 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Prop shafts throw away? |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414   
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The UJs can be replaced, and quite straightforward to do.
If the splines are worn, then they need to be replaced. Replace complete, or replace UJs depends if you need to pay a garage to do it, or if you can do by yourself. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Jul 2021 6:36am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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For UJ, GKN is the way to go. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Jul 2021 6:37am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2634  
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My guess is that if you having the work done at a garage and paying the labour and VAT it is more cost effective for the person doing the work to spin off the bolts, take the old one off, new on on, test drive, then hand the customer the keys and say it’s fixed.
Also they won’t have the hassle of then finding out the original is out of balance and needs removing and sent away to be repaired. Time for them and your truck is off the road for a few days. In a nutshell you are paying for the convenience. Of cause you could change the UJ’s yourself and then still find it’s lost a weight and out of balance. All depends what price you put on your own time. |
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27th Jul 2021 6:44am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373  
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Some propshaft faults necessitate changing the shaft, for example wear on the spline, however most do not.
A good quality propshaft UJ costs £10 to £20 and both joints in a shaft can be changed, including removing and refitting the shaft, in under an hour. If the shaft balanced before it will be afterwards. Most traditional garages (the ones with "mechanics" rather than "technicians") can change a propshaft UJ in minutes using no more than four tools. A new genuine rear propshaft for a TDCi 110 will set you back between £400 and £500, a new non-descript pattern part around £130, or a new Glyn Lewis HD shaft around £330. Genuine propshafts have for the past few years been adequate rather than impressive. Whilst they are fine for what 95% of owners do for 99% of the time, they are not remotely tough (and very easy to dent), but they will get the kids to school reliably for years. I can't comment on the pattern part quality but I imagine that some are good and some are not. Glyn Lewis (and probably most other HD specialist aftermarket shafts) are excellent, being of thicker material with larger UJs. My preference has always been to replace UJs on genuine shafts if the UJ is the issue, and replace with Glyn Lewis shafts at the earliest opportunity I can justify. If you are replacing a front shaft on a Puma there are advantages in fitting a shaft with a DC joint (as was used on the Disco 2). |
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27th Jul 2021 8:20am |
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| hoover Member Since: 18 Jun 2021 Location: North Wales Posts: 23
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I have been wondering the same thing and after rebuilding a prop on another defender, I have decided its simply not worth the effort.
Mine clunks and when I get underneath and shake it, it seems to slide and clank around at the Diff yolk end. As its a 104k mile prop, just replacing the bits eems a bit silly and a new one would be better, I was going for another GKN, but saw these terrafirma ones. Does anybody have any experience or thoughts on the TFWA1070 - TERRAFIRMA WIDE-ANGLED REAR PROPSHAFT - FOR DEFENDER 110 (FITS 2007 ONWARDS - PUMA ENGINE) I like the Glyn Lewis ones, but cant justify the cost. Cheers |
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27th Jul 2021 2:44pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1916  
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Thanks for the replies chaps
I was under the impression the UJ's were a pig to change? I'm sure i have changed them on one of my early discos back in the day. for the price of a set of UJ's i think i will change them out for now.  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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27th Jul 2021 4:50pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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my rear shaft has no splines the splines are actually slots for ball bearings bit like a CV joint!!, not had the front off to check what it is like DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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27th Jul 2021 5:05pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 
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I had some dialogue with Gwyn Lewis a bit ago when I was dithering about getting some new props. In and amongst he told me:-
"The standard PUMA 1350 props are very good quality with Ball Spline sliders, on a 90 you cant get much better than standard If you had a lift and long travel suspension then it is a completely diferent thing as the standard slider won't cope" I kept my standard ones and swapped the UJ's for new. Rgds. Chris Last edited by Pacha on 27th Jul 2021 8:19pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Jul 2021 8:10pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20355
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Standard props and new UJ’s on mine too.
Decided to replace all the UJ’s in one go $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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27th Jul 2021 8:14pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373
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No, they're very easy provided that you are moderately competent and know more or less what you are doing. |
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27th Jul 2021 9:57pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1916
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I'm pretty good and do most jobs myself like wheel bearings, new callipers and VCV etc
Will order some this week GKN is the way forward i hear 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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28th Jul 2021 6:10am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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A vice and a couple of sockets, and a good circlip plier is all what you need. But an extra pair of hands will be good to have if using a vice, as you need to hold the shaft, the sockets and wind in the vice at the same time.
If using a press, then it is a bit more easy as gravity is not working against you. Just one tip, when removing the bearing cups, do not push the cross too hard against the jokes so that you do not create a deep burr in the yoke. It is also advisable to mark the original positions of the yokes and take note of the orientation/location of the grease nipple on the cross. Just be gentle during re assembly so as not to push the needles out of their position. Circlips have an orientation... sharp edge of the circlip should face outwards as they offer more bite in their groove. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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28th Jul 2021 6:25am |
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| jaygti Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: essex Posts: 377
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The first time you change one it’ll be a bit of a challenge, but once you’ve done one it’s a relatively easy ( but dirty) hours work. 👍🏻 2002 td5 90 county hardtop |
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28th Jul 2021 7:38am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20355
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Put an smear of grease around the roller bearings in the cups prior to assembly to keep them in place.
This is the point where you need to be careful most installing them. The annoyance I had with mine was paint on the cirlips and yolks which made the job more difficult. However, it was the first time doing it for me so understandable really. Once refitted and settled in it’s been much better, a kind of clunk excess movement between gears as taking off is a sign of the UJ’s going. As well as other things of course. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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28th Jul 2021 11:54am |
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