 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Clutch switch |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376  
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Yes, I do have them. The pics are probably missing because I had a clear out of my ‘Gallery’ a few months ago.
Here you can see the Mod.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The female is a rear entry sealed blank for the clutch switch. The Male is the bridge that is for the loom connector. They are 2 Pole Junior Power Timer Connectors, you’d need the housings, pins and seals. I am still running my 90 to this day with the clutch switch bridged and it’s perfect, much better in low range than it was and in general especially with the Shift-R from TMD TOO. (TMD12 offer code on that at the moment!) 12% off. It can flag a DTC on the system, this can be cleared and will only come back if battery is disconnected in my experience but don’t hold me to that. It will NOT cause a MIL aka amber dash fault light. I have had this done now for a good two years permanently and wouldn’t go back. Provides a much better and smoother driver input, with far less harsh override caused by the system which I think is detrimental to the drivetrain especially in low range and low gears. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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18th Apr 2020 11:39am |
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| golffoxtrot Member Since: 12 Oct 2017 Location: London Posts: 2 
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ah - hero, thank you. All very useful, appreciated.
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18th Apr 2020 12:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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 $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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18th Apr 2020 3:01pm |
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| Zixxer Member Since: 04 Dec 2019 Location: Tipperary Posts: 17  
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Wouldn’t it be the same thing to just cut the two wires and join them together? If you’re not too worried about how it looks?
Thanks |
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13th May 2020 1:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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Yes, you could indeed to that. But using my method you preserve the factory fit and is completely reversible.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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13th May 2020 8:11pm |
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| iansaron Member Since: 18 Dec 2019 Location: Livorno Posts: 5  
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Hi everyone, I would love to do this modification as my 2011 Puma 110 2.4 is jerking when letting off the throttle and violently in low range but the pictures aren’t visible. Can anyone send them to me or repost? I am technically inclined but have not ever created separate plugs before so a picture would be useful. Thanks a lot.
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10th Jun 2021 11:29am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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The above second photo I posted is it, the clutch switch is near the bulkhead in the engine bay adjacent to the the brake master cylinder. If yours is a LHD it will likely be to the left of the brake master cylinder and up.
You will see it as a plug and socket arrangement. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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10th Jun 2021 8:55pm |
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| iansaron Member Since: 18 Dec 2019 Location: Livorno Posts: 5
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Great, will give this a try and update! Thanks so much for all the help!
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11th Jun 2021 4:17pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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No problem.
On mine I sealed the rear of one to put on the old clutch switch to keep it clean and dry. And on the incoming connection is where you fit the plug and pins and wire bridge to connect both poles together to create a closed circuit. It seals it up as well and you can tie it up out the way safe and job done. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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11th Jun 2021 7:16pm |
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| Mother superior Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 504
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Blimey!
So beleive it or not I've got a mad clonk in the deafners drive train so I'm always curious about anything clutch/gearbox related in the hopes that I might stumble on something that doesn't involve replacing output shafts/diffs/driveshafts.... Tried this last night and the old ladies clunk is about 95% better, I owe you one gents. Cheers Wes Oh woe, oh woe My crusty old landrover, It will not go. |
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15th Jun 2021 9:30am |
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| Ijk10 Member Since: 01 Apr 2021 Location: Newport Posts: 37  
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Anyone have a link for the connectors please...
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21st Jun 2021 8:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680
It’s the 2 way connector that you’ll need, it’s the male side that you need to fit the bridge to, so you’ll need the seals and pins for that connector plus some thin wall I think I used 1.5mm2 black thinwall. The female side I sealed the rear entries up, and simply plug onto the clutch switch left in situ just to keep it clean and dry. (You can use seal blanks instead if you want, I just used black silicone as it was only a basic thing for protection). Removal is just a case of pressing down the little metal bar, that’s all that is needed. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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21st Jun 2021 8:35pm |
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| Ijk10 Member Since: 01 Apr 2021 Location: Newport Posts: 37
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Thanks buddy...have you got a link where to buy them? I'm crap at this stuff and always buy the wrong thing🙈
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22nd Jun 2021 1:01pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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Items are on that link above. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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22nd Jun 2021 10:46pm |
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