90

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Post #935144 26th Dec 2021 1:05pm
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