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Moffett



Member Since: 08 May 2018
Location: Sligo
Posts: 69

Ireland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Changing the radiator
Hi folks, I have a new rad and intercooler. Is this a massive job? Will I be able to work around the aircon condenser? And have new intercooler pipes too. Any advice would be appreciated.
Post #910217 30th Jun 2021 9:33pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17715

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It's certainly pretty straightforward on a vehicle without aircon, but I've never done it on one with, I'm afraid.
Post #910230 1st Jul 2021 12:23am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2324

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The three 'radiators' are arranged (front to back) air con condenser, intercooler, radiator.

I once fitted just a new intercooler as I expect many have... This is fiddly as the intercooler is sandwiched between the condenser and radiator so you have to pry the two apart and work top down.

If you fit both intercooler and radiator then you will be making life a lot easier for yourself as you can leave the condenser well alone at the front then work front to back fitting the intercooler first (and pipework which pass through notches in the radiator end tanks) then fit the radiator. Pretty simple job for the home mechanic Thumbs Up > 110 XS Double Cab


Last edited by hank on 1st Jul 2021 10:10am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #910244 1st Jul 2021 8:47am
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

United Kingdom 
When I did my rad recently, I removed everything (aircon and intercooler). Think you'll end up doing a lot of yanking of pipes so having some room helps.

I don't think I could have done it with the air con condenser in place but that might be down to my level of mechanical expertise Rolling with laughter

You might need new green o-rings for the condenser connections when putting back on.

This also took me way longer than the 2 hours Haynes says it will take! Laughing

I have some pictures of different stages so can PM them if you need.
Post #910254 1st Jul 2021 9:45am
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Moffett



Member Since: 08 May 2018
Location: Sligo
Posts: 69

Ireland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I was worried about that, did you recharge the aircon yourself? Pictures would be greatly appreciated!
Post #910302 1st Jul 2021 6:59pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

United Kingdom 
I was planning on recharging myself but I sent the car in for some work so I didn’t get around to it. I’ll do it when it come la back as I think if will be useful to have the kit as then I can do my other cars.

I’ll pm you tomorrow with some pictures.
Post #910367 1st Jul 2021 11:21pm
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
I removed my intercooler once without completely removing the AC condenser, It was tight but possible.
It will be much easier job if you remove it but I didn't want to deal with the refrigerant.
Post #910437 2nd Jul 2021 11:18am
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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 65

Sweden 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Another couple of years has passed and presumably more members have attempted to change the radiator. Do we have a final verdict, can it be done on an A/C vehicle without braking the A/C lines?
I am having this job on my to-do list and wonder if I need to find a certified A/C mechanic to do it for me.
Post #1065639 16th Apr 2025 10:16am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1232

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I did my radiator a few years back and I cannot recall the AC every getting in the way at all. Was fairly uneventful affair.I left the intercooler in place so can't comment on that. Those connecting pipes are fairly big and tug underneath so maybe that could be fiddly, but a lot of the obstruction is the radiator so...

Most people fall on step one bu not being able to remove the fan. I recommend investing in (making) a tool to hold the pulley and obviously the special fan spanner. Obviously helps to check which way to undo the nut, can't recall which way but quick internet search sorts that out.
Post #1065640 16th Apr 2025 10:39am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2257

United Kingdom 
I changed the radiator on mine (2.2. 110) when I changed the intercooler. Absolutely no need to touch the aircon components at all.
Post #1065669 16th Apr 2025 7:45pm
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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 65

Sweden 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Thanks, that's reassuring.

I had the fan off last year and manufactured a retaining tool so I've got that one covered. I used a regular 36mm spanner for the fan.

Sounds like an enjoyable job then, something to look forward to. Smile
Post #1065688 17th Apr 2025 7:27am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1984

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
done mine last weekend, took me about 3 hours all in but i did tidy up the front end with Dinetrol, spray the AC rad, changed most fixings for stainless etc.

