 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma cuts of in 6th gear uphill ! |
 
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 539   
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Could possibly be the CHT sensor giving the wrong readings, fooling the ECU into thinking the engine is overheating (while actually, it is not) maybe? “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
-- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" |
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13th Nov 2020 1:35pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57  
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Well, i understand you way of thinking and it right that it came as a standard from JLR. I was talking to Land Rover Denmark yesterday as i placed an order there. I talked to a engineer that has a 208 PUMA as me. It has around 400.000 on the clock, thats a little more than i have (356.000) and he said that when it came from the factory, it was new. Now it has its issues as things tear and torn. He had the same issue as i did. He changed the radiator, heat control valve and the thermostat, but still had the issue. He is on forums as we are and read the same about putting a spacer and a new thermostat, and the issue was gone. So his opinion was that all theese things we change put together maybe makes the difference and the issue goes away. My fan spacer and thermostat comes next week. When i have changed it i will take it for a drive and let yoy guys know if it has mande a difference.. Have a nice weekend, cheers Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci |
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13th Nov 2020 1:47pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57
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Thx... Ill look in to that as well LOL, this lady keeps me busy !! Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci |
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13th Nov 2020 4:03pm |
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| pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500  
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The issue is the thermostat location being in the head it often opens to late to allow the coolant to move hence then going into limp mode until it cools
Landrover on the later 2.2 fitted a spacer on the fan as standard and I believe the lower temp thermostat A good flush of the coolant system also helps if quite old coolant. If it still continues to cause issues then there’s a good chance you have a head gasket gone or going 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid) 2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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13th Nov 2020 4:18pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57
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Oh my god... I just got a new head gasket in 2019 so i f..... dont hope i need a new one already !!! Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci |
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14th Nov 2020 3:58pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57
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Is there a way one can check if the water pump spline is worn ? With all the things i need to change, i could buy a new one for the same money  Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci |
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14th Nov 2020 3:59pm |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78  
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I contemplated changing the pump when I changed the fan and thermostat.
As it was fine in all other gears I didn't change it. But this makes some sense, if its worn then it cant maintain the temp under full engine load. Greyman, please can you update us once you change it ? I see there are many after market pumps, which make are you going for ? It will be great if this fixes the problem. Kev |
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14th Nov 2020 5:35pm |
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| pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500
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I changed my pump a few years ago and had this problem since the thermostat and spacer sorted it👍 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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14th Nov 2020 6:14pm |
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| Alex von Staffeldt Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 57
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So youre telling me that the thermostat and spacer might fix the problem, if it dosent i should change my pump ? Defender 110 Puma 2.4 tdci
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15th Nov 2020 6:04am |
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| pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500
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Go for the cheapest options first, then work forward from there
I only changed my pump as the plastics pipes on the back were cracked pump was actually fine 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid) 2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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15th Nov 2020 10:06am |
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| Greyman110 Member Since: 29 Sep 2017 Location: London Posts: 327
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I'd agree with pj2106.
I've been down the road of replacing lots of things trying to fix this and it hasn't worked. I'm not the most mechanically-minded person but I decided to try and troubelshoot this myself otherwise I would just keep throwing money at it for nothing. I cleaned everything and look for any signs something might be wrong. There are a lot posts where this issue has been caused by the head gasket but if you have a new one it's less likely to be that. My system holds pressure so I now know thats ok so my deduction is that it must be something to do with the circulation. I asked more questions and then someone mentioned the water pump splines and their experience with it so I think thats worth a shot. I've seen people say this is normal and adjust your driving style but I don't believe that. I never had this problem before - it came out of nowhere one day and slowly got so frequent that I could predicte when it would happen. Thats another indication that its possible something was slowly wearing out. I replaced the heater control valve mainly because it had a leak on it and there was a chance it could have been the issue. It wasn't but it did make the temps slightly better. I love my defender so on the plus side I'm leaning more about it. The more I can do the better. I've been looking for a video on how to change the water pump as I'd give that a go but can't find anything so I might have to run it somewhere for that. |
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15th Nov 2020 10:27am |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78
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You can change the water pump yourself, its not too complex job. There is not much room to get you hands and spanners in but its possible.
Get the Haynes manual, its well worth the money, If you don't have it then I will scan the relevant pages for you to do the water pump. Let me know Kev |
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15th Nov 2020 10:39am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782 
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I replaced mine earlier in the year and there were no difficulties or issues at all with its replacement - the only thing I found is there is a blank rubber cap on a redundant hose connection that wasn't supplied with the kit (all the other gaskets and seals were) and mine had started to perish. To get up and running again I bodged it with silicone and a new clip whilst I got a replacement.
The genuine cap is almost as expensive as the pump! I bought a silicone version off Ebay which now resides on the dashboard as a reminder to fit it..... HTH Keith |
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15th Nov 2020 10:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382 
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As Kevlar says the water pump is easy to replace. The genuine WSM is freely available online and is a better option than anything Haynes produces nowadays. I have become very disappointed with the way that Haynes says that just about every job harder than opening the doors is difficult, needs special tools, and should be left to a professional. Sadly I am old enough to remember when a Haynes manual really did cover everything including rebuilding gearboxes and diffs (and was printed on paper that hadn't already been recycles seven times). |
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15th Nov 2020 12:03pm |
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