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mermoto



Member Since: 21 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 326

Waxoyling advise for Puma
I recently treated my 90 to a thorough under clean and Dinitrol waxing. I now want to get some wax in the bulkhead but not sure where it is safe to spray it in without getting any on the inside of the cabin or the back of the engine. I see there are two rectangular rubber seals under the front windscreen that are easily removed. Is it safe to poke my wax wand through there and spray without getting inside the cab or on anything sensitive? Where else on the Puma can I get access the vulnerable areas of the bulkhead?

Any advice gratefully received Smile

Mermoto
Post #92692 4th Oct 2011 8:56pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Those are the plugs for the windscreen wipers on the LHD model. Not sure if they give access to the hollow section of bulkhead. Others are sure to be along soon who have more knowledge. Zagato is your man Bow down LANDYWATCH

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http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #92695 4th Oct 2011 9:02pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
There are plenty of posts that cover much of this and Zag made good use of some of them both before and after he got his own Puma Rolling Eyes A good way of getting wax inside the A posts is via the door hinge screw holes - just remove one screw at a time and use a fine lance. There is also a reasonably sized drain hole at the bottom of the A post close to the outrigger which is also good for getting wax inside the length of the post and top of the bulkhead - again using a fine lance.

As Welsh Gas says the rubber bungs under the screen are another good access point, the rest of the bulkhead can be reached via the engine bay, behind the wheel arch liners and from underneath using fixed head and flexible spray lances. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #92700 4th Oct 2011 9:32pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5038

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Miserableolgit wrote:
There are plenty of posts that cover much of this and Zag made good use of some of them both before and after he got his own Puma Rolling Eyes A good way of getting wax inside the A posts is via the door hinge screw holes - just remove one screw at a time and use a fine lance. There is also a reasonably sized drain hole at the bottom of the A post close to the outrigger which is also good for getting wax inside the length of the post and top of the bulkhead - again using a fine lance.

As Welsh Gas says the rubber bungs under the screen are another good access point, the rest of the bulkhead can be reached via the engine bay, behind the wheel arch liners and from underneath using fixed head and flexible spray lances.


First bit is true, second bit is important! Mike
Post #92712 4th Oct 2011 10:41pm
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mermoto



Member Since: 21 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 326

Cheers guys Thumbs Up

So do you think it is safe to spray in the two bung holes?

Mermoto
Post #92880 5th Oct 2011 9:55pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5038

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
I did when i had one Thumbs Up Mike
Post #92881 5th Oct 2011 10:00pm
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double cab happy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
Posts: 573

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
[quote="Miserableolgit"] A good way of getting wax inside the A posts is via the door hinge screw holes - just remove one screw at a time and use a fine lance. There is also a reasonably sized drain hole at the bottom of the A post close to the outrigger which is also good for getting wax inside the length of the post and top of the bulkhead - again using a fine lance.

quote]


easier way is to remove both screws on the A post and you will see a larger hole between the two bolt holes, which means you can get a larger spray hose/lance in there, you can do this for each hinge and if you leave the door shut it just bolts back on no problems, don't wast your time with the rear door hindges (not the BACK door) as they are not the same, but if you look under the sills you will see a rubber plug, about an inch across, at the bottom of the B piller that easily pops of and lets you get some waxoyl in the forgoten "steel" B piller base,

by the way did my bulkhead through the redundant wiper holes, as well as four hindge's off and the drainage holes on both sides, non came in the cab and no extream waxoyl smell, the smell was worse when i removed my door cards and did the doors last month.

Mark
Post #92882 5th Oct 2011 10:00pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
^^That's a good way of getting into the A posts Mark but in my opinion you need to keep a supply of captive nuts handy as they sometimes come loose and fall off even on brand new vehicles. This is why I didn't recommend removing the whole hinge for the novice sprayer.

Whatever method you use make sure you put some Copperslip on the screw threads before refitting as this will probably save you a world of grief if you plan on keeping the vehicle long term. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #92893 6th Oct 2011 6:21am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
^^That's a good way of getting into the A posts Mark but in my opinion you need to keep a supply of captive nuts handy as they sometimes come loose and fall off even on brand new vehicles. This is why I didn't recommend removing the whole hinge for the novice sprayer.

Whatever method you use make sure you put some Copperslip on the screw threads before refitting as this will probably save you a world of grief if you plan on keeping the vehicle long term. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #92894 6th Oct 2011 6:21am
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double cab happy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
Posts: 573

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
now i think of it Steve, i did have some slight issues with the captive nuts, a may well of had a lucky escape on one of them,

any one know where i can get stainless steel captive nuts without paying the kit premium?

Mark
Post #92908 6th Oct 2011 8:28am
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mermoto



Member Since: 21 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 326

Thanks again Guys - Pulled the two rubber plugs today and sprayed Dinitrol inside with my flexi wand. Also removed the door pillar Torx screws, one by one and sprayed directly through the holes. Could see some very light vapour rising through the interiour vents but nothing nasty entering the cab - yet! Had wax running out of the bottom of the door pillar under the vehicle though so it definitely penetrated down. Thumbs Up

Rather difficult to see much at the back of the engine bay on the bulk head so applied liberal spray to that area avoiding the exhaust. Interestingly I sprayed upwards at the bulkhead to the underside of the water channel that runs directly under the windscreen and noticed a number of places where the wax came out inbetween the channel and the bulk head so clearly any water running down the windscreen into the channel is not all moved to either end of this channel, some of it runs straight in to the engine compartment running down the front of the bulk head. Evil or Very Mad

Mermoto
Post #92994 6th Oct 2011 4:50pm
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4709

Ireland 
Waxoiling underneath our new arrival today and the plastic pipe attacing the nozzle to the cannister suddenly came loose. Good thing I was wearing goggles as they got clattered-as did everything else around me. Hell of a mess to clear up. Mission aborted until tomorrow-maybe. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #93015 6th Oct 2011 6:30pm
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