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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
One piece half shaft fitting
Gents

I am currently in the process of fitting one piece half shafts to my 2014 110, these were supplied by IRB a while back.

I am having difficulty pushing the shaft in the last 6 inches ( where I would describe the shaft as thickening a bit )
I can near it waggling or moving slightly inside the casing but it won’t seem to go in.
I am being pretty gentle and making sure that the holes line up but it just won’t get over the thickened bit ( not very technical description )

It is the correct side half shaft I have to add just in case someone suggests the obvious but can anyone give me a clue please.
Post #923373 29th Sep 2021 11:08am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
The thickened bit is there to fit snugly within the hub seal, which is there to stop the diff oil going into the hub. A little grease on the thickened bit and rotating the drive shaft as you apply a little pressure should help it slide into the hub seal.

Worth checking if there are any burrs and comparing the champher on the thickened bit of the new drive shaft to the one you removed plus if you have a vernier calliper see if the diameters are the same.

Ps I’m assuming the thickened bit is getting past the opening recess in the hub, if it’s not getting past that then it’s different issue.


Last edited by Ianh on 29th Sep 2021 4:56pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #923389 29th Sep 2021 12:19pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
I have had a check with my gauges and they certainly look the same.

I took it out and put the old driveshaft back in and it slipped in no worries.

I have googled the part number ( LR072977 ) and it comes back Defender 2002 onwards, I am hopeful this is the correct part number for the vehicle, I can’t see IRB making that mistake!
Post #923442 29th Sep 2021 4:19pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
Have a look at this video, about 7 mins in , gives a good idea on the technique needed to get things aligned.

https://youtu.be/ayjvgZ_r8cI
Post #923548 29th Sep 2021 10:02pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
Hopefully, after a bit of lubrication they will slide into the diff as easily as that, thanks for the video link.

We will see how we get on tomorrow.
Post #923556 29th Sep 2021 11:42pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
So continuing on from yesterday, after watching the video still no luck.

Here’s a stupid question, should I actually have the wheel off ( which it isn’t at present )
I have read comments from others saying they have managed this without taking the wheel off or jacking the vehicle up.

Is it possible that I have the wrong shafts or am I being particularly thick?
Post #923654 30th Sep 2021 10:02am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2298

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Shouldn't need the wheel off.

Are you sure it's getting stuck at the oil seal and not at the diff end?

Try putting a little downward pressure on the flange end so as to lift the splined end up off the axle tube so that the shaft is entering parallel to the axle tube rather than the splines sliding along the bottom of tube if you catch my drift? Also turn the flange back and forth a bit smidge as you push.

They will go in, I have them on mine


Click image to enlarge
 > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #923655 30th Sep 2021 10:08am
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
I have been as you describe putting a little downward pressure on them to assist them along.

I have been putting pressure on them but it seems to be stuck on what I would describe as
the thickened part of the shaft on the last 6 inches towards the cap end.
No amount of pressure seems to have any effect on the shaft moving.

I have emailed IRB to ask about the shafts, so I am hoping for a response to my enquiry.

Putting the old shafts back in at the moment so I can have use of the vehicle. I really don’t like admitting defeat😫


Last edited by trailbear on 30th Sep 2021 5:07pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #923657 30th Sep 2021 10:16am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 659

2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
Just line up the shafts at the diff end by twisting until it engages and shove it in. You don’t have to be delicate, it’s not going to ruin the hub seal. 👍
Post #923673 30th Sep 2021 11:23am
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glpinxit



Member Since: 31 Jul 2010
Location: rural Somerset
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 
Health warning- I haven't done this yet but am thinking of it so what follows is based on reading the question and following comments:
I assume that the halfshaft is pushed in at whatever 'clock position' means it engages with the diff splines. Then the wheel/hub is rotated so the holes line up and the nuts can be inserted and tightened. If trying to align the shaft with the hub then the splines may not mesh at the other end. Cheers, Guy.
Post #923674 30th Sep 2021 11:27am
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1599

United Kingdom 
check the diff end of the splines do not have burrs on them. we have had a set that did and needed a little filing to make them fit.
Post #923675 30th Sep 2021 11:29am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
trailbear wrote:
So continuing on from yesterday, after watching the video still no luck.

Here’s a stupid question, should I actually have the wheel off ( which it isn’t at present )
I have read comments from others saying they have managed this without taking the wheel off or jacking the vehicle up.

Is it possible that I have the wrong shafts or am I being particularly thick?


Given you are having issues I would jack the vehicle , place on stand, remove wheel then try again as you will now have maximum wiggle room with both hub and shaft as you endeavour to align everything up and engage with diff.

Re having the wrong shafts, just measure and compare diameters , lengths and splines ends with existing shaft. Measure diameters at several points in the same place to ensure its truly circular on the thickest part and spline end, check shaft is not bent using a straight edge such as a spirit level as you may have the right part but with a defect.

When meeting with resistance does it sound like a metal on metal clunk or a metal on rubber seal thud? That will help understand where the resistance is.


Last edited by Ianh on 30th Sep 2021 12:49pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #923688 30th Sep 2021 12:19pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
An maybe when you have one wheel off, other wheel on the ground, have a 2nd pair of hands to rotate the prop shaft and see if the diff gears are rubbing agains the half shaft.
Also try rotating the half shaft... does it still rotate, meaning that is is probably rubbing face to face or does it jam, which would happen if there is more of a conical interference. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #923701 30th Sep 2021 12:48pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 
Ok, gents I am going to have another go hopefully this afternoon, thanks for all the advice, I will keep you updated.
Post #923714 30th Sep 2021 1:13pm
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 659

2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
glpinxit wrote:
Health warning- I haven't done this yet but am thinking of it so what follows is based on reading the question and following comments:
I assume that the halfshaft is pushed in at whatever 'clock position' means it engages with the diff splines. Then the wheel/hub is rotated so the holes line up and the nuts can be inserted and tightened. If trying to align the shaft with the hub then the splines may not mesh at the other end.


Correct, it’s easier to do it with either the hub free to rotate or the diff. Easiest way is to to Jack up the axle at one end, place on an axle stand, take the wheel off, existing halfshaft out, new halfshaft in, rotate until engages splines at diff end push in and bolt up to correct torque amounts, wheel back on, axle stand off then do the other side.
Post #923717 30th Sep 2021 1:23pm
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