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rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2230

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green

Paint Recommendations for New Galvanised Chassis

Morning All,

About to purchase a new galv chassis for my pending rebuild. As i am not a fan of the bare galv chassis look, I would like to paint it satin black.

Looking for recommendations for paints please. I have some Mordent Solution already so was planning on a red oxide prime and satin black top coat.

I will probably also use Dinitrol cavity wax internally for good measure.

I was planning on using the Buzzweld Galv-in-One paint but after very poor experience with their RCP and CIO on another chassis I am slightly put off using their products.

Cheers,
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

26th Aug 2020 9:23am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

I think I'd go for an etch primer rather that red oxide and POR-15 makes a good chassis paint.

For the obviously visible rear crossmember, I've found that a few spray coats of a decent satin black finished with a clear lacquer gives a nice result. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

26th Aug 2020 9:43am

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2230

Cheers, POR15 was on my list but I believe it is only available as a gloss finish?

I was also looking at Coroless paints but seem to be aimed more at overpainting corrosion 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

26th Aug 2020 9:50am

trailbear

Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 405

You could look at Bill Hambet, I have used a lot of their products over the years with good results.
I am about to paint the chassis on my 110 and intend on using their paint this time around.

I too have used paint systems that others on the Forum seem to favour which make all sorts of claims and have never really had any better results than good old fashioned hammerite. I have found that when seeking advice from the suppliers / makers of the paint, the favoured reply is:
“ well you have a obviously not followed the correct procedure “
I apparently need more practice on the correct usage of the paintbrush. 🤔

I personally don’t like the idea of covering something in sticky wax that covers everything and you have no idea what’s going on underneath until it’s too late. At least with paint, problems can be seen and addressed very easily. I do however use wax for the inside of the chassis only because I can’t get in to paint it.

This of course is only based on my personal experience and I have no doubt that others may have different experiences or opinions.

26th Aug 2020 10:50am

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1080

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

While you're at it have a look at what this couple did to their new galvd frame

https://youtu.be/DyBbXmVFZUo?t=151

26th Aug 2020 11:07am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2017

From what I’ve read buzzweld use a modified corroless paint.
If interested in neat corroless then the best option after etching the galvanised chassis is their S primer followed by their RF16 topcoat. They also do an etch primer for galvanised metal. https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/paints/automoti...t-products
Worth giving them a call and they can advise.

I’ve used corroless chassis in one on another vehicles sills and it worked well.

Some more alternatives are available from frosts. They have Eastwood, frost and por15. Again worth giving them a call to get their views. [url]https://www.frost.co.uk/chassis-paints/[url]

Bilt hamber as stated above have a good range as well. https://www.bilthamber.com/

26th Aug 2020 11:18am

SteveT247

Member Since: 21 Feb 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 491

2002 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

I used Galv in one on my rear X member back in feb, no complaints so far. I can't remember if I T washed it (they say you don't need to but can't see it doing any harm if you do), or just used degreaser prior to painting.

Click image to enlarge

26th Aug 2020 11:29am

Shroppy

Member Since: 25 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 866

1986 Defender 130 V8 Petrol HCPU Aintree Green

Have a look at my 127 thread for a rundown of the paint I used, can thoroughly recomend Jotun products. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109"
Series 1 80"

26th Aug 2020 12:36pm

Hufflepuff

Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

I went with the Corroless approach after speaking to Arc-rite. They have a paint which is supposed to be suitable to go directly on galvanized metal, no etch primer needed. However in the few places where I've caught it with a spanner, it seems to have chipped off pretty easily, so the jury is out for me. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW

26th Aug 2020 4:09pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2230

That is interesting as I spoke with Arc-Rite today and they told me that I must use an etch prime first! Then recommended the corroless glass flake chassis paint over that. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

26th Aug 2020 4:18pm

Litch

Member Since: 10 Mar 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 762

Did my new Richards chassis a few months ago, leaving it bare was never an option (I love bare galvanising on a LR but NOT the chassis). Carried out lots of research beforehand and decided on the following process.

Chassis clean and de-grease.
T-Wash.
Arc-Rite Etch Primer, brush for main chassis rails / crossmembers and spray for awkward to reach areas.
Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (Satin), once again brush for main chassis rails and spray for awkward to reach areas and rear crossmember (the most visible spot). As it happens it brushes so smoothly that you can hardly tell the difference between the brushed & sprayed areas.
Black Waxoyl chassis black sprayed over the whole chassis apart from the visible face of the rear crossmember.

Looks great and hasn't shown any signs of falling off just yet!
As above, I will probably use clear Waxoyl internally at some point which is probably overkill but A- I like the product and have been using it for years, B- I have plenty and C- I have the equipment to spray the internal sections.

By the way, before anyone comments about the overspray on the wall let me say that it isn't!

Parking in exactly the same spot for 21-years has left soot marks that don't wash away.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge ONE LIFE, GET IT!

26th Aug 2020 4:43pm

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