 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear 3/4 dent - how to repair? |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5877   
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Morning all. Been off comms for a while.
I have recently modified my DC with that ever popular upgrade, a dent in the rear 3/4 panel (who would have thought a plank of wood would be so robust), however, I’m not sure I like the new look and would prefer to return it to the original style. I am wondering about the best way to do this? Obviously I have a DC which I think might offer me greater access, but I’d be grateful for any ideas on how best to tap the panel out. I’d also be keen to know if it is better for me to try and reshape the corner piece or buy and refit a new one? Apologies for the condition as evidenced by the photos, I committed to the upgrade just before double foot surgery so have been off my feet (and away from the Def) for 6 weeks. As such with loads of rain this summer and no cover, the paint has flaked and the rust has taken hold. 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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24th Aug 2021 8:03am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295  
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Hello Grenadier
I'd be tempted to have a go. When you say 'recently'.... as the rust was taking hold... maybe now's the time to get things straight. The Back Panel and Capping look to be good for reshaping (The 'Spine' of the Capping looks OK) Drill the Capping Rivets out, remove and straighten, using nothing hard, slow forming and soft compression / forces applied (use a soft mallet if you must). The Side Panel is the issue I would guess, again slow assessment and encouragement back to an acceptable state. Then there's repainting this all depends on what your happy to take on... even at this stage having progressed straightened potentially buying a new Capping detail you can get it in a shop to take over. Good Luck... When I bought my first Defender, I had been told these vehicles can always be put back on the road with a series of well placed hammer blows... not quite true but I got the idea...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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24th Aug 2021 8:18am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Funnilly enough our man at Britannica has just repaired a 110 with a similar crush...
https://youtu.be/-D0IxuzpLMY Search for Spanish rear wing for the rest of the videos. He does a great job |
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24th Aug 2021 8:56am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5877
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Thank you all. Good info Skip. Happy to rub back and respray myself, as with the other jobs as well. I’ll give it a go when I have a free weekend. And I’ll take a look at the video for a little more meat on the bones.
Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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24th Aug 2021 9:25am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3461  
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For the capping..
I purchased galvanized aftermarket cappings, but re sold them as the holes did not align well enough, and I did not want to drill new holes (some were actually not drilling but elongating the the holes in the tub). Was a no no for me. You can try to clamp the cappiing between two steel sections (example angle iron) in a vice. That will bring the shape to almost perfect already, and you can use the angle iron to check that the capping edges are still perpendicular to each other. As to the alloy panel beating... it is almost an art. Aluminium is very easy to stretch and the result is a bow. Aluminium work hardens very fast and becomes brittle as well. Gentle and no rush is key. You may need to anneal in the process. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Aug 2021 10:35am |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 632 
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Beware the cappings we’re redesigned slightly circa 2014 so if you replace one then the other will not match exactly. They used more rivets to surround the two lights to hold the capping to the panel better.
Hard to tell from the photo but looks like it has already had filler on the side panel as the paint looks too thick on the crack. I have done lots of these dents and usually replace the rear panel then the side panel can be pulled straight and countersunk riveted, before fitting a new vertical capping. If it hadn’t had filler that could be pulled back almost invisibly. I haven’t got a before photos, but this was worse than yoursx first shows panel removal, then finished job. The new rear panel and capping (earlier tdci type) I resprayed, but the side panel is original paint Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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24th Aug 2021 12:11pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3461
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There are actually 3 designs of corner vertical cappings/posts.
The earlier ones, where there was more metal in the tub curvature area. This was till LA939975 The more common ones, less metal around the curvature, from MA939976. Then the change that Oldowner mentions, that to my knowledge came with the 2.2 engine change. These have 4 rivets between the brake light and the indicator lamp, versus 3 rivets till circa end 2011. This damage was a lot worse... there was about 3/8" thickness of filler in the rear corner panel, and a good 1/4" thickness on the side. The rear crossmember outrigger was also bent in 'Puma' style 
After removing the body filler: Click image to enlarge After panel beating: (which I do not take credit of.. but I fine tuned it )
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge After painting: Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Aug 2021 12:44pm |
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