 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Brake Fluid |
 
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5107   
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I have always done mine every three years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing) from the atmosphere, it is my belief that brake fluid that has absorbed water not only is not as efficient but can also rot your metal brake lines from within
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11th Jan 2015 1:14pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501  
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I change mine every two years with the major service, I think this is what is in the service schedule for the Td5. Does the Puma have synthetic brake fluid ? Maybe this would not need changing as often. 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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11th Jan 2015 1:22pm |
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| Dave-H Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1507  
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2 years is the recommended time-frame on most vehicles [working for lease companies, i do 2 or 3 every week]
I'm not convinced it needs doing that regular, every 4 years would be fine ... It's only been the last 4 or 5 years that the 2 year change suddenly became the 'norm'  Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant. |
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11th Jan 2015 1:24pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 322 
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The LR service schedule shows a brake fluid change at the 'B' service (24K miles / 2 years), and the recommendation:
"At 48,000 mile intervals or every four years whichever is the earlier, all hydraulic brake caliper fluid seals, flexible brake hoses and brake servo filter should be renewed. All working surfaces of the master cylinder and caliper cylinders should be examined and renewed where necessary." Trivia: DOT4 brake fluid boiling point dry 230°C, wet (3.7% water by volume) 155 °C. DOT 5.1 boiling point dry 260°C, wet 180 °C. TBH in a Defender, unless you are heavily using the brakes, the corrosive effect of any water absorbed by the fluid is the best reason for changing it regularly. |
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11th Jan 2015 2:14pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Not sure how accurate the testers are that you can get as some of them seem very cheap, but it should be a simple test to see if they have absorbed any water before changing. Environmental conditions must be so different that I fail to see how a timed based service interval can apply to all.
I also imagine that the average braking cycle for Defenders is not really going to boil up the fluid in the same way an energetically driven sports car will and so there will be more margin before it becoming an issue. Also, I think you would feel issues through the brake pedal as the fluid deteriorated long before they caused you an issue. How many people get all the seals & hoses changed as per the recommendation?  |
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11th Jan 2015 2:21pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
If you can do it yourself and avoid labour charge the Ł10 for brake fluid every two years is a bit of a no brainer not to change it IMHO
 I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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11th Jan 2015 3:23pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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It's not a cost issue for me - why change something that is working and within spec? Maybe i should be deflating my tyres and changing the air at every service as well?
Who's ever changed out brake parts as recommended rather than adopt a fix on fail approach? |
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11th Jan 2015 4:03pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
imo,failure to change the fluid which then causes corrosion inside could be the reason abs pumps/modulators fail.I'm not risking it again, for the sake of Ł10-Ł20, I'm changing mine every year. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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11th Jan 2015 10:59pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
Is this the latest 'panic' thread and 'income' generator?
I remember VW introduced this 2 year 'change your brake fluid' regime many many years ago. At the time I questioned this new approach and got a smile and a reminder that 'safety' was paramount - it was also another high profit income stream for the workshop. As car servicing evolves - the official dealer's workshops need simple but profitable tasks to help sustain their expensive overheads. |
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11th Jan 2015 11:17pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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If you are having the vehicle B serviced do check with them that the fluid has actually been changed
 Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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12th Jan 2015 10:39pm |
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| Nostromo Member Since: 17 Jul 2015 Location: The Mendip Hills Posts: 73
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Can anyone confirm what is the correct brake fluid (or does it even make any difference what type you use ?) for a 2015 Puma 90XS.
DOT4 and DOT5.1 are mentioned in the post here . . . but I'm not sure which I should use for a fluid change (or even top up) in my XS ? . . . I don't know what's in it at the moment or if its ever previously been changed. Cheers  |
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20th Jun 2020 12:35pm |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2126 
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dot4 and dot5.1 are both Glycol based fluids and happily mix........in theory dot5.1 may be slightly higher performing upper temp wise but not in all cases, both should be fine
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20th Jun 2020 12:39pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 
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its an easy job to do yourself,
ignition off 1/ note the fluid level which should be between min and max levels 2/ siphon out or syringe out the old fluid, until the reservoir is empty 3/ top up with new fluid to the max level 4/ bleed the brakes (watch the fluid level does not drop below min) 5/ top up the fluid 6/ bleed the brakes again until you are confident new fluid is coming out 7/ top the fluid to the original level (be cautious to not fill to the full level unless you have new pads all round). start engine test brakes, check for leaks, save yourself a lot of money, note in service book DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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20th Jun 2020 1:15pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: CĂ´te d'Azur Posts: 863 
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The brake fluid on my vehicles has always been changed as and when… probably three or four years average, certainly not never, but yearly? Jeez, I’ve got better things to do with my time and money and, as Supacat said, what next, … “changing the air at every service as well?”
I’ve never had any problem whatsoever, but “lost” the clutch on a long return journey through France (great fun at the péages, turning off the engine, paying the toll, putting the truck - TD5 at that time - into gear then spinning the engine and lurching off). The clutch fluid had never been changed (yes, I know it’s hardly feasible on those vehicles with the slave cylinder inside the bell-housing) and it literally looked just like thick coffee. Something to consider? Peter |
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20th Jun 2020 3:21pm |
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