Home > Puma (Tdci) > Waxoyling advise for Puma |
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WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935 |
Those are the plugs for the windscreen wipers on the LHD model. Not sure if they give access to the hollow section of bulkhead. Others are sure to be along soon who have more knowledge. Zagato is your man LANDYWATCH
Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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4th Oct 2011 9:02pm |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
There are plenty of posts that cover much of this and Zag made good use of some of them both before and after he got his own Puma A good way of getting wax inside the A posts is via the door hinge screw holes - just remove one screw at a time and use a fine lance. There is also a reasonably sized drain hole at the bottom of the A post close to the outrigger which is also good for getting wax inside the length of the post and top of the bulkhead - again using a fine lance.
As Welsh Gas says the rubber bungs under the screen are another good access point, the rest of the bulkhead can be reached via the engine bay, behind the wheel arch liners and from underneath using fixed head and flexible spray lances. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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4th Oct 2011 9:32pm |
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mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038 |
First bit is true, second bit is important! Mike |
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4th Oct 2011 10:41pm |
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mermoto Member Since: 21 Sep 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 326 |
Cheers guys
So do you think it is safe to spray in the two bung holes? Mermoto |
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5th Oct 2011 9:55pm |
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mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038 |
I did when i had one Mike
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5th Oct 2011 10:00pm |
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double cab happy Member Since: 01 Jun 2009 Location: merseyside Posts: 573 |
[quote="Miserableolgit"] A good way of getting wax inside the A posts is via the door hinge screw holes - just remove one screw at a time and use a fine lance. There is also a reasonably sized drain hole at the bottom of the A post close to the outrigger which is also good for getting wax inside the length of the post and top of the bulkhead - again using a fine lance.
quote] easier way is to remove both screws on the A post and you will see a larger hole between the two bolt holes, which means you can get a larger spray hose/lance in there, you can do this for each hinge and if you leave the door shut it just bolts back on no problems, don't wast your time with the rear door hindges (not the BACK door) as they are not the same, but if you look under the sills you will see a rubber plug, about an inch across, at the bottom of the B piller that easily pops of and lets you get some waxoyl in the forgoten "steel" B piller base, by the way did my bulkhead through the redundant wiper holes, as well as four hindge's off and the drainage holes on both sides, non came in the cab and no extream waxoyl smell, the smell was worse when i removed my door cards and did the doors last month. Mark |
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5th Oct 2011 10:00pm |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
^^That's a good way of getting into the A posts Mark but in my opinion you need to keep a supply of captive nuts handy as they sometimes come loose and fall off even on brand new vehicles. This is why I didn't recommend removing the whole hinge for the novice sprayer.
Whatever method you use make sure you put some Copperslip on the screw threads before refitting as this will probably save you a world of grief if you plan on keeping the vehicle long term. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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6th Oct 2011 6:21am |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
^^That's a good way of getting into the A posts Mark but in my opinion you need to keep a supply of captive nuts handy as they sometimes come loose and fall off even on brand new vehicles. This is why I didn't recommend removing the whole hinge for the novice sprayer.
Whatever method you use make sure you put some Copperslip on the screw threads before refitting as this will probably save you a world of grief if you plan on keeping the vehicle long term. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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6th Oct 2011 6:21am |
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double cab happy Member Since: 01 Jun 2009 Location: merseyside Posts: 573 |
now i think of it Steve, i did have some slight issues with the captive nuts, a may well of had a lucky escape on one of them,
any one know where i can get stainless steel captive nuts without paying the kit premium? Mark |
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6th Oct 2011 8:28am |
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mermoto Member Since: 21 Sep 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 326 |
Thanks again Guys - Pulled the two rubber plugs today and sprayed Dinitrol inside with my flexi wand. Also removed the door pillar Torx screws, one by one and sprayed directly through the holes. Could see some very light vapour rising through the interiour vents but nothing nasty entering the cab - yet! Had wax running out of the bottom of the door pillar under the vehicle though so it definitely penetrated down.
Rather difficult to see much at the back of the engine bay on the bulk head so applied liberal spray to that area avoiding the exhaust. Interestingly I sprayed upwards at the bulkhead to the underside of the water channel that runs directly under the windscreen and noticed a number of places where the wax came out inbetween the channel and the bulk head so clearly any water running down the windscreen into the channel is not all moved to either end of this channel, some of it runs straight in to the engine compartment running down the front of the bulk head. Mermoto |
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6th Oct 2011 4:50pm |
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spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4709 |
Waxoiling underneath our new arrival today and the plastic pipe attacing the nozzle to the cannister suddenly came loose. Good thing I was wearing goggles as they got clattered-as did everything else around me. Hell of a mess to clear up. Mission aborted until tomorrow-maybe. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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6th Oct 2011 6:30pm |
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