 | Home > In Car Electronics > 2.2 Puma no start |
 
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| Low Boxer Member Since: 10 Oct 2020 Location: Vermont Posts: 9   
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I have some guests from Chile with a 2015 2.2 Puma with a faulty ignition switch that was getting more difficult to turn with the key. It finally quit in my yard. The key turned fine but nothing happened. so I assumed the switch broke internally. After replacing with a new Genuine ignition assembly the key again turns fine but the vehicle will still not start. When turning to the start position no dash lights illuminate and nothing happens in start position. The two small red alarm lights sometime illuminate solid and sometimes do not illuminate at all and do not flash. It has an immobilizer with no alarm, no remote locking. Just a simple fob that needs to be in proximity to the ignition. I have 13 volts at the battery, side lamps and safety flashers function but nothing related to the ignition does. I replaced the battery in the fob, checked fuses under the column and in the seat box, still nothing. I am thinking it might be the mobilizer has failed and maybe this fault is not related to replacing the ignition switch?. I am not familiar with Puma immobilizer systems and appreciate any advice as to what else to try. Thanks.
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11th Oct 2020 12:03am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997 
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When replacing the ignition switch did you disconnect the main battery ? If you did , did you follow the procedure to turn ignition switch to position 2 then back and remove key , then disconnect battery negative terminal within 15 seconds ? This stops the alarm going off if you have one, but may also impact the immobiliser .
Also have you tried synchronising the fob. From outside vehicle with doors closed pressing the fob locking button 4 to eight times quickly. This will make the indicators flash once to confirm resynchronisation,, wait a second then press the unlock button once. Get back in vehicle and try starting with Fob in close proximity to key When you change the fob battery the procedure to follow is to sit in vehicle With doors closed. Have fob close to key in ignition. Turn key to ignition 2 position then back and remove key. You now have 5 mins to replace battery if you don’t open door. So remove battery. Hold down one of the buttons to drain remaining power in fob. Replace battery. Close fob. Open door. From outside truck resynchronise fob by pressing lock button at least 4 times quickly and the indicators will flash. Then press unlock button and all should be ok to start truck with key and fob on same key ring. If you did not follow this procedure you could have lost sync between fob and alarm module. If that does not work it may be that the fob needs to be reregistered with the 10as alarm unit. This can be done with a nanocom or equivalent. If they have there emergency key access (EKA) code that would help as well. In essence if you don’t have blown fuses and the wiring is ok it may be that the 10as alarm module has lost sync with the fob and the engine is immobilised until the fob is resynchronised or re registered. After all that I’m wondering if they have the newer fob with integrated key, or a different fob as they don’t have alarm or central locking. The above is about the two button fob that is separate from the key plus the 10as alarm unit. |
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11th Oct 2020 11:11am |
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| Low Boxer Member Since: 10 Oct 2020 Location: Vermont Posts: 9
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Really appreciate your replies. I ruled out a blown fuse. I did not disconnect the battery when I changed the ignition switch and I did not change the fob battery inside the vehicle. As soon as it warms up I'm going back out to follow your sync procedure.
I noticed yesterday when I was pressing the unlock button the flashers would come on. Thanks for the boost I'll report back as soon as I've solved it. |
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11th Oct 2020 12:06pm |
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| Low Boxer Member Since: 10 Oct 2020 Location: Vermont Posts: 9
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Quick up date while I thaw out my hands. I followed your instructions, synced the fob to the ignition which all seems to be functioning now. If I press lock on the fob the horn will go off when I leave one of the doors open so I think it is working. The ignition is still dead, no dash lights and there is no power at the 60 amp fuse in the seat box (has a Key symbol) I assume that fuse block must be fed from the starter solenoid? Or does the immobilizer feed that fuse? I can't even see the starter. Fortunately despite the strong north wind its bright and sunny out so I should be able to test the solenoid once I warm up again. Sure wish I had a wiring diagram. Owners manual is helpless, its all in Spanish. At least its a nice clean truck to work on.
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11th Oct 2020 2:30pm |
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| Low Boxer Member Since: 10 Oct 2020 Location: Vermont Posts: 9
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Its a two button fob with no key attached.
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11th Oct 2020 2:33pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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If you have no dash lights when you turn the key then you have a fuse or wiring issue - not an immobiliser problem.
The factory fit immobiliser will not and does not cut the whole ignition. So you either have no Battery supply to or Output from the ignition switch. Check you have connected the ignition switch correctly, I will find and post the correct layout shortly.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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11th Oct 2020 2:57pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605
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Double check this! 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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11th Oct 2020 2:59pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605
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Check for power on BOTH sides of the FL1 60A fuse.
This is a fuse in a permanent battery feed to the ignition switch so it should be “hot” on both sides at all times. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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11th Oct 2020 3:51pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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Martin is correct as ever
And if for future ref you need a full workshop manual in English.. then follow this link posted by dgardel on here. https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnHBx4Wc2MJLtxvK7zpu3OJd4yZI This has wiring diagrams as well. |
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11th Oct 2020 5:10pm |
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| Low Boxer Member Since: 10 Oct 2020 Location: Vermont Posts: 9
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Thank you Martin, You called it. I took the dash back apart and there staring at me was the disconnected white wire. I must have knocked it off wiggling the ignition switch back into place. Over 40 years working on Land Rovers and I still make the dumbest mistakes. Really appreciate the support you guys are amazing. Thanks again.
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11th Oct 2020 7:30pm |
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