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| davidblythe Member Since: 27 Apr 2019 Location: Cheam, Surrey Posts: 110  
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Diff is out , and is knackered,
can anyone explain what has happened bits that are loose were lying at the bottom of the housing also how do i identify what i need to replace this, it is front diff of a 10p td5 90 how do i identify a 2 pin 24 spline diff guess am asking what are my options  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1999 90 TD5 CSW 2006 110 TD5 HD Commercial |
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22nd Nov 2020 11:22am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1400  
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Hi, to explain briefly what has happened,
The cross pin has snapped under extreme load. (2 pieces bottom picture) The gears on the cross pin then move and mash up the teeth on all 4 small gear wheels in the centre of the diff. Finally the cross pin, now in 2 pieces, and the 2 gears on it, are spat out of the diff because it is/was rotating at speed and drop into the bottom of the axle case. - this may be as a result of continuing to drive it after the pin snapped. The number of splines can be counted on the 2 gears still in the diff. It's the same as the number of splines on the half-shaft that fits in there. Unless you're practiced in building up diffs, the best option is to buy a working one that is a direct fit. Same gear ratio, same number of splines and 'nose length' of the casting. |
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22nd Nov 2020 12:11pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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common problem
lots of threads on here about it you are best to replace with a cross pin diff with 4 planet gears or an ATB DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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22nd Nov 2020 12:27pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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The crown wheel and pinion seem to be OK, based on the photos - there don't seem to be any chipped teeth (and you didn't mention any loud bangs).
In that case you're quite lucky and rebuild is relatively simple. The only fiddly thing is setting the backlash with a micrometer, but it's no rocket science. You'll also need a torque wrench and a way to properly hold the diff housing e.g. a large vice on a sturdy bench. You can order a 4 pin center or ATB at Ashcroft with new bearings pressed on. You have to transplant the crown wheel. I have used Allen bolts with Nordlock washers, since the original crown wheel bolts tend to eat into the diff carrier and subsequently loosen and break, as mentioned above. (Although nordlocks have teeth too). Degrease the threads and use loctite 270. There's the state of the pinion bearings of course. If you undo the flange, the pinion and the bearings come out. If they are damaged or pitted, then you'll need to replace them and possibly reshim the pinion, which makes it more complicated. The biggest frustration during my rebuild was getting proper shims. I had several genuine ones where the thickness didn't correspond with the part number. To undo the flange, you'll need a holding tool which you can make using two parts of flat steel. Good luck. Antares Treadwell, a MY06 110 Td5 in Chawton White |
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22nd Nov 2020 1:15pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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It looks to me that there was wear in the diff for a while. The teeth on the gears are sharp. It looks like that the holes for the pin are not really round anymore. This will cause the gears not to connect to each other at the best way with higher forces as a result.
As mentioned check your crown wheel and pininon. Check the bearings and by a ATB or similar. Put that diff in the rear axle and check the diff out off the rear axle.  If OK it can go to the front axle if not see above.
I am sure that is a 24 spline diff. AFAIK all 90 td5's have 24 spline diffs. A 10 spline diff has blocks not the fine splines as you see in your pictures. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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22nd Nov 2020 6:12pm |
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