 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Fuel pump - advice. |
 
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997  
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Just jumped into my 2.2 puma to check. When you move key to ignition 1 nothing. Moving to ignition 11 , ie dash lights on then there is a very distinctive hum from the fuel tank as the pump is started and running.
This makes sense as when I change my fuel filter I can fit an empty fuel filter and fill it by switching to position 11, then back to one, then repeat 5 -10 times and the new empty fuel filter is then full. Noting each cycle actually delivers approx 500ml of fuel into the filter. So the 3rd or 4th cycle is likely purging air through the system. Some do 7 cycles, some do 10 to ensure all air is purged The process for priming a TD5 is the press accelerator 5 times, for the 2.2 TDCI its the turn to ignition 11 position and back at least 5 times as stated above. See link for more info https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70520.html So if you lean backwards to listen, turn to ignition 1 and pause 30 seconds so all is quiet, then turn to ignition 11 you should hear a distinctive very audible hum. If not I would say your pump is not running. It may well be a bad wiring connection not giving the pump enough current to work well, or a pump failing. I wonder if when the tank is full it works ok but when less full it starts to fail as a full fuel tank is helping the pump with gravity. hence it works sometimes but not others |
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21st Sep 2021 11:59am |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565 
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Was the fuel pump. It intermittently failed as part of its death throes (I thought it’d just pack in, but nothing’s that simple). Took a while to figure out.
Then, went into limp mode due to a turbo fault - the actuator was knackered with coking-up. Big bill later, she’s back and running beautifully (better than I remember her ever being). How can I prevent the turbo actuator from coking up again? Is there an additive I can use or is it a tuning issue? |
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29th Oct 2021 4:20pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565
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FFS. Back in limp mode.
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31st Oct 2021 9:19pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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Do you have a code reader ? If so you could post the Diagnostic trouble codes that have triggered the check engine light and limp mode, which will help I’d the problem.
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31st Oct 2021 9:36pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20342
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Might sound overly simple but check the battery grounding both negative battery clamp and t box.
With power isolated check the master fuse is secure on the positive post (it’s down the side of it) including power feed lug and fixing. And then also starter motor feeds and alternator, especially the starter power input. (Make sure battery is disconnected first). The VCV is on the fuel pump, at least on a 2.4 I assume the 2.2 has a VCV too? When the VCV fails it can cause cutting out or poor starting and symptoms similar to this. Due to the fact it doesn’t log DTC’s and affects performance a lot it may cause false flagged up DTC’s for other things. For example a failing EGR can sometimes flag up MAF DTC’s even though the MAF is working correctly. How old is the MAF and MAP sensors and or when we’re they last cleaned? If you have a multimeter check battery voltage at rest, if and when it is running check voltage then also with alternator running. Voltage drop during cranking could be useful too, though dropping down to about 8v on a Defender can be common on momentary cranking. It shouldn’t go lower than that though. Usually battery at rest is about 12.2 - 12 .8v give or take, with engine running and alternator charging usually around the 14.4 - 14.7v range approximately. Most of these things are free or not very costly, May draw a blank but might find an issue that maybe present. If it still is the fuel pump then live diagnostics with live statistics I.e fuel pump pressures and injector pressures might be required and then it gets rather complicated and outside my scope of knowledge. Good luck. 👍🏻 $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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31st Oct 2021 10:03pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565
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Thanks all.
She's back in the garage with the orange engine management light on the dash but she started and rab normally this morning when I took her in. I'll ask Matt to check the sensors Steve. It's a relatively new battery (around 2 years old and a good one) but it was stood unused for some weeks awaiting a fuel pump. Ian |
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1st Nov 2021 10:28am |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565
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The fault code reader suggested the DPF was the issue apparently. Started, but with the warning light staying on. Then, light went out when next started. Seemed to run ok on Wednesday.
Yesterday, hard start (starter motor turned for a good 8 or 9 revs before fired up) then warning light again. Ran ok initially, then went into limp mode after changing down when the revs drop. Stopped, turned ignition on again and was out of limp mode. Did this twice. Drove (at risk) up and down dual carriageway for 2x trips of at least 20 miles to try and clean the DPF. Ran ok. Wouldn’t start this morning. Starter motor turns fine. Back to the drawing board. |
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5th Nov 2021 9:01am |
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| Shabba168 Member Since: 19 Jun 2023 Location: Dorset Posts: 2  
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Did you get to the bottom of this.
Mine has a similar fault. If left for a day it’s hard to start but I can hear the pump running |
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1st Jul 2023 7:42pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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Try by "bridging" the inertia switch located bulkhead behind the rhs of the engine Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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2nd Jul 2023 2:30pm |
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