 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Overheating in 6th gear going uphill (SOLVED) |
 
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327  
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UPDATE
Heating valve changed. It did make a difference, however hasn’t completely solved it. After changing and topping up the coolant I did a drive which took about an hour and included motorways. I drove with the temp on cold. Generally the temp stayed within the working limit 87-105c. Pulling off at lights generally saw the temp go down. Hard acceleration the temp would start to go up before settling back down. I drove in 6th up hill at 50mph in a place I know where I have had the fuel cut off before and it was fine holding temp at mid 90’s. All was looking good until I really pushed it hard through all gears going from 30 to motorway speed. I had the same issue happen - the temp climbed and fuel cut off for a few seconds. Now the caveat to that is that I don’t normally drive this car as hard as that but for testing I wanted to see how it was. Throughout the rest of the drive, while I drove it a little harder than I would normally, it behaved absolutely normal. I’ll check the coolant level today as it would have released some from the cap and I’ll test it out doing a longer motorway drive when I have a work-related trip. Overall changing the valve has made a big difference. I’ll have a look through the nanocom in case I need to reset something but at the moment I feel like I’m close to solving this problem. One thing I’m curious about - how long should pressure be stored the coolant system for? If I take my cap off 24 hours after my last drive, I still get a big hiss. I don’t remember that happening before but then I have been checking more in the leat few months! |
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14th Nov 2020 10:32am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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I can take the cap off several days after using the vehicle and still get the hiss, all that tell me is that the system isn't leaking under pressure and it is, I feel, a very good sign.
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14th Nov 2020 11:50am |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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That’s good news then!
I’m now looking at changing the water pump. Apparently the spline wears and doesn’t drive it properly. Usually works fine on the flats and you’d only notice a difference going uphill! |
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14th Nov 2020 11:58am |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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All parts ordered from Paddocks so should arrive this week.
Thanks Blackwolf for the info on O rings and gaskets required. I’ve gone for the pump and connector assembly which I think is Britpart. Think I might need to get some ramps or axel stands for this one. Also does anyone know if I’d need to remove my steering guard? |
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16th Nov 2020 7:45am |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78  
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Hey Greyman, if you are only changing the coolant pump, you wont need ramps or stands.
The pump can be removed from above access. |
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16th Nov 2020 2:41pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
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You may find that it helps if you stand on the ramps or axle stands - it makes it easier to reach down into the engine bay to get to the water pump!
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16th Nov 2020 6:17pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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I noticed 
I bought the Haynes Online just to get an idea so I'm ready to go! |
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16th Nov 2020 6:25pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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So I made a start on replacing the water pump. This is the first time I have ever done something to an engine so its been an interesting learning curve!
Sooooo....brake vacuum pump....I was screwing the brass screw back on and I thought it was catching on something inside. I put my finger in and could feel something but when I took it out, whatever it was popped out and who knows where its gone now! Anyone happen to know what it was and if I can get another one? And was there an o ring for this? if there was, thats gone too!  |
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22nd Nov 2020 5:36am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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These diagrams may help https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...-actuation
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22nd Nov 2020 9:51am |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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Thanks for that.
Crawling around the floor in daylight, I found a tiny spring so removed the vacuum pump, refitted and put everything back. Will do a proper test tomorrow so fingers crossed! |
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22nd Nov 2020 7:03pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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So wasn’t the water pump!
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23rd Nov 2020 11:20am |
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| Defenderdredd Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: South Hams Posts: 10  
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Hi Greyman110.
Ive had the same problem over the life of my 2.4 puma, like yours mapped but I also have cruise control and it only seems to happen when towing heavy loads uphill. I have learned that uphill, whilst the engine is willing, the temp suddenly shoots up and cuts power, not ideal when you have a big trailer or large boat on the back! To combat this I take the car out of cruise and drop into 5th or 4th (steepness dependant) open the windows, turn off the aircon and put the heater on full! often this is enough to prevent the problem but not always! Really would love to find a cure? My 2.2 model is absolutely fine as is my Brothers 2.4. Whilst I cant contribute a solution, I do understand the frustration and also thought about changing the rad for an Ali Sport aftermarket radiator to improve the cooling to see if that is the fix. Ive read that holding 6th with a chipped engine puts it under significant load therefore extra heat is generated and dropping a gear reduces that load. Eessentially 6th is an overdrive gear but regret to inform that mine happens in 5th and 4th if a big hill such as telegraph hill off the M5 Will continue to follow your thread with interest, thank you for raising the issue. |
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25th Nov 2020 6:46pm |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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So today I did an 80 mile round trip.
Motorway driving at a steady 56mph at around 1900rpm in 6th gear. The temp on average was around 105c. Had the heat on full and I noticed the following: As the temp went up and down, it had no impact on the heat. What did seem to have an impact were hills - Going down hill the heat would get really hot and the temp would drop. Going up hill and the heat would go cold and the temp would rise. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this to happen? It certainly does feel like something is off with the circulation!? On level ground the heat felt about right although I did notice it was blowing cold when I got home which was on level ground. The temp had also dropped to 92c. When I came off the motorway and stopped, the temp immediately dropped from 105c to mid 90's in about a minute. I don't think it's the CHT sensor as I read somewhere that when this goes wrong you should start to see fault codes coming up. I'm not convinced its the thermostat as I've seen large fluctuations in the temp at different times. Radiator i'm not too sure about. I can feel its hot at the top pipe and cold at the bottom pipe but I am considering changing both this and the thermostat. |
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29th Nov 2020 12:18am |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78
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This is down to your coolant not filling the heater matrix. If the coolant level is low or you you air in the system then you get inconsistent cabin heat. Try bleeding the coolant again.
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29th Nov 2020 7:15am |
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