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RandomMan



Member Since: 21 Jun 2021
Location: Midlands
Posts: 2
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
My clutch and gearbox
Hello,

Need some support and Landyzone hasn't helped me. So here I am. I have a 2007 2.4 Defender with 60k miles on it

I have a leaky crank seal and have a slipping clutch. I want to replace it. I cant do it myself as I don't have the tools so Ill get my friendly garage to do it. However I don't know whether to:

- Use a standard clutch plate and seal and leave it at that
- Use uprated aftermarket and put in the later slave cylinder and upgrade it all

Is there an advantage to the later slave cylinder?

Also as I have drive chain lash should I replace the gearbox output shaft as well? Do I use a standard shaft or use one of the aftermarket ones there.

I want it simple but I want to do the best job!
Post #908794 21st Jun 2021 3:55pm
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Angus_Beef



Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434
Norway 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
Im nearly in the same boat, but less the leaks.
Definitely do an upgraded output shaft. Ashcroft or LOF. Im going with LOF. Others prefer Ashcroft. Pick what seems best to you.
There are options on clutches as well. I doubt anyone would recommend the standard factory clutch.
Options include, LOF, Clutchfix, and the 4x4 Transit clutch. Probalby some others. I'll probably go for the LOF RoadSpec on my tuned 2.2, but may opt for the new tdci powerspec.

Good luck! Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
Post #908798 21st Jun 2021 4:09pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17383
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The latest genuine clutches are massively better than the early ones (my current one has done 100k miles but it now pretty shot). As noted above, there are many options.

If it was me I would fit an upgraded clutch (my preference is the Transit 4x4 for no particular reason), a genuine current spec slave cylinder, and new genuine limiting valve. For the output adaptor shaft, I would inspect it, and if it appears worn replace with and Ashcroft "wet" shaft. If however it isn't worn in 60k miles, I would grease it generously with molybdenum grease (eg. CV joint grease) and reassemble. If your coupling isn't wearing it doesn't need replacing, just greasing. If it is wearing, replace it.
Post #908809 21st Jun 2021 5:31pm
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