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Markh



Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Grantham
Posts: 33

England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
The basics of wading
Read alot about wading in a defender, seen clips but it's something I've never done.

Things I've read talk about wading plugs, breathers etc. I'd never want to do anything extreme but I'd like to know what can the puma do straight from the factory? What should I look out for? If I wanted to do more what would I have to do?

Any advice on what to some I'm sure are basic questions would be appreciated

Mark "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the things you did..."
Post #89839 18th Sep 2011 6:25pm
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stevie d



Member Since: 09 Nov 2009
Location: Bishops Stortford
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Alpine White
Stick to what LR say probably 500mm.

If you want to go over that it gets complex, breathers, snorkels, electric protection etc etc.

There is plenty of information on line - probably not so much for Pumas as owners probably don't push them to the limit!! (but the principle is similar)

Steve Thumbs Up Defender 90 TD5 Station Wagon
Discovery 3 HSE
BMW 330i Coupe
Post #89854 18th Sep 2011 7:07pm
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Markh



Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Grantham
Posts: 33

England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks for that Steve,

Take it then if you stick to 500mm then plugs / breathers etc are not needed? "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the things you did..."
Post #89857 18th Sep 2011 7:17pm
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stevie d



Member Since: 09 Nov 2009
Location: Bishops Stortford
Posts: 342

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Alpine White
You will be quite safe if wading up to the door cills.

If pushing a bow wave probably ok up to top of front wheels, but don't forget water will come in the doors, flooding the floor.

A snorkel allows the vehicle to go deeper and stops water getting into the engine. Extending the factory fit breathers stops water getting into the diffs in particular but also both gearboxes.

The TD5 has a wading plug in the clutch bellhousing, which is generally left in, not sure about the Puma.

On the TD5 the front diff/axle and both Gboxes have breathers going to the engine bay. The rear diff/axle goes up inside the rear wheel arch - this can be extended to engine bay if required. All breathers can then be extended higher again if required, normally up a snorkel. Again need to check Puma differences.

If you are regularly going into water it would be prudent to action the above - but it doesn't really make it safe to go much deeper than recommended its more insurance and vehicle protection.

If you get water into the engine, its goodbye engine, not a major problem if driving a 200tdi/300tdi but probably a tad more expensive to replace a Puma engine or TD5 for that matter.

In newer vehicles wading in deep water is a risky and potentially very expensive business if it goes wrong. You have also got the CPU to worry about - under the drivers seat in TD5, Puma?

Even if you have got all the kit in place you have got to be confident its all sealed properly and will do its job!!

Wading can be excillerating at first but after a while self preservation takes over if in newer vehicles. I know of several people that have blown engines by wading too deep. Try googling Hydrostatic Shock.

I hope this helps.

Steve Thumbs Up Defender 90 TD5 Station Wagon
Discovery 3 HSE
BMW 330i Coupe
Post #89898 18th Sep 2011 10:00pm
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AndrewS



Member Since: 10 Apr 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3707

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 SW Rimini Red
They can go deeper as long as you can keep going


Click image to enlarge
 130's have feeling's as well you know Smile
Post #89900 18th Sep 2011 10:13pm
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Yep - much deeper - even without a RAI.

Just clench and keep going Shocked


Click image to enlarge
 John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #89904 18th Sep 2011 11:03pm
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cradgebank



Member Since: 30 Dec 2008
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 308

England 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
My advice is, if you do not have to, then don't even think of doing it.

The weekend warrior offroad brigade seem to think its very cool to drive through 3' of mud and water to prove their driving ability and vehicle capability right up to the point of ceasing up their engine.

One road into my village gets cut off for half the winter with flooding, I have to drive through this flooding to access some of my land and I really do not like doing it.

If you want to play in water then get a boat.

If its really essential to wade, then you will be fine up to Sill depth, above that, expect the cab to flood and ruin your carpets etc. Richard

Either a 90, 110 or 130.
Discovery 5
Post #89909 19th Sep 2011 12:35am
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dilukabey



Member Since: 17 May 2011
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 173

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
Wading
Always make sure to switch off the air con before wading as this will save the air con cooling fan.