Not a bad little job to do really, i needed a viscous tool for the fan Thumbs Up 2023 Defender L663 V8
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Post #1065697 17th Apr 2025 9:06am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2257

United Kingdom 
With Radiator hoses off you can remove the lower engine cowel. This is a great opportunity to change out the turbo to intercooler hose for a silicon one as it makes the process much easier and those hoses do deteriorate over time.

More money but a stitch in time etc,

Ps Nissens make a great radiator for the Puma, it’s relatively cheap, and good or better than OEM.

Here is some info that may be useful , I posted it on another topic regarding replacing the intercooler, but it also covers radiator replacement.

Ianh wrote:
A fair bit of swearing..but it’s part of a bigger job, my intercooler has split so I’ve purchased a BAS intercooler plus BAS silicon intercooler hoses. Then on inspection I noticed a very small leak on my radiator, so I purchased a gen LR radiator taken off a delivery mileage 2015 Puma when it had an v8 engine swap from new.

The fun stated yesterday, a cold Saturday morning on my drive.
1Soft A Bar off
2.Aircon grill off
3.Top fan shroud Off
4.Slam panel off, insufficient exposed threads to get right hand studs out using two nut method so needed mole grips to get them out. Good that BAS includes replacement bolts ( better for next time ) Smile
5.Viscous fan off, using BAS tool to hold fan pulley, glad I bought that tool as it was very tight, used long breaker bar to hold tool plus draper single ended open 36mm spanner and slipped 2 ft of jack handle over it to provide leverage. It’s normal counter clockwise to undo, but I did need to double check as I had to apply a fair bit of torque to loosen it.
6.Drained coolant. No fuel cooler on mine so no coolant pipes to drain from on near side chassis rail so had to drain by removing pipe from oil cooler thermostat. Due to location it means you can’t get all into a single bucket so lots of strategically placed containers to catch as much as possible. When drained I hosed all the chassis, in the chassis and all under the truck to wash away residue.
7. Intercooler hoses detached from intercooler
8. Top nearside radiator hose detached, plus small pipe from coolant tank.
9. Bottom fan shroud removed.
10. Left and right brackets removed, prop bonnet with long wood pole going to ground in engine bay where bottom shroud used to be.
11. Lift radiator off bottom mounts and move slightly more into engine bay. This gives room to remove intercooler.
12. Lift intercooler out, nearside first.
13. Detach lower offside radiator pipe then small one on the bottom front of radiator.
14 catch coolant in bucket.
15 remove radiator and wash down area to remove coolant residue.
16 remove nearside intercooler pipe from metal intercooler pipe.
17 remove turbo to intercooler pipe. Remove nut on bracket that holds pipe away from engine and steering parts then bend back bracket.
18 remove intercooler pipe from turbo and manipulate pipe out.
19. Fit new silicon hose. And reattach bracket, make sure pipe is not rubbed by steering parts. BAS states 15 -20mm needs cutting off at turbo end on RHD models, after several tries , cutting a bit more off each time, I found 20mm was correct to avoid steering column rubbing, leaving a 10mm gap, but I do have the bracket to keep it clear.
20. Remove top bolt on metal intercooler pipe bracket.
21. Loosen pipe clip on hose to inlet manifold.

And that’s where I’m at now, so a fair bit of colourful language already, and more to come I expect.
Post #1065699 17th Apr 2025 9:25am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1232

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Catch coolant in a bucket...

Would it not be great if they would have a tap and a hose where you can just completely drain the coolant with not a spill.

My series has such a tap on the block and a plug on the bottom of the radiator, not perfect, but beats pulling a hose and aiming two large flows into a bucket somewhere below the steering guard holes...
Post #1065712 17th Apr 2025 2:13pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20746

United Kingdom 
Just imagine though if such a tap opened itself or got knocked, it’d need to have a safety lock of some type on it, plus not impede flow.
That’s added to the fact there isn’t a low coolant warning, as standard, but can be added. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸
⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1065732 17th Apr 2025 8:30pm
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