 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Overheating in 6th gear going uphill (SOLVED) |
 
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327  
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UPDATE
Changed the VCV - Road test it certainly sounded better but no change with the up hill temp issue Changed CHT - Road test no change Changed radiator and thermostat - Road test no change Changed water pump couple of weeks ago and it wasn't that. I sure I noticed what sounded like a misfire in 6th and a little hessitation like putting your foot down and not getting the response you were expecting. Could a fuel delivery issue cause the coolant temp to go up? This issue always happens up hill so I'm thinking the tank is at the back... My fuel filter was new this year and is a LR one so don't think its that. Could it be fuel pump? Temp always goes down when going down hill. On flat ground I haven't noticed an issue. On start up I get a puff of white smoke but it goes away after about 5 seconds. Any thoughts on those? |
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13th Dec 2020 2:26pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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White smoke on start up could be unburnt diesel. Possibly a glow plug issue? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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13th Dec 2020 2:31pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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Here's a video of cold start up after standing for a couple of days.
https://streamable.com/mxsw5a Also, I checked the coolant and the bottle was empty! However when I undid the cap it filled back up to the cold line! So whats the story with that!? |
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13th Dec 2020 3:30pm |
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| Jerry Member Since: 13 Nov 2015 Location: Cardiff Posts: 196 
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I am no expert....
but our old 130,000 mile volvo had exactly this problem of smoke and coolant (levels dropping then rising when you opened the cap). Apparently it was a failed head gasket which we did not notice the symptoms until it was far too late and destroyed the bottom part of the engine. The first symptom we ignored was failed heating inside the car (we just thought the heater matrix had died) and then it started using 0.5litre of oil per 1000 miles. I was going through a divorce so just left it at that time as had so much else to contend with, but after half a year of being driven like this, the occassional white smoke suddenly became continuous and it just drank water. We ended up damaging the bottom part of the engine doing this. In my defence, the engine temperature guage never moved off normal until its final few days.... according to the volvo tech that's because its measuring the wrong part of the engine.... as I said, i am no expert. but thought I would share that in case it helps! |
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14th Dec 2020 12:09pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57  
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Probably an air pocket somewhere in the system. I know you have a remap model as i have. I am considering to get it back to original software, since my problem started aftere the remap. I am sick and tired of trying to fix this issue, as i just wanna take the Lady for a drive, instead of using endles hours in the garage ! Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci |
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16th Dec 2020 7:23am |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78  
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I finally got my engine started today after head gasket replacement. I spent hours bleeding the fuel only to find out I had a faulty crankshaft starter (new Britpart one) put the old one back and it started on 2cd try.
I will do a good test run over Christmas and update if I still have the over heating problem. |
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23rd Dec 2020 5:50pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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Thanks Kevlar.
I'm looking at the oil cooler now so that might be next on the list before the engine starts coming apart. |
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23rd Dec 2020 6:24pm |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78
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Mine is running good now, Max temperature I recorded was 92 and I have been driving pretty hard up hills.
Since the rebuild I also notice I don't have residual pressure in the cooling system. When engine is cold and I open the coolant expansion tank I no longer hear the Shhhhhh of pressure escaping. So it seems my issue was definitely the head gasket which was pressurising the coolant and obviously impairing the coolant flow. Replacing the head gasket was a big job for me and pretty expensive, so be sure to eliminate any other potential causes before ripping the engine to pieces. Kev |
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6th Jan 2021 2:19pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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Thanks for the update.
Looks like I might be heading down that road then. We’re you losing any coolant at all or did you have did you do a RELD test that came back positive? |
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6th Jan 2021 4:52pm |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78
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I wasn’t losing coolant. RELD test was positive.
It was worth doing because engine was a mess inside and air intake was totally coked up and 2 injectors were blocked. I spent time and super cleaned every part. Now it’s running nice |
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6th Jan 2021 7:14pm |
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| Simon Audi Member Since: 19 Nov 2020 Location: Newport Posts: 544
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How are you verifying the temperature rise?
Just Gauge - or a secondary gauge too? 35 years ago - I had a similar issue on a 1256 Vauxhall Viva Gauge would rise - in red - no other issues Changed Head Gasket / Water Pump / Radiator etc.. Drove with windows open and heater on... Issue was a faulty voltage regulator controlling the gauge..... So suggest you verify actual coolant temp with a secondary meter and thermocouple before going too much further... |
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6th Jan 2021 7:16pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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I have a nanocom showing live temp.
My top radiator hose is also pressurised and the system stays pressurised for days. I ran mine up to temp, slowly released the pressure from the cap and then retightened. On idle I could feel the pressure building after 5 mins. |
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6th Jan 2021 7:29pm |
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| Simon Audi Member Since: 19 Nov 2020 Location: Newport Posts: 544
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The system should have pressure - that is how water can operate above 100'C - you need pressure.
Unless the expansion cap is blowing - then pressure is not a bad thing. Does sound like you may have an airlock somewhere - effecting your heater... |
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6th Jan 2021 7:37pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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When it goes above 115c the cap vents and cuts the fuel off for about 10 seconds. Then the temp drops back down and all is fine until you accelerate hard again. This didn't happen during the first two years of ownership so I know something is wrong somewhere.
I know its a pressurised system but I don't ever remember having so much pressure in the past. I've bled the system a few times and followed the LR recommendations for refilling. |
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6th Jan 2021 7:47pm |
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