Makesure the viscous fan is not locked, otherwise it will ruin your viscous fan + damage the radiator (Once happened to me when my 300tdi was locked) Crying or Very sad

When wading, drive slowly as possible so it will prevent tsunami like waves come and hit the bonnete. Very Happy
Post #89913 19th Sep 2011 3:10am
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Re: Wading
dilukabey wrote:
When wading, drive slowly as possible so it will prevent tsunami like waves come and hit the bonnete. Very Happy


Just to qualify that;

You need to drive fast enough to create a bow wave and keep forward momentum. John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #89940 19th Sep 2011 8:34am
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farmer giles



Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: worcestershire
Posts: 1299

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
the other thing to remember that if you are traversing moving water and you go too deep it will carry your 2 tonne vehicle downstream! (i have seen pictures of Camel trophy vehicle deliberately flooded with upstream and downstream doors open to get over this hazzard)

if in doubt - water depth, ground condition/obstactles beneath the water - then unless it is a genuine blues and twos emergency - don't risk it
Post #89957 19th Sep 2011 10:15am
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KarlB



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 91

Australia 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
The recommended maximum wading depth for a Puma is 500 mm which is close to the sills. At 600 mm you have water on the floor in the front of the vehicle. At 750 mm you have water entering the back. At 900 mm you reach the bottom of the air intake, but at this depth your sensitive electronics and battery are under the water. From the external air intake, the ducting rises within the engine compartment with the bottom of the ducting (at its highest point) being close to 1000 mm. We are talking some seriously deep water here. The Defender is not a boat. You MAY be able to get through such depths for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you clearly should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, a raised air intake is not a snorkel as some would like to foolishly consider them. However they are useful to keep splashing and small waves, etc. from getting into the air intake. If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet. You can change gear, etc. At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation. This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing. You also need to be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than the recommended maximum you may find that you are not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

There are a few simple rules:
1. Always walk the crossing first to check depth, currents, obstacles, etc
2. Is there a shallower alternative crossing?
3. If in any doubt: don't do it (much better to get home feeling a bit of a coward than to not get home at all)
4. Plan your recovery before you enter into the water (what are the consequences when you do get stuck?)
5. Prepare your vehicle and contents (wading sheet, vulnerable valuables raised, etc).
6. Select an appropriate gear (you do not want to change gear mid crossing)
7. Proceed cautiously but with determination (this is how you should tackle every serious obstacle)
8. After the crossing, dry your brakes and check your vehicle for water ingress.

Cheers
KarlB
Post #89965 19th Sep 2011 10:56am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
^^^ Wise advice ^^
[Was in the middle of posting a lengthy response along similar lines when the damned laptop rebooted itself Rolling Eyes ].

In short don't do it unless you know what you are doing and are 100% sure that you have assessed the risks and have made yourself familiar with what is lurking under the surface. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #89966 19th Sep 2011 11:08am
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wslr



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Wellington, Somerset
Posts: 581

United Kingdom 
KarlB wrote:
At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation. This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing.


Reminds me of a crossing I did just north of Diani beach. Could have quite easily been swept out into the Indian Ocean... Embarassed
Post #89969 19th Sep 2011 12:15pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
cradgebank wrote:
My advice is, if you do not have to, then don't even think of doing it.

The weekend warrior offroad brigade seem to think its very cool to drive through 3' of mud and water to prove their driving ability and vehicle capability right up to the point of ceasing up their engine.

One road into my village gets cut off for half the winter with flooding, I have to drive through this flooding to access some of my land and I really do not like doing it.

If you want to play in water then get a boat.

If its really essential to wade, then you will be fine up to Sill depth, above that, expect the cab to flood and ruin your carpets etc.


I agree with all that.
Post #89975 19th Sep 2011 12:44pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2637

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Post #90009 19th Sep 2011 3:56pm
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