agentmulder wrote:

Lots of ways, I'll outline the 'traditional' way.

You'll need:

- Length bit of clear tube that fits nicely over the bleed outlet
- Receiving pan
- A (patient) buddy.
- Open ended spanner (I forget the size sorry! maybe 13mm?)
- Hacksaw/file/anglegrinder - basically some kind of metal removal device

Climb underneath vehicle, find the bleed valve which is on the left hand side of the bell housing. Take off dirt cover, put on tube, put other end in a pan.

It is part#1 here - but most of that is inside the housing:


Click image to enlarge

If you cant find it follow the pipe from the master which is part#3 here:


Click image to enlarge (bleed valve is #19 here)

Master is situated above the clutch pedal, in the engine bay.

Anyhoo, so try to open the valve and fail - note that the valve isn't a hex, it's just two flats instead so you'll have to modify your spanner to work (shorten, grind down etc.)

Grab your buddy, give em coffee, put on some tunes etc.

Open bonnet, find master reservoir, open and top up the level if it isn't already. Put cap back on (if you don't your buddy will blow liquid into your engine bay which will then drip on your face)

Get underneath again and open the valve with your spanner, likely you'll see some dark liquid come out - good.

Get buddy to slowly push clutch in. Liquid will flow.

Close valve. Get buddy to release clutch pedal.

Open valve. Get buddy to slowly push clutch in. Liquid will flow.

Close valve. Get buddy to release clutch pedal.

Open valve. Get buddy to slowly push clutch in. Liquid will flow.

...

Keep doing this until either the reservoir runs low on liquid or you're happy with results. A full purge of the old liquid will need at least a few reservoir top-ups. If it goes too low you'll just get air in there which means start all over again!

Happy with results = liquid flowing out of bleed valve is the same colour as the stuff you put in and there are no bubbles in it.

You might have trouble getting air past the pipe section that runs behind the ECU, which for some 'design' reason forms a nice air trap - top work LR designers! (either way ... if it's intentional maybe there is a good reason for it?)

If that is the case maybe get your buddy to be a bit more forceful with the clutch and do the iterations between reservoir top-ups quicker, or better yet read up on a reverse bleed style approach or suction below

Once the bleed is closed, any pedal push should feel nice and firm throughout the push.

Proof is in the pudding really, take it for a spin.

Thanks for this Agentmulder.

One wee add...I used a bleed pipe with a valve in it,:

Click image to enlarge
This made it a one-man job (used the same pipe for bleeding brakes on the Defender last year).
The "bleed nipple" is a plastic valve as noted above, it fits a 13mm spanner. You only have to open 1 turn, and close gently, it would be easy to damage it...
Because I had the pipe with the valve, I only had to open it once, and then close at the end.
Also just to note, once you remove pressure from the clutch, the pedal no longer rises on it's own.
I found 3 pumps (by hand) was enough to almost empty the fluid reservoir, so every 3 pumps I topped up the fluid in the reservoir. I did this 6 times and that flushed the pipework sufficiently.
Of the half litre of fluid, I probably only used 60% Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)