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Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Puma engine oil sump pan

I need to replace my the sump pan on my 2.4 it’s gone rusty on the bottom, I treated it a few years ago but it’s come back through again and I don’t trust how solid it is anymore. I’m going to properly paint the new one before it goes on. Part number is LR007598 I think. Have a few question.

1) Am I right is thinking it is sealed with silicone gasket rather than a rubber one?

2) What’s the best way to break the seal and get the old one off?

3) I was thinking of buying Bearmach or Britpart because of the price difference to genuine LR one. Is this a bad idea?

4) I read that the design of the sump changed at some point to improve clearance to the front axle. Do the aftermarket ones reflect this change? How do I know I’m getting the right version? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

17th Oct 2020 9:29am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17391

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

1) Yes.

2) With one of these, or something similar: https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5026

3) Probably, but bearing in mind that the genuine ones are not great perhaps not as bad an idea as at fist it might appear.

4) The very early 2.4s had a sump which would get walloped and ruptured by the front propshaft on full axle deflection. I can't remember when the sump changed, but I think it was about 2009 and I would be astounded if the aftermarket ones were the original defective design. Make sure you get a Landrover sump not a Transit sump, of course.

17th Oct 2020 4:56pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

I chose a genuine one for mine, I didn’t do it myself but it’s been fine since and the last one lasted ten years.
It began to leak from the seal on mine. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

17th Oct 2020 5:21pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

Cheers chaps, most helpful. Not seen one of those little gadgets for separating the gasket before

2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

17th Oct 2020 6:46pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

Is there anything else I need for this job, apart from liquid gasket? I assume the bolts can be re-used. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

18th Oct 2020 9:08am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

I had the fixings replaced, but I don’t doubt you can re-use them.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

18th Oct 2020 10:58am

Iktank

Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 237

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

My 2.2 puma pan rusted through so I bought a Bearmach one was identical in every way to the original. Used wrecking par to leaver old one off - liquid gasket.
Don't waste your money on an original part for this

18th Oct 2020 5:36pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

Thanks, that’s good to know. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

18th Oct 2020 5:47pm

Vitesse

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Sussex
Posts: 381

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

I had to change my sump pan that had rusted. (2015 Puma!). Anyway, it was a pig of a job. I didnt have the special tool and couldnt easily find a pry space that was not going to damage the engine block.
In the end I put holes in the sump and pulled the pan with webbing while gently trying to prise in one corner that didnt damage the block. it took me two hours!

I used a genuine LR pan. about £120.00 including the special sealant. Good luck!

2015 90 XS Santorini Black

19th Oct 2020 9:48am

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

Thanks Vitesse, I'm definitely going to get the separator, it's only cheap, to make the job easier. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

19th Oct 2020 11:37am

Iktank

Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 237

I just stuffed pry bar into the back lip of the pan and used the ARB (if I remeber right) as a lever point and gave the bar a good hard pull

4year old sump pan with very nearly a hole - very bad damp spot. one I had the old pan on the flor pushed the damp spot with a screw driver (lightly) and it went through

19th Oct 2020 5:22pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8033

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Late 09 the sump pan design changed. 8 had a 59 plate that arrived with the original style pan that I had changed by lr. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

19th Oct 2020 6:48pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

Just a bit of an update on this. Bearmach seemingly offer both the original design and the notched sump so you need to be careful still. The original being £10 cheaper. The notched sump has A suffix on the part number 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

30th Oct 2020 2:09pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

I’m going to swap today. Any opinion on how long I need to leave it before I refill with oil afterwards? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

22nd Nov 2020 12:04pm

